Basic Juice - the wine blog for my generation

Mondeuse!

You say, I should drink some sans souffre wine?  Well my VdP Mondeuse may not be a beaujo Cru, but it was au naturel, intensely zippy and tasted like a basket-full-o-forest berries.

And of course, one must accompany such a low maintenance wine with some natural, simply prepared lamb + mashed potatoes & roasted garlic or roasted duck and potatoes au gratin.

The wine: Cote Pelee Mondeuse Vin de Pays d'Allobrogie 2004 by Jean-Yves Peron.

The food:
Autour d’ un Verre

Organic, delicious and inexpensive. A must stop for any wine lover curious about natural wines.
21, rue de Trévise, Paris 9
Tel: 01 48 24 43 74
Metro Stop: Cadet
Lunch: 12:30 to 15:00 Dinner: 20:00 to 22:30 (except Monday). Closed Sunday.
-- Thanks Steve for the recommendation!
More information en Francais here.

Additional, random gay Paree photos

Folies Bergere

Drive-by Eiffel

Mmmm AOKI.

Things to do in Paris when you're in Louvre

Attend a show.

Discover slightly shocking facts about French cuisine

Admire mundane details in an urban park

Visit the man with the original complex

Ponder Le Penseur

Sip wine, eat

Sip wine, eat tartare

Drink a little more

Brave a crowd, meet some old folks

Drink, eat more

Garcon! A Little Help.

Attention Francophiles and those who love them: 

I need a little help on the Paris gastronomie front.  Earn some good karma and share a few Parisian dining secrets avec moi.  Where are your favorite places to dine in the city 'o lights and feel all Parisian and whatnot?  Merci!

(Almost)Love at First Sight

Have you ever had a wine visually knock your socks/stockings/l'eggs off? 

It's rare that the mere sight of vino hanging out in a clear glass/crystal tub causes oenoinfatuation.  Sure, bubbly looks enticing and can capture one's imagination.  But still wine?  It typically doesn't dazzle the visual senses.

Until now.  I poured a glass of Domaine du Gros Nore Bandol Rose and was immediately mesmerized.  This pink wine, isn't really pink.  It's a lovely copper-salmon-caramel color.  How does wine evolve such a sublime color?  Who wouldn't love it?

Alas, my visual affair with Domaine du Gros was short lived.  Gros Nore is exceedingly subtle on the scent front.  Fine tune your sniffer, and you'll uncover earthy-herby aromas along with a bit o' berry.  In the mouth, G.N. is also restrained.  It's hefty @ around 15% alcohol, but still manages to maintain a zesty dimension.  Sad to say, the flavors are buried underneath the wine's rather stout body.  Overall, the wine is pleasant, but at nearly $20, I might find it difficult to spring for a second time.  Of course, that visual peepshow of ultra-unique color is worth at least one trip to the wine shop.  Give it a try, or at least, a gander.

The Skinny: Domaine du Gros Nore Bandol Rose 2005 ($19-$20)

• From the oft overlooked Southern France Appellation of Bandol.
• A blend of Mourvedre, Cinsault & Grenache.
• Imported by Kermit Lynch
• Lest you overwhelm its delicate flavors, serve this wine with light/subtle fare such as grilled chicken breast or pasta prima vera.

Memo to Marquis

Memo

To: Rémy Pannier 

From: Basic Juice 

cc:  Growers (from the 500 of you viticulturing in 63 different appellations) who contribute grapeage to Marquis de la Tour's Rosé Sparkling Wine 

Date: 22 Jun 07

Re: Future branding/marketing of Marquis de la Tour Rosé (NV, $9) sparkling wine

____________________________________________

Dear Sirs/Madames:

Seeing as how Rémy Pannier is the Loire Valley's largest wine producer, I'm sure your company employs a number of smart, aspiring marketing wizkidz.  No doubt, one of them has already pitched the idea of rebranding Marquis de la Tour bubbly in order to make it more appealing to the US consumer.  I can picture the pitch in my mind....."look, we'll use those Budweiser frogs.  And instead of 'bud-weis-err' the amphibs can ribbit, "De-La-Tour!" 

