Basic Juice - the wine blog for my generation

Wanted: Listed Austrians

Dear B.Juice Reader:

Look, I know over the last several months I have let you down.  My per-week posting rate has dropped dramatically.  Forgive me.  However, as many out there know, it's incredibly draining to write nearly every day about wine (especially when one considers the fact that I live in #$%#$%ing Ut.).  However, my pledge to you is this:  I will go for quality over quantity.  The Juice may not be as freshly updated as it once was, but in the near future, you will see seriously good stuff.

Ok.  Now that you've been slathered with butter substitute, I've got a favor to ask:

Have you seen a good selection of Austrian wine on a wine list or in a retail shop?  And by good selection, I don't mean 1-2 bottles of G. Veltliner gathering dust on a rack.  I mean, you've visited a restaurant or shop that offers a gaggle (or at least 4-6 bottles) of tasty Austrian wine.

So, if you have a favored sipping or shopping spot for Oesterreichische Weine, please let me know in the comments!  Danke & Cheers.

Weekend Hits/Misses

iTunes Hits
The Long Blondes - Someone to drive you home: Edgy pop with a slightly gruff but bouncy alto lead singer.

Spoon - Ga ga ga (etc.):  Imagine if the Rolling Stones drank 100 pints from the Fountain of Youth, quit most mind altering substances and moved to Austin.

Wine Hits
Laurenz und Sophie Singing Gruner Veltliner 2005: I have yet to find inexpensive white wine that is consistently as good and character-full as cheerful chuggers from Austria.  Set aside Laurenz + Sophie's silly "singing" moniker for this wine, twist off the cap and be prepared for zip! sproing! and fresh!

iTunes Misses
Crowded House - Time on Earth:  "Don't Dream it's Over" is one of the greatest pop songs of all time.  Unfortunately, our gang of Kiwis squeezed for living space has graduated to the "Adult Alternative" category.  Zzzzzzzzzzzz.

Discover any iTunes/Wine hits recently?

The Juice Leads; The NYT Follows

It's difficult being a trendsetter. But hey, somebody has to do it. The Times, surprisingly gave Burgenland some love. Indeed, Austro Turf is a clever article. But is it as clever as They Call Themselves the Rusters? Probably.

Moric Ist Da

"Moric is Here."

Run, don't walk, to find these astoundingly unique wines by Roland Velich.

Last spring, I chatted with Roland and his brother Heinz.  My conversation and tasting of their wines wrought this little piece of wine writing:

Velich Seewinkel Wild

Near the southeastern shore of Lake Neusiedl lies a wine region called Seewinkel. As far as European winemaking locations go, it's a fairly wild place.  Seewinkel is dotted with numerous small lakes lying in alkaline depressions.  In fact, some of the lakes contain salty water, while others evaporate entirely during hot summer months.  Strong gusts of wind blow across low vegetation and wide open sky.  There are also herds of cattle dotting the landscape.  This ruminant, which has been herded in the region for centuries, looks like something along the lines of a longhorn-water buffalo hybrid.  This is the atypical landscape in which the Velich family produces some of Austria's best dry white and dessert wines.

Continue reading Velich Seewinkel Wild

Too Many Notes

editor's note: This is an article I wrote for the fine Volks at the Austria Tourism Office.  You'll be able to see it in all its glory in finer travel bureaus and airlines everywhere.  Download a PDF preview of it here.

Discover ‘Too Many Notes’ in Austria’s Wine Regions

Upon hearing one of Mozart’s operas, 18th Century Austrian Emperor Joseph II famously remarked, “Too many notes, my dear Mozart.”  While Joseph II may have initially overlooked the genius of Mozart, fortunately, he understood the artistry of Austrian wine.  This enlightened monarch decreed that wine growers were permitted to sell wine directly to consumers.  Modern Austrian winemakers honor the country’s storied wine history by producing quality wines that will strike a chord with any culinary adventurer.

The miracle of Austria is that all of its wine regions are incredibly easy to visit.  In fact, once you step off the plane in Vienna, you have already arrived in one of the world’s most unique wine regions. No other country can boast of so much viticulture and wine-culture in its capitol city. During the Middle Ages, each district of Vienna (called Bezirk in German) worked its own vineyards.  As the city grew and modernized, many vineyards were lost to concrete, asphalt, etc.  Recently, there has been a trend towards replanting vines in the city.  There are 630 wineries (that's one winery per 2,500 Viennese - my kind of town) in Vienna.  White grapes dominate these urban vineyards.  Grüner Veltliner, the quintessential Austrian grape, is common, along with Riesling and Chardonnay.  These crisp white wines are the perfect accompaniment to Wiener Schnitzel, potato salad or any manner of wurst. For those who enjoy tasting in style, visit the Hotel Rathaus Wein & Design – a hotel made just for wine lovers.  Alternatively, if you prefer surfing and sipping, take your laptop to Wein & Co., where you’ll find hundreds of Austrian wines alongside free Wi-Fi! Don’t miss this one-of-a-kind cosmopolitan wine experience.

