No Jam On This Cotes

Behold, one of the wine world's most overused wine descriptors:

"Jammy fruit"

Certainly, if you've ever perused the back label, a shelf talker or any glossy wine magazine (or, gasp, even a blog or two), you are bound to have read the word 'jam/jammy' as an adjective for wine.  What exactly does this mean?  I interpret it as ascribing very-ripe fruit scents & flavors to a wine (e.g. Northstar Merlot possesses a 'developing nose of jammy black berries..').  In the age of BBW (big, beautiful wine), jammy is an apt descriptor for a great number of vino.  Thus, it is an increasingly rare pleasure to encounter wine, which offers absolutely zero jam.  Thank you Kermit.

Kermit Lynch Cotes Du Rhone 2004 ($10-$13) makes one forget that jam was ever associated with wine.  Kermie's C.d.R. is ruby red in color with scents of tart red cherry, ripe raspberry and pepper.  In the mouth, the wine is dusty (#2 grit tannins) earthy (geriatric Syrah vines) and ever-so-slightly meaty (ahh, Mourvedre).  It presents itself altogether more delicately than the 14% ABV-heft might suggest.  Tired of jammy wine?  Give Kermit's Cotes a go with something simple and homey like buffalo meat loaf.

Comments

[vanessa]

Now, the term "meaty," I like!

[Ben Bicais]

I agree that the term "jammy" is grossly overused. Too many reviews of New World reds seem to assume that if the region is warm the wine must be jammy. And this is often the case, but the term is a bit obligatory at this point. That Kermit Lynch sounds restrained and tasty, I'll look for it.