Allow me to be the first to nip the aforementioned idea in the proverbial bud.  I'm sure the folks at Arrogant Frog are joyed to the max with their decision to leap into cute, crittery labeling.  However, your A+-value-priced, sparkling Rosé needs no such gimmicky hoo-ha.  I am happy to recommend a couple label modifications, free of charge:

1. On the front label, include these two succinct, highly descriptive adjectives in large, bold font (in English, as I and my fellow citizens no parlay much francais, if you catch my drift): DRY, SPARKLING WINE
2. On the back label, feel free to indulge the creativity of your marketeers.  Let them craft a nifty taste description (e.g. Marquis de la Tour Rosé is a lovely salmon-colored bubbly full of straw- and rasp-berry scents.  De la Tour's taste is divine with creamy texture, apple cider notes and a pleasant floral-berry finish) or pairing suggestions (e.g. Marquis de la Tour is the perfect accompaniment to summertime produce-enhanced dishes such as grilled tomato, basil and goat cheese sandwiches or lamb chops & farm fresh veggies)

I guarantee that five years down the road, you won't look back in shame at a label sporting pink frogs gussied up to look like something of a cross between Zoro and the Scarlet Pimpernel.  Rather, team Marquis will stand tall with pride at its simple, classy and info-rich label.  Heed me now; thank me later.

Technorati Tags: france, french wine, sparkling wine

Alsatian Simplification

In the early days of my budding wine fascination, I approached the 'French aisle' in a wine shop.  After failing miserably to decipher the labels from several bottles, I felt frustrated and downright dim.  I migrated back towards the more accessible labels of Australia, South Africa and California.  For some time thereafter, I hung with English-labeled wine.

Would that I had begun my French foray with Alsace. The Alsace label, while still French, is straightforward.  You see, Alsatian regulations permit wine to be labeled by grape variety.  So even if you have no idea what 'mis en bouteille par..' means, you can still identify wine as being Riesling or Gewurztraminer (no 'ü' in Alsace).  Most Alsatian wine is made from Riesling, Gewurz, Pinot Gris (AKA Tokay Pinot Gris, AKA Pinot Grigio), Muscat (AKA Muscat d'Alsace) or Pinot Blanc.

For non-French speakers and wine newbies, Alsace is a good place to begin French wine exploration.  What you read is what you get.  Except when you don't.  Occasionally, the grape's name is missing from the label.  In its place, you may encounter the term, 'Edelzwicker' (~ noble-blend).  This term is indicative of wine comprised of a blend of Alsace's varieties (e.g. Riesling, Gewurz, Pinot Gris, etc.).  Many of these blended wines are inexpensive introductions to the flavors of Alsace.  Recently, I've noticed a that some producers are offering such blends in the $10-$15 range.  A few are scrapping the Edelzwicker moniker and replacing it with a branded name.  Two examples are Pierre Sparr's "Alsace One" and Zind-Humbrecht's "Zind."

Then there are the minimalist folks at Kuentz-Bas.  K-B's Edelzwicker offering is nameless - sort of.  The bottle is simply labeled, "Alsace."  Confusing?  Perhaps.  However for around ten dollars, 'Alsace' from Alsace introduces you to the surprisingly exotic style of Alsatian wine.

The Skinny
Kuentz-Bas Alsace 2005 ($9-$12) [imported by Kermit Lynch]

• Light straw-yellow in color
• Scents of lychee/litchi/lytchi, lemon, honey and grape (! - I suspect the grapeyness comes from Muscat)
• This wine behaved quite differently in the mouth over the course of two evenings: Night 1 - a rich, almost sticky mouthfeel with slightly sweet, or seemingly sweet flavors of honey, mandarin orange and ripe pear; Night 2 - the stickyness faded and I was struck by a greater balance of richness and crispness.  For the record, I prefer night #2's performance

Kuentz-Bas is an ideal candidate for a wine solo on Friday afternoon.  It also would be fine as a duet with sweet & sour pork, honey glazed chicken or a green salad & fresh fruit.

Rivertrivia + Vacqueyras

Q:  What European river originates from a glacier, flows North-South through Switzerland and France, and empties into the Mediterranean Sea?

A: The Rhône River

More Rivertrivia:

The word "Rhône" comes from Latin Rhodanus, which in turn comes, via the Greeks, from  the Celtic word Rodo ("that which runs").  Thanks to the runnin, carvin Rhône we have the French valley of the same name.  The Rhône Valley inspired artists and winemakers. 