Adulterated?

Doc Vino brings up a question near and dear to my heart as it involves Austrian wine.  Weingut Leth, along the Danube in Austria's Donauland region (not too terribly far from the Wachau), follows an unusual practice with its well-aged wines:

"Franz personally uncorks all of the older vintages as they are withdrawn from the winery's cellar. If they are bad, he discards them. If they are good, he tops them up with the current vintage, adds a shot of SO2 and recorks them.

On the one hand, this is amazing for the consumer since it brings the risk of buying an older vintage of Leth to near zero. This is as close as you get in the wine biz to a guarantee. Buyers would no doubt be willing to pay a premium for it. And Leth probably demands it since they must pour lots of wine down the drain that other wineries might be happy to sell to cnosumers who didn't know any better."

The comments on this post begin with..."it is adulteration"  But, is it?  I would imagine that the topping up adds less than 5% to each bottle's volume.  Thus, for example, a wine that is 97% 1989 and 3% 2006 is still by any definition an '89 vintage.  Or is it?

Bonus photo: Vineyards along the Danube, May 2006

Technorati Tags: austrian wine

Reminder: It's Wine Lent

A reminder to all the pious Juiceites out there.  Don't forget to drink juice of the rarer grapes this weekend, and all month long.  My initial lent sip will be.....(drum roll)

Blauer Wildbacher! 

*bam*
heh.

What's on your weekend Lent list?

Technorati Tags: austrian wine, wine lent

Bright-n-Juicy

Bright, juicy, bold statements at Winemonger Talk.

Inspired by Jameson's ode to Veltliner.

Technorati Tags: austrian wine, gruner veltliner, wine

The Best White Under $15

By Guest Author Jameson of Le Wine Blog 

2005 Schloss Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner Gobelsburger
(Imported by Terry Theise for Skurnik Wines)

OK, here's what the Wine Advocate says:

"Moosbrugger's 2005 Gruner Veltliner Gobelsburger once again represents a sensational value. Scents of flowers and hay introduce a clear, bright, juicy, melony, limey mouthful of wine that is a touch lush, a tad invigorating, carpets the palate with flowers, herb, melon, and pepper, yet ultimately, soothingly, simply thirst-quenchingly satisfies. To obtain results like this for the price demands keenly honed agricultural and artisanal skills..."

Rating: 89 points

Beau has challenged me to find an 85-90 point wine, break down the review, and give it a "yea" or "nay." I was tempted to pick from a sea of highly rated Aussie Shiraz, but then I realized I hate those wines. So since he so rarely writes, blogs, podcasts, etc. about Austrian wine, I thought I would break the seal on Basic Juice (editor's note:  Jameson's a funny guy).

First of all, this is a sensational value; it retails for about 12 bucks. I am going to say something very provocative: This is the best white wine in the world that retails for under 15 bucks.

As far as scent, I don't know what "flowers" smell like. Is this an amalgamation of all floral aromas into a catch-all term? Ok, well, if pressed I would it smells like a flowery, hay-strewn field. One that I am frolicking in.

clear, bright, juicy, melony, limey mouthful of wine

Yes, yes, yes, yes ,yes, and absolutely.

I enjoyed the phrase "carpets the palate", but I prefer "hugs the tongue."

It is super thirst-quenchingly satisfying. I am not sure, however, that "quenchingly" is a word. (I do like it, though.)

I did get a lot of dried-herb, melon, and lime on the finish. It also had a little spritz when first opened that blew off.

I could go through a couple cases a month! If you do not like this wine, I do not want to be your friend.

Verdict: Recommended

Technorati Tags: austrian wine, robert parker, wine advocate, wine review

Need More Juice?

I'm confident there is at least one person in blogland who can't get enough of Basic Juice (hopefully, other than family members).  As you know, I go coo-coo for Austrian wine.  However, I didn't want Basic Juice to become Einfacher Saft.  So, the nice folks at Winemonger Talk invited me to drop by every so often and yodel the praises of Austrian wine.  If the mood, or weather strikes you, head on over and check out the latest, Autumn Anticipation with a special appearance by some of my favorite Stephencooks creations.

