Le Smackdown

Christian over at Le Chai puts 'le smackdown' on a wine column from the SF Chroni.  My favorite part is this section from the article:

"It was like Model-T winemaking," Jensen says of Burgundy's most famous estate, Domaine de la Romanee Conti, where he worked in 1970. "I was expecting to see fancy machines and space-age gimmicks. We punched the wine down with our feet. I saw there was no secret to Burgundy winemaking. They had limestone- derived soils, but their winemaking was very basic."

And then his response:

"This is unbelievable. I invite you te read it again. Mr. Jensen openly admits that tinkerings in the vat room or laboratory have little if anything to do with the final product. Does this lend any credence to that crazy French notion of terroir?!?"

Anti-terroirists can't have it both ways. Read his post - it's quite good.