Thanks to Rhône vintners, we have a whole gaggle of intriguing wine appellations.  The Northern Rhone is dominated by Syrah for reds and Viognier for white wine.  However, blending a little Viognier into a red isn't uncommon (see: Cote-Rotie).  The Southern portion of the valley sees a more diverse set of red grapes (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Carignane, Cinsault) and white grapes (Clairette, Picpoul, Bourboulenc, Rousanne, Marsanne).

How about a round of taste-one-Rhone-appellation-per-week?

This week's appellation is Vacqueyras.  Vacqueyras is a village in the southern Rhone.  It began life in 1937 as a Cotes du Rhone.  Then in 1990 it could add its little old name to the bottle, thus becoming a Cotes du Rhone Villages.  Finally in 1995 it was awarded the equivalent of a Rhone Cru.  Vacqueyras sets itself apart from other Rhonies with its telltale fullness and smoothness.

Try Perrin's 'Les Christins' 2004 Vacqueyras or, go for a cedarsawdust + cherry liqueur combo with Domaine La Garrigue 2004 Vacqueyras (~$20).

Syrah, Quit Your Whining

Syrah, you're in quite the whiny mood.  On one hand, I empathize with you.  Indeed, it is certainly frustrating to be overshadowed by an overly chatty sibling.  But at least your sibling has a different name.  Yes, I know, "Shiraz," is very similar to "Syrah."  On the other hand, my new world counterpart carries the exact same name as I.  You at least have the benefit of slightly different letters.  I, Grenache, am constantly overshadowed by "Grenache."

Sadly, most Grenache lovers enjoy my simpleton sibling's style.  That easy-going, fruity character is easy to like.  But it's also easy to forget.  Few wine drinkers are even aware of my classic, more earthy expression.  Hey!, Hi-C-drinking Grenache lovers.  Do you know I can do meat, dried rosemary, tart cherry and anise?  Yup, I got mad depth as the kids say.  I'm not asking you to give up the happy-happy Grenache, rather, I implore you to get serious about your Grenache for once.  I promise you won't regret it.

Perrin Vacqueyras 'Les Christins' 2004 ($20) - With a little help from some Syrah (25% in the blend), this 75%-Grenache wine reveals an entirely new dimension for this easy-to-overlook grape.  Perrins "V" (I couldn't possible type that word again) is replete with meaty, herby scents accented with tangy cherry notes.  The wine is hefty by Rhone Valley standards.  However, by Aussie/Nuevo-Spain/Cali/Washington standards, it is svelte.  In the mouth V is rich, with a slightly raspy, tannic kick.  Try it with something roasted like wabbit or chicken.

Remember me?

Hello there.  Remember me?  I was once considered a star in the wine world.  I could wow you with fresh redcurrant and raspberry scents, whilst I simultaneously worked the black pepper mill and opened a jar of potpourri.  I always carried a square of subtly-rough sandpaper in one hand and my silk vest kerchief in the other.  In short, I was everything you could ever possible want in a glass of red wine.

Alas, my loudmouth cousin has been stealing the spotlight of late.  He's a likable bloke; but let's just say he doesn't do nuance (nor does he know how to make pleasant dinner conversation).  At every party, he unscrews the berry preserves, whips out the pepper shaker and then performs this annoying party trick, which involves asphalt.  It's beyond me, but people seem to like it.

Honestly, though - isn't it time to return to the original; a classic?  Call me sometime..

E. Guigal Crozes-Hermitage 2003 ($20-$30) - 100% Syrah (not Shiraz - technically the same grape, but stylistically, a completely different wine), which by the way, seems like something else entirely when compared to Shiraz.  From the Northern Rhone Valley.  Deep ruby red in color with a wide, rusty rim.  This C-H is entirely elegant with scents of just-ripe red raspberry, a dash of black pepper and a touch of purple flowers (no idea what kind, but in my mind these blossoms be purple).  Crisp, silky and subtle in the mouth.  The perfect wine with hearty risotto or petit filet.

How Do You Like It?

Greetings and happy greeting card industry-generated-remember the chocolate hearts-and-roses day.  Hopefully you and your beloved will enjoy an evening of passion in Eros' honor.

The question is, how do you like your lovin'?  Are you a squeaky clean, polite kanoodler, or  nasty, no-holds-barred kind of Don/Maria Juan?

For those who like it clean..