Technorati Tags: austrian wine, wine

The Live Austrian Wine Adventure

In partnership with the good folks at Austria Tourism, Winemonger and Wines from Austria, Basic Juice broadcasted live from Austria's wine country during May and June.  And when I say broadcast, I mean broaaad-cast:  I published over 50 of my experiences with the unique & diverse wines of Austria.  I also served up the dish on Austrian cuisine, and posted dozens of snapshots from the countryside.  But wait, there's more.  I also interviewed a number of the unique personalities on the Austrian wine scene, such as Michael Moosbrugger, Johannes Hirsch and Eva & Guenther Mueller.  These interviews were podcast in part through the audio wizardry of Winecast.  My goal was to make you feel as if you sat in the passenger seat with me while we explored the Austrian countryside.  Read some of the highlights of the Adventure.  Oh, and visit a few of the gracious LAWA sponsors by clicking through their ads on the right.

Styria - southern Austria
Wohlmuth: Simply Elegant
Harkamp Has It
The Disciples of Glass
Manfred is Out of the Office

Burgenland - eastern Austria
Birgit's Burgund-land
Kollwentz: Full Throttle
They Call Themselves the Rusters
Seewinkel Wild
Martin's Mantras

Wachau - central Austria, along the Danube
Smaragd Samplings
Special F.X.
Behind 2 Stars

Kremstal - central Austria, along the Danube
Wine City/Wine People
Nigl's Sonoma

Kamptal - central Austria, along the Danube
Temple of Wine
Hirsch-y Kiss

Thermenregion - just south of Vienna
Baths of the Rich & Famous

Random Austrian Fun
G'spritzter: The Hi Temp Solution
It's Spanish to Me
The Flea Cooks
Melk Abbey
Kaffee Bitte!

Technorati Tags: austria, austrian wine, live austrian wine adventure

The Big Blogcast: Back to Tradition With Schloss Gobelsburg

Schloss Gobelsburg is one of the Kamptal's (1 hour west of Vienna) most prominent wine estates.  The Schloss, meaning 'castle' in German, made its first appearance in Austria's history in the year 1074 AD.  Up through the 16th century, this castle was home to 19 different royal families.  In the 18th century, the last aristocrats to own the castle instigated major renovations to the property.  The castle was torn down and rebuilt as a Renaissance manor house, and then later remodeled as a Baroque chateau.  Today, Gobelsburg still retains its Baroque beauty.

In addition to interesting ownership and architectural histories, Schloss Gobelsburg's wine producing history is equally as fascinating.  In the 16th century, Gobelsburg's vineyards were incorporated into a nearby Cistercian abbey.  The monks produced and stored wine in the Gobelsburg cellars up until 1994.  One cellarmaster, Father Bertrand Baumann, took it upon himself to honor Cistercian heritage by introducing Burgundy vines (Pinot Noir & Chardonnay) into the Gobelsburg vineyards.  In 1996 partners Willi Bründlmayer and Michael Moosbrugger leased the estate and its vineyards from the monks.  Since that time, Michael has overtaken all winemaking duties, and instituted several interesting winemaking practices.

Michael Moosbrugger takes the concept of terroir seriously.  His desire is to reflect not only vineyard conditions in the wine, but to also reflect the characteristics of Schloss Gobelsburg's location.  For example, rather than using French or American oak in Gobelsburg wine, Michael employs a local cooper to build barrels made from oak grown in nearby forests.

In my opinion, Michael's most interesting innovation, is actually a return to tradition.  As he tells it, a journalist asked him how the ancient wines of Schloss Gobelsburg may have tasted (at then end of second World War, all the wine was looted from the cellar by occupying armies).  This question planted itself on Michael's brain.  He began to investigate old winemaking practices.  He also questioned Father Bertrand, the last Cistercian winemaker at Schloss Gobelsburg.  The result of this investigation was a series of wines called, "Tradition."

Tradition wines are produced using old, labor intensive techniques.  For example, wine is naturally fermented in large oak casks without temperature control.  It is then racked (the process of removing sediment) by transferring 'clearer' wine to oak barrels every 3-4 months until the wine is completely clear.  The wine is then bottled after 18 months.  the result?  Mind-blowingly unique wines.  Overall, Tradition wines are exposed to much more oxygen during winemaking than their modern counterparts.  This process creates wines that offer unexpected scents and flavors. 