Pascal Jolivet 'Attitude' Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($15) - Despite using the cred-enhancing term, "Attitude," Jolivet's Sauvi is the epitome of E. Post politeness (and, as an added bonus, the wine is classified as Vin de Pays du Jardin de la France.  Basically this means Mssr. Jolivet can scrawl the grape variety's name on the label, thus making it tres easy for customers to understand what kind of wine they are getting).  This Sauvignon Blanc is pale yellow-gold with hints of meadow green hues.  It pleasantly presents itself with scents of lime, grassy-field-freshness and a titch of gooseberry.  In the mouth, The 'Tude, proves just how even-handed Sauvignon Blanc can be.  It tingles with fresh acidity, then turns slightly smooth and citrusy on the finish.  Put on your blue blazer/cable knit & pearls, and enjoy this wine with a classic Caesar or Cobb salad.  Then close your eyes tightly and smooch your snookums/teddy bear/precious.

For those who like it naughty..

Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2000 ($40 [375ml]) - Pull out your whips, chains, ass-chaps, fishnets, etc. before you enjoy this decidedly 'dirty' wine.  Classico is a, uh, grape-threesome, of Corvina (75%), Rondinella (20%) and Molinara (5%).  The result of some compressed aging in its half-bottle home is a dusty-red wine with scents of ruby Port, dates, violets and cedar-funk (i.e. damp/burned/chopped wood).    In the mouth, this Valpolicella from Italy's Northeast is surprisingly agile - with some cripsness, a mix of dried & fresh berry flavor and slightly chewy finish, courtesy softened up tannins.  Sample it with some nastyfunk playing in the background and git bizee.

Happy St. V.!  Enjoy the convo candy hearts.

Air Banding/Rerun Wine

Have you ever air band-ed?  If your answer is 'no', I shall either A) call you a liar or B) an anti-music cretin.  For those of us with little-to-no musical talent air banding/lip synching is one of life's guilty pleasures.

Who hasn't used the shower head as a mic stand-in and wailed out Highway to Hell while the Pert-Plus worked it's magic?  Perhaps you're an air guitar virtuoso who enjoys spinning around whilst doing your best Eddie V.H. Eruption axing.  We're getting to wine, I promise.  The point is that air banding is fun and highly contagious (see 'exhibit A' [click to play] below)

The problem with being an OC (that's obsessive compulsive not the OC) wine dissector/analyst is that nearly every glass of wine I sip ends up being broken down by color, scent, flavor and texture.  It's nearly impossible for to drink wine and just enjoy wine for wine's sake.  So sad.  One solution to this quandary is to take a wine, which I know well.  My personal favorite in this wine rerun category is Beaujolais Cru.  BeauJo Cru is rarely disappointing and nearly always delivers the berry-brambly flavor combo (which I can finally resist analyzing).

Like air banding...Actually, this is nothing like air banding - unless you consider both air banding and rerun wine as two of life's simple pleasures.  Then yes, air banding and rerun wine are exactly alike.

My favorite rerun BeauJo Cru of the moment is Morgon. Try G. DuBoeuf's Morgon 'Jan Descombes' 2005 ($10).  It delivers great Gamay character and I don't feel compelled to dissect it.  Ok, Ok, I'll dissect a little - I have discovered a nifty Beaujolais trick:  Chill it down, open the bottle and let the wine air out for about an hour or so.  You'll get even more berryliciousness.

What song do you air band to?  Do you have a fave rerun wine?

Yule, Wassail, Figgy Pudding & Jammy Beau

Yule
The term yule has its roots in the winter Solstice festivals of Northern Europe.  Jol (pronounced 'Jule' or 'Yule') was a feast held to honor the Norse god Odin - god of intoxication and ecstasy (sounds like a swingin immortal).  From yule par-tays, sprang the tradition of the yule log.  The Norsefolk, in their over-imbibed state, needed to keep the hearth a-burnin all night long.  The longest burning logs were referred to as yule logs.  In the former Yugoslavia, folks partook in some interesting log-related activities:

"..the Yule Log was cut just before dawn on Christmas Eve and carried into the house at twilight. The wood itself was decorated with flowers, colored silks and gold, and then doused with wine and an offering of grain. In the area of France known as Provence, families would go together to cut the Yule Log, singing as they went along. These songs asked for blessings to be bestowed upon their crops and their flocks."

Wassail
More fun from the Northern Europeans. Wassail crept south and became famous in Olde England.  This winter drink was usually a combo of beer, sugar, nutmeg, cinnamon and ginger.  Often, it was topped with bread, which served as wassail sops.