I was lucky enough to taste a few of these wines.  The 2003 Grüner Veltliner Tradition seems to be incredibly mature for its age.  In fact, I initially thought the wine was mislabled.  I asked Michael if the wine was actually from 1999 or 2000.  He smiled, and said, "No.  Tradition wines tend to taste mature at a young age."  This wine possesses scents of butterscotch and earth, where a modern Grüner Veltliner of the same age would offer up scents of spice and pear.  These wines are worth seeking out.  Currently both the Grüner Veltliner  and Riesling Tradition wines are imported by Terry Theise for Skurnik wines.

All of Gobelsburg wines are of very high quality.  Even the $15 Riesling is a treat.  Listen to my interview with winemaker Michael Moosbrugger.  We chat about the philosophy behind Tradition wines, his journey from the hotel industry to winemaking and the similarities of some Schloss Gobelsburg wines to the wines of Burgundy.  Download the interview here (mp3 - right-click -> save as to download; left-click to play on your computer).  See my Schloss Gobelsburg photo gallery here.

Technorati Tags: austria, austrian wine, kamptal, live austrian wine adventure, photos, travel, wine

The Big Blogcast: Back to Tradition With Schloss Gobelsburg

Schloss Gobelsburg is one of the Kamptal's (1 hour west of Vienna) most prominent wine estates.  The Schloss, meaning 'castle' in German, made its first appearance in Austria's history in the year 1074 AD.  Up through the 16th century, this castle was home to 19 different royal families.  In the 18th century, the last aristocrats to own the castle instigated major renovations to the property.  The castle was torn down and rebuilt as a Renaissance manor house, and then later remodeled as a Baroque chateau.  Today, Gobelsburg still retains its Baroque beauty.

In addition to interesting ownership and architectural histories, Schloss Gobelsburg's wine producing history is equally as fascinating.  In the 16th century, Gobelsburg's vineyards were incorporated into a nearby Cistercian abbey.  The monks produced and stored wine in the Gobelsburg cellars up until 1994.  One cellarmaster, Father Bertrand Baumann, took it upon himself to honor Cistercian heritage by introducing Burgundy vines (Pinot Noir & Chardonnay) into the Gobelsburg vineyards.  In 1996 partners Willi Bründlmayer and Michael Moosbrugger leased the estate and its vineyards from the monks.  Since that time, Michael has overtaken all winemaking duties, and instituted several interesting winemaking practices.

Michael Moosbrugger takes the concept of terroir seriously.  His desire is to reflect not only vineyard conditions in the wine, but to also reflect the characteristics of Schloss Gobelsburg's location.  For example, rather than using French or American oak in Gobelsburg wine, Michael employs a local cooper to build barrels made from oak grown in nearby forests.

In my opinion, Michael's most interesting innovation, is actually a return to tradition.  As he tells it, a journalist asked him how the ancient wines of Schloss Gobelsburg may have tasted (at then end of second World War, all the wine was looted from the cellar by occupying armies).  This question planted itself on Michael's brain.  He began to investigate old winemaking practices.  He also questioned Father Bertrand, the last Cistercian winemaker at Schloss Gobelsburg.  The result of this investigation was a series of wines called, "Tradition."

Tradition wines are produced using old, labor intensive techniques.  For example, wine is naturally fermented in large oak casks without temperature control.  It is then racked (the process of removing sediment) by transferring 'clearer' wine to oak barrels every 3-4 months until the wine is completely clear.  The wine is then bottled after 18 months.  the result?  Mind-blowingly unique wines.  Overall, Tradition wines are exposed to much more oxygen during winemaking than their modern counterparts.  This process creates wines that offer unexpected scents and flavors. 

I was lucky enough to taste a few of these wines.  The 2003 Grüner Veltliner Tradition seems to be incredibly mature for its age.  In fact, I initially thought the wine was mislabled.  I asked Michael if the wine was actually from 1999 or 2000.  He smiled, and said, "No.  Tradition wines tend to taste mature at a young age."  This wine possesses scents of butterscotch and earth, where a modern Grüner Veltliner of the same age would offer up scents of spice and pear.  These wines are worth seeking out.  Currently both the Grüner Veltliner  and Riesling Tradition wines are imported by Terry Theise for Skurnik wines.

All of Gobelsburg wines are of very high quality.  Even the $15 Riesling is a treat.  Listen to my interview with winemaker Michael Moosbrugger.  We chat about the philosophy behind Tradition wines, his journey from the hotel industry to winemaking and the similarities of some Schloss Gobelsburg wines to the wines of Burgundy.  Download the interview here (mp3 - right-click -> save as to download; left-click to play on your computer).  See my Schloss Gobelsburg photo gallery here.