Figgy Pudding
How many of us annoyed our neighbors by demanding figgy pudding; without having any idea what the stuff was?  Learn what it is via oral dissection (i.e. try this recipe).

Jammy Beau
Indeed, the adjective 'jammy' is overused.  However, Carquelin, a Beaujolais Cru by Big George, is a bottle-full of fresh blackberry jam just like your mama used to make.  This BeauJoCru is the perfect midweek pick-me-up.  There are also wonderful scents of sweet spice and juicy, chewy tannins.  Try it with pasta and marinara, or even the Christmas ham.  The details: Carquelin Moulin a Vent 2005 ($14-$18; imported by WJ Deutsch & Sons)

What's in your cup/glass/bowl this holiday season?

No Jam On This Cotes

Behold, one of the wine world's most overused wine descriptors:

"Jammy fruit"

Certainly, if you've ever perused the back label, a shelf talker or any glossy wine magazine (or, gasp, even a blog or two), you are bound to have read the word 'jam/jammy' as an adjective for wine.  What exactly does this mean?  I interpret it as ascribing very-ripe fruit scents & flavors to a wine (e.g. Northstar Merlot possesses a 'developing nose of jammy black berries..').  In the age of BBW (big, beautiful wine), jammy is an apt descriptor for a great number of vino.  Thus, it is an increasingly rare pleasure to encounter wine, which offers absolutely zero jam.  Thank you Kermit.

Kermit Lynch Cotes Du Rhone 2004 ($10-$13) makes one forget that jam was ever associated with wine.  Kermie's C.d.R. is ruby red in color with scents of tart red cherry, ripe raspberry and pepper.  In the mouth, the wine is dusty (#2 grit tannins) earthy (geriatric Syrah vines) and ever-so-slightly meaty (ahh, Mourvedre).  It presents itself altogether more delicately than the 14% ABV-heft might suggest.  Tired of jammy wine?  Give Kermit's Cotes a go with something simple and homey like buffalo meat loaf.

MT: 5 Random Folk + Pierre's Reserve

5 Random Folk Tunes for Music Tuesday

1. Tiny Idyll - Jolie Holland
2. Decatur, or, Round of Applause for Your Step-Mother! - Sufjan Stevens
3. Diamond Shoes - Tift Merritt
4. Rainsquall - Richard Buckner
5. One Life Away - M. Ward

+ Pierre's Reserve

For $11-$12 one can't expect too much.  However, when a winery displays sizable cajones and/or marketing hoo-ha, and adds, "Reserve," to the label - well, let's just say my expectations hath been raised.  Pierre Sparr Reserve Gewurztraminer 2004 (imported by WJ Deutsch & sons) met my slightly higher expectations via a rarely used device in modern winemaking - a little something called restraint.  Most bargain-bin Gewurztraminer (no 'ü' in Alsace)  is one dimensional.  Some low rent G'traminer offers only one big whiff of lychee (litchi/lychi).  Others simply steamroll the palate with XL-alcohol or copious quantities of residual sugar.  However, Pierre's reserve brought a little complexity and restraint to the table.  This wine is replete with scents of lychee, along with ripe peach and Mandarin orange.  In the mouth, Sparr's Gewurz is indeed hefty (as is almost always the case with Gewurztraminer).  Yet the wine didn't overpower any of the food paired to it - definitely a sign of alcohol & sugar restraint.  Try Pierre's reserve with salmon sashimi, Asian-spiced spare ribs, or even edamame.

Superieur Valu

Most of us don't bid on Bordeaux futures.  Most of us don't regularly sip Bordeaux from top Chateaux.  And most of us wouldn't consider ourselves Bordeaux experts because of the aforementioned factors.  As a result, most of us (AKA average wine drinkers) usually avoid wading too deeply into the Cabernet/Merlot waters of this end of France's wine pool.  Rather than tiptoe-ing around Bordeaux, how about diving in with the superieur assistance?

The Bordeaux Superieur appellation consists of mostly humble, straightforward wine.  However, far from generic wine, many B-Superieur offer tasty Bordeaux character at even tastier prices.  Do you need proof of this Superieur phenomenon?  Make Chateau Recougne 'exhibit A' in your examination of Bordeaux Superieur.