Technorati Tags: austria, austrian wine, kamptal, live austrian wine adventure, photos, travel, wine

Sauvignon Smackdown

"A German and an Austrian walk into a wine tasting."  Nope that's not the intro to my latest wine joke; rather it describes the recent Sauvignon Blanc Smackdown at Vievinum, Austria's wine expo.  Wine merchant Jan-Erik Paulson and Austrian chef, Reinhard Gerer hosted this Sauvi-Blanc blind tasting, comprised of 53 wine journalists from 27 countries (and no, I wasn't invited *sniff*).  Is there such a thing as home court-tasting advantage?  Perhaps.  In any event, Austria flexed its white wine muscle in the 'recent vintage' ('04/'05) competition.  Five of the top 10 young S.B. were from Austria.  Andi Kollwentz (whom I visited; and interviewed) scored the top spot with his Steinmühle 2004 Sauvignon Blanc.  Two Kiwis nabbed the 2nd and 3rd spots (Palliser Estate '05 & Saint Clair Bloc 3 '05, respectively).  The rest of the results:

#4.  Pouilly Fumé La Demoiselle de Bourgeois 2004 Domaine Henri Bourgeois, France
#5.  Sauvignon blanc 2004 Andreas Tscheppe, Austria
#6.  Sauvignon blanc Martinborough 2005 Dog Point, New Zealand
#7.  Sauvignon blanc 2005 Cloudy Bay, New Zealand
#8.  Sauvignon blanc Hochgrassnitzberg 2004 Polz, Austria
#9.  Sauvignon blanc Steinbach 2005 Lachner-Tinnacher, Austria
#10.  Sauvignon blanc Sernauberg 2005 Sattlerhof, Austria

Austria also grabbed the top spot in the 'older vintages' ('00-'03) category with Neumeister's Moarfeitl '01 Sauvignon Blanc (listen to my interview with Chris Neumeister here).  I was pleasantly surprised that a few of my favorite wineries ranked in the top 10 with their mature S.Blanc: Sabathi Merveilleux '03 (#3), Tement Zieregg '00 (#5), Gross Ratscher Nussberg '00 (#7) [listen to my interview with Weingut Gross] and Sattlerhoff (bravo Willi!) Privat '00 (#10).  See the complete results here.

The take home message:  Seek out Austrian Sauvignon Blanc; it's extraordinary (at least according to my taste buds).  Two importers who specialize in Austrian Sauvignon are Winemonger & Vin DiVino.  Perhaps, I should compare New Zealand Sauvignon in greater detail.  Who's up for NZWA - the New Zealand Wine Adventure - (Enzee Waa)?  Anyone?  Anyone?..

Technorati Tags: austria, austrian wine, live austrian wine adventure, travel, sauvignon blanc

Baths of the Rich & Famous

Austria's Thermenregion (Thermal Region) is situated just south of Vienna.  As the name suggests, this region is home to numerous natural spring baths.  At one time, the Thermenregion was the summer frolic spot for those with cash in Vienna's societé.  This area, once home to soggy rich folks, is also the birthplace of sparkling wine in Austria, not to mention the home to a mysterious red grape variety.  There is more history here than one can shake a bottle at...

• In 1770, the Earl of Fries (whom I picture looking something like Mayor McCheese) developed large vineyards in this area for the purpose of selling red wine to customers in Vienna

• In the 18th century, Emperor Joseph II ruled that most anyone could open wine taverns (called Heuriger in German).  A vibrant wine-tavern culture sprung up in the Thermenregion after this imperial decree

• Robert Schlumberger, director of Ruinart Champagne, yearned to produce bubbly in Austria.  Why? He fell in love with a Viennese woman, whose mother forbade her to move back to france with bubbly Bob.  Schlumberger settled into Bad Vöslau, a town in the Thermenregion, and began producing Champagne-method-made wine

• Blauer Portugieser is the 'bulk' red wine grape of the Thermenregion.  It's origins are murky.  Two wine industry people I spoke with in Austria indicated that a Graff (royal) was said to have brought this variety from somewhere in France.  However, neither source knows why it carries the "Portuguese" moniker.  Wine from this grape is best sampled in a Heuriger

• Two unique white wine varieites, Zierfandler (spicy, lively) and Rotgipfler (sort of Gewurz-like, slightly flabby) are grown here