The Skinny

Chateau Recougne Bordeaux Superieur 2003 ($13)

• 13% abv, imported by Ex-Cellars Wine Agencies, blend of 75% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc
• A deep indigo wine fading to ruby, with a pink rim.
• Intense scents of blackcurrant, clove spice and cedar wood; with hints of licorice and birch beer.
• Chateau Recougne jumps on the palate with chewy tannins and spicy flavors.  The wine then pulls back a bit to reveal a ripe cherry flavor, followed by a long, if slightly underwhelming, finish.
• Verdict: This is the perfect wine with which to introduce yourself & others to Bordeaux terroir.  Recommended
• Give it a try with pasta in meat sauce, pot roast or mushroom risotto.

PS - bonus points go to anyone who knows how to pronounce, "Recougne."

Technorati Tags: bordeaux, french wine, wine

Music Tuesday: Random 10 + 1

Your music Tuesday random 10 from the Basic Juice iPod:

1. 3 Legged Animals - Califone
2. Smells Like Teen Spirit - The Bad Plus
3. I Cry Alone - The Black Keys
4. I Lied - Telefon Tel Aviv
5. Matt's Song - The Soviettes
6. Neighborhood #2 - The Arcade Fire
7. Strung Out Again - Elliot Smith
8. Bowl of Oranges - Bright Eyes
9. Le Jazz et Le Gin - Coralie Clement
10. Cropduster - Pearl Jam

+1 superfunky wine recommendation:

Clos Coutale Cahors 2003 ($14) - imported by Kermit Lynch through Winebow. Without knowing the grapes involved in this thick, indigo, mystery wine, one might guess it's made from Tannat as the wine is replete with burnt orange and licorice scents.  Would you believe this wine, from Cahors in France's southwest, is made from 80% Malbec and 20% Merlot?  If your experience with Malbec is confined to Argentina, you're in for one big, chewy surprise.  In addition to this wine's odd yet compelling orange-licorice scent-combo, I discovered scents of cedar, red cherry and hints of herbs.  Be warned, allow this badboy to air our for at least an hour before sipping, or your tongue will get locked into a tannic vice grip.  However, after it's had a chance to breathe, Clos Coutale is compelling with tangy, wild flavors and a seemingly eternal finish.  Serve it up with marbled beef or lamb chops and enjoy a downright memorable dining experience.

Tell us if you've had any superfunky wine experiences recently, and, what's randomly rotating on your iPod?  Happy Tuesday.

Beau Jo Crus

By now, you've likely been anvilled over the head a dozen or so times about the annual arrival of Beaujolais Nouveau.  Naturally the cynic in me sees Beau-Nouveau as a ploy to sell off lots and lots of mediocre wine.  On the other hand, the wine lover in me sees this 3rd-Thursday-in-November wine rush as damaging to the overall perception of this unique wine region, which is technically part of Burgundy - but not really.  Hint:  If you must Nouveau, try laying your hands on a bottle of Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau - it's a step up from basic Beaujolais Nouveau.

This past summer I came face to face with François Mauss, the French wine critic who referred to Beaujolais as 'not proper wine', and 'vin de merde'.  In fact, upon meeting Mssr. Mauss, his guide/translator excitedly told me that, "this is the guy that called Beaujolais shi**y wine."  Were this bloviating critic referring only to Nouveau, I would be hard pressed to argue with his summation (let's face it, B.Nouveau is, in the pantheon of wine, fairly unremarkable).  However, to drag the oft decent Beaujolais Villages and frequently fabulous Beaujolais Crus into the merde is, in my opinion, wrong.

Gamay + Ground
Geographically speaking, Beaujolais hitches snugly up to Maconnais, Burdundy's Southern flank.  In fact, Macon red is actually made from Gamay - the red varietal which predominates in Beau-jo.  Lest you get the impression I am a Beaujolais expert, I will sheepishly admit to pronouncing the first bottle of Beaujolais I ever saw as, "Bo-jolly-ass."  Ahem. 

In this area of Burgundy, Gamay is king.  Fairly generic everywhere else, the French believe Beaujolais' good Gamay can be attributed to, surprise!, terroir.  Gamay plus good terroir often results  in light, lively and fruity wines.  The best Gamay vineyards tend to exist in hilly areas with sandy clay-over-granite soils.   Such sites are most common in the northern portion of Beaujolais.  Whereas most of the southern Beaujolais is a flat, clay 'wine flat', which is responsible for Nouveau and the more generic versions of B.Villages.  For now, let's ignore the south and have a looksie at Beau-Jo's North.