G'sprtizter: The Hi Temp Solution

Towards the end of my Austrian Adventure, the Centigrade poked it's head over 30 a number of times.  Add a little Luftfeuchtigkeit (humidity) to this temperature, and I become a bipedal sweat waterfall.  My goal under such climatic conditions is to seek shade, air movement and a cool beverage.  Many of Austria's young white wines hit the spot.  However, I quickly realized, in my soggy state, that I was gulping rather than sipping.  At $6-$7 per fill-up, a glass of wine isn't the ideal solution to lower body temp & refresh.  What to do?  One day at an outdoor cafe, I decided to take a cue from my fellow refreshment seekers.  Many of them were drinking G'spritzters.  A G'spritzter is simply wine (white or red) mixed with cold club soda.  I was hesitant to take the G'spritzter G'plunge.  I mean, once we begin adulterating wine, aren't we just a stone's throw from that slippery slope called, "Arbor Mist?"  But heat makes people do crazy things, so I relented an ordered up a large white wine G'spritzter. 

Ahhhh.  Say hello to the perfect high temperature beverage solution.  A typical G'spritzter is about 10-20% wine with 80-90% club soda.  This concoction is low in calories (go ahead and chug) and low in alcohol (you'll be able to rehydrate).  Think of it as a wine-based long drink.  Of course, the mixing wine should be young, fruity and cheap (note: cheap ≠ plonk/bad wine).  Now, before you poopoo the idea of a fizzy, wine-based drink, give it a try. 

Your assignment this weekend is to make your own G'spritzter.  For white wine, I recommend Berger Grüner Veltliner 2004 ($12, 1 litre bottle) or Saint M Riesling 2004 ($10).  For a red G'sprtizter, seek out red wine with soft tannins and fruity flavor.  Austria's very own Zweigelt is perfect.  If you prefer to stay domestic, try Renwood's Barbera.  Now, if you want to get really crazy, try a rosé G'spritzter (something I never saw on an Austrian drink menu).  As an incentive, for Basic Juice readers to sample this sprtizy concoction, I'm asking for an anglicized name.  So, if you drink one this weekend, think up a more pronounceable name.  If you happen to submit the most creative, catchy name, I'll post your name in lights on Basic Juice! 

As if you needed an incentive to drink more.

The G'spritzter is a popular drink in Austrian bars & restaurants.  G'ive it a g'try.

Technorati Tags: austria, summer wine, wine

Hirsch-y Kiss

Remember the first time you kissed that special someone and felt the kerwang! of twitterpation?  That's how I feel about Hirsch wines from Austria's Kamptal.

Perhaps I am waxing a bit poetic (what?  me poetic?), however I would describe the Hirsch wine style as "compellingly light & juicy."  There is just enough juicy flavor in these wines to make your palate blush, but the alcohol content is low enough to entice second, third and fourth sips.  These wines all chime in at 13% alcohol or lower.  However, they offer ripe flavors, instead of nearly-ripe flavors often present in light white wine (think a granny smith apple vs. a ripe Gala apple).   These wines are imported in the US by Skurnik.  Two to try:

Smaragd Samplings

Smaragd wines from Austria's Wachau region are...

"the richest and most precious category of Wachau wines. These wines... grow only in the sunniest vineyards, where lizards feel especially comfortable. On bright and sunny days you’ll find them next to the vines indulging in a sun-bath. They thus became the symbol for Wachau wines with a fully accomplished physiological maturity. These especially precious wines, with an alcohol content starting at 12.5% by volume, ferment in stainless steel tanks to their natural end and are always dry wines. The bottles have to be closed with at least 49mm- long natural corks, marked by the brand of the year of harvest.  Even after 25 and more years of correct storage, these wines will still be a pleasure to drink. Wines of the Smaragd category cannot be sold before May 1 following the harvest. Smaragd wines represent the region’s speciality and are thus subject to severe control measures"

this Smaragd lizard is wishing the %$^^#$ing sun would shine already!

I've only spent a couple days in the Wachau.  However, two things have already become clear:

1) Most native Austrian wine enthusiasts prefer the fresher style categories of Riesling & Grüner Veltiner  (Steinfeder [less than 11% alcohol] or Federspiel [between 11.5-12.5% alcohol]), that are generally fresh, crisp and fruity.
2) The Smaragd category, which describes wines that are fuller-bodied, smoothly-textured and luxuriously flavored (greater than 12.5% alcohol) , is a perfect fit for the hedonistic palate of many American wine lovers.

I attempted to refrain from falling for the opulent, slightly sticky Smaragd Rieslings and Grüner Veltliners.  Yet, as I type this, I am head over heels in love with the Högl "Ried Schon" Smaragd Gruner Veltiner I'm sipping.  Alas, my palate has a hedonistic side.

A sampling, in no particular order, of 4 Smaragd wines I've learned to appreciate during my brief time in the Wachau:

Aufwiederschauen

Aufwiederschauen!

Kollwentz: Full Throttle

Andi Kollwentz is a NASCAR dad. At least that was my initial thought as I shook his hand. He was decked out in Blades shades, black denim; and sported a soul patch. Andi, a second generation winemaker, offered me a tour of a few of the family's vineyard sites in his old mint-cream Mercedes diesel sedan. As we bounced over the dirt road (while I worried the car was going to drop an oil pan, or break an axle), my impression of him as Nascar enthusiast vanished. He showed me how he meticulously prunes and trains each vine. I also noticed Andi alternates between tilled soil and grass covered soil on either side of his plants. He mentioned that this was an attempt to regulate how much water is collected by the vines' roots.

Andi's pride and joy is his Dürr vineyard site. It is tucked into the middle of a hilltop forest. To enter the vineyard, one must duck through a vegetation-choked path. The view is stunning. I could see all of Lake Neusiedl, and into Hungary. Andi has just begun producing Pinot Noir from this site. From the 2004 vintage, he produced only 1,000 bottles or so. This wine is ohmygoodness good. As I sniffed and sipped the wine, I closed my eyes and was transported to Burgundy. It is classic Pinot Noir. Delicately perfumed with earth, mint and cherry. In the mouth, Dürr Pinot Noir tickles with bracing acidity, much like a white wine, but then finishes with rich cocoa notes and velvety tannins. I can picture a line forming already for this wine.

The Kollwentz winery also produces Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc (rare for this part of Austria), Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt, a few red cuvees and two stunning dessert wines - an eiswein from Welschriesling and TBA from Scheurebe. My favorite white wine was the "Gloria" Chardonnay 2004. I found this wine to be a fantastic mix of barrique-influenced richness and raw minerality. Honestly, it is one of the best Chardonnays I have tasted in recent memory. Overall, every single Kollwentz wine I sampled was of the highest quality. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend each and every one of these wines. Kollwentz wine is imported to the U.S. by Vin DiVino.

Stay tuned for my interview with Andi Kollwentz. We discuss his winemaking philosophy, interest in biodynamic viticulture and learn the history of Cabernet Sauvignon in Burgenland - which was first planted by Andi's father, Anton.

See my Kollwentz photo gallery here.

Technorati Tags: austria, austrian wine, burgenland, live austrian wine adventure, travel

Harkamp Has It

Hannes and Petra Harkamp are the kind of people you immediately feel at home with. They could easily become your favorite neighbors or best friends. The Harkamps possess a joy for life and down-to-earth attitude that made me simply want to hang out with them for the afternoon. Had the wine not been stellar, it would have been incidental. However, Harkamp wines are stellar, and they quickly became the focus of my attention after our playful photo session atop one of the Harkamps' steeply sloped vineyards (see the photos here)

I'm aware this sounds trite, but I got the feeling that Harkamp wine is honestly made and hiding nothing.  Wild yeasts are used; along with touches of malolactic fermentation . In fact when talking about his winemaking philosophy, Hannes becomes earnest and explains his credo - My wine is the mirror of my soul. This is printed on every cork - . He refers to himself as Weinbauer (grape farmer) vs. Winzer (winemaker). Hannes projects an honesty when speaking about his wine.

The Harkamp "Style" wines are focused on fruit. These wines are aged in large neutral wooden casks. The result is indeed a wine with fruit, but not one that is overly fruity. Harkamp's Weissburgunder (AKA Pinot Blanc) Steil (from steep vineyards) is replete with scents of apple and pear, along with very subtle notes of caramel and cream. The wine offers a smooth texture, along with, what I am coming to discover, south Styria's reliable acidity. The Sauvignon Blanc "Oberburgstall" is made from vines that grow right outside Harkamp's tasting room. It is, as Hannes describes it, a "double D" wine - ripe, rich and viscous in the mouth. This wine also possesses a distinct white pepper quality, which I have not encountered in other Sauvignon Blancs. A unique wine, indeed.

Always trust a winemaker in Lederhosen

Harkamp wines are imported into the USA by Weygandt-Metzler of Pennsylvania. You can contact them to locate Harkamp wines in your neck of the woods. Of course, you can always visit the Harkamps in their lovely winery/B&B - they'd be happy to have you.

See my Harkamp photo gallery here.

Not Done Yet

LAWA is not quite finished yet.  This past week, my Sweets & I traveled to....

Istria (Croatia, Adriatic Sea)

Venice (Italy, P. San Marco)

Slovenia (Julian Alps)

Klagenfurt (Carinthia, Austria)

and back to Slovenia (Bled)

This week I'll be featuring Live Austrian Wine Adventure Highlights.  Enjoy the memories.

Technorati Tags: austria, live austrian wine adventure, photos, travel

What I learned..

What I learned on my Live Austrian Wine Adventure

At the moment, I'm a bit too tuckered to wax all eloquent & philosophical about Austria's wines.  However, a few things that I plan to noodle over in the next few days are:

• Terroir is detectable in the vast majority of Austrian wine
• Austrian winemaking still seems to be evolving; with new technology & centuries' old traditions.  Sometimes the two approaches are compatible, sometimes not
• There is much to enjoy about wine with less than 13% alcohol
• There is much to enjoy about wine with less than 12.5% alcohol
• Don't sleep on Austria's red wine - particularly well-crafted St. Laurent & Blaufränksich
• Where in the world did the red grape, Blauer Portugieser come from?
• What percentage of 'average' US wine consumers will shell out $20+ for high quality Austrian wine?
• Grüner Veltliner has incredible aging potential - I was lucky enough to sample some dating back to 1944.  A few of these wines still tasted very, very young.  What's this grape's secret?

Additionally, there are still stories to tell about my time in the Thermenregion, visits to top wineries such as Schloss Gobelsburg & Willi Bründlmayer and sampling of several Viennese wines.  For now, have a look at a few of the LAWA photo galleries, read one of the 40+ posts I've written whilst tear-assing across the countryside in my BMW "1" series, or listen to the interviews mix'd up righteously by Winecast.

More soon.  I sure do love the 'old hotness' - but excuse me for a day or two while I enjoy the 'new hotness'!

Technorati Tags: austria, austrian wine, live austrian wine adventure, photos, travel, vienna, wine

It's Spanish to Me

The Lipizzaner horses are one of Vienna's most well-known attractions.  The horses are part of the Spanish riding school; begun by the Habsburg family to teach their lucky kids classic equestrian skills.  The Habsburg family had branches in both Spain and Austria - thus the Spanish horses in Vienna.  In fact a common vernacular phrase in German (es kommt mir Spanisch vor) hearkens back to the time when Austrians overheard visiting Habsburgers speaking in Spanish (which would have sounded extremely foreign to many Austrians at the time) and were unable to understand.  The phrase can be translated as, "it's Spanish to me."  It's analogous to the phrase, "it's all Greek to me."

Walking to Vievinum, I met the horses going into the arena for morning exercises.

No photos please

Technorati Tags: austria, live austrian wine adventure, vienna

Come With Me

Come along with me (gallery) on a tour of Vienna on the first sunny day in a couple weeks.  And, of course, today was the first day of Vievinum, the Austrian wine expo.  It's taking place in a humble little exhibition center called the Imperial Palace.  Thanks to my extremely knowledgeable guide, Mr. Wili Fuchs.  He took me through several hundred years' worth of history in the Imperial Burial Vault.

Technorati Tags: architecture, austria, austrian wine, coffee, live austrian wine adventure, photos, travel, vienna, wine

Winner, Best Town Name

Sooß (pron Zohh-ss), a town in Austria's Thermenregion (home of the mysterious grape variety Blauer Portugieser) is this year's winner of the Basic Juice Live Austrian Wine Adventure award for coolest-looking & most-fun-to-pronounce town name.  It sort of reminds me of "wOOt!"

Technorati Tags: live austrian wine adventure, travel

Things To Do in Vienna #742

Watching these two jam was a special, Viennese treat

Vienna is such a historic, culture-rich city, that I found myself a bit overwhelmed with Friday night options.  So I took a walk.  I wandered through the Stadtpark (city park) and noticed a blue neon sign with the words, "Two Siberians," on the placard.  The neo-jazz lover in me found these words familiar.  I walked towards the sign and entered Birdland, one of Vienna's famous jazz clubs.  After sitting down, I was duly blown away by the electric guitar - electric violin duo comprised of, well, two Siberians: Yuri Matveyev (guitar) and Artyom Yakushenko (violin).  Those two played a set of electrified music with influences ranging from jazz and blues to folk and hard rock.  Have a listen to these short sound clips I recorded with my handy-dandy digital recorder at the concert (mp3 format)

• Sample 1 (the crazy Hendrix-Van Halen-like distortion is actually the violin)
• Sample 2
• Sample 3

You can read more about them here.  The duo released an album in 2003, Out of Nowhere.  Tracks from the album can be purchased for download on AllOfMP3.  Check it out.
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Technorati Tags: austria, live austrian wine adventure, music, travel