Know Your Beaujolais Crus
Within a stretch of just 15 miles lie the ten Crus (i.e. premiere growing sites) of Beaujolais. Where Burgundy fanatics consider the Cote d'Or hilly, Beaujolais groupies look at its Cru terrain as downright mountainous.  While all the Crus have hills and granite bedrock in common, there is remarkable diversity amongst them.

Brouilly is the largest and perhaps most available of the Beaujolais Crus.  Due to its size, you may encounter mediocre wine, but if you locate wine labeled as Cote de Brouilly, you may be surprised by a concentrated, black-raspberry laden wine.

Chenas is the smallest, rarest and most prized Cru.  Wine from Chenas is often described as fat, fleshy and floral.

Morgon ranks #2 in Cru size.  The soils here are incredibly rocky.  The best Morgon wines possess full body and concentrated fruit flavors of cherries and plums.

Régnié is the youngest Cru - obtaining its status in 1988.  In contrast to Morgon, Régnié's soils are quite sandy, and thus produce soft, smooth wines with simple berry flavors.

Chiroubles is unknown to many (including me).  This is the highest altitude Beaujolais Cru.  Chrioubles is said to produce some of the most unique wines in this region - redolent of violets and peonies.

Fleurie is the 'happy medium' of Beaujolais Crus.  It produces fairly soft, fairly floral and fairly fruity wines.

Moulin a Vent, with its ancient windmill, is the icon of Beaujolais Crus.  The best wines from Moulin a Vent offer scents of roses and ripe berries.

Julienas is renowned for its quality standard.  Wines from this Cru are often able to shine after 2-3 years of ageing.  Whereas 'berries' is the most common adjective for Beaujolais Cru wines, Julienas often possesses peach characteristics.

Saint Amour is the northernmost Cru.  These wines tend to be quite lively with flavors of tart cherry & spice.  Due to their characteristic high acidity, the wines of Saint Amour, tend to be age-worthy (up to 3 years).

Recommendation:  Alas, I live under a Stalinist wine regime which is monopolized by wines from the famous/infamous 'Don' of Beaujolais, Georges Dubouef.  However, I will say that Georges knows his Brouilly!  In recent years, Duboeuf has taken to bottling Domaine-specific Brouilly.  For twelve bucks, take a wild ride on Duboeuf's Domaine de Grand Croix Brouilly 2005 ($12).  It's anything but light and racy.  This wine will wow you with heft and sensual-smooth texture.

Have you sampled a Beaujolais Cru recently?  If so, tell us about it in the comments.

Two Questions

Question #1: Is the big oeno-homogenization upon us? 
As someone who literally tastes hundreds (thousands?) of wines each year, the Caveman answers thusly:

"One of the reasons that I do what I do are the wine tastings. I used to revel in these moments, looking forward to each with the anticipation of a kid running home Halloween night with a bag full of candy… oh, which one will I gobble down first?

But more and more my bag is overflowing with the same candy. Recent tastings have left me wondering wether those harbingers of doom (me included) were right; we are moving with giant steps towards a uniformity of taste, adorned in Chairman Mao grey sporting both little hats and stars."

Question #2: Aside from the ongoing Great Leap Forward in the world of wine, what makes a really good, memorable bottle of wine? 

Inquiring minds want to know.

Succinct Reviews: Weinbach Muscat

This episode of Succinct Wine Reviews:

"Floral and fruity with mineral character.  A sensual, rich texture - almost Gewurz-like - rounded, complex flavors with an exceptionally long finish.  Perfect with earthy-sweet dishes like roasted butternut squash stuffed with prosciutto."

-- Brought to by  Domaine Weinbach Muscat Reserve 2001 ($30); imported by Vineyard Brands

Technorati Tags: alsace, france, french wine, muscat

Poll: Champagne Truth

I love Champagne.  You love Champagne.  It's difficult not to be beguiled by the stuff.  However, occasionally, I feel a bit let down by the bubbles.  I know bringing up this topic may make me a wine heretic.  Don't get me wrong; if I only had one mixed case of wine on a desert island, 2 of the 12 wines would be Champagne - Krug and Salon Le Mesnil.

I was thrilled to discover that the theme for WineBloggingWednesday #25 was Champagne (the real deal, from France).  I tracked down a new-to-me marque:  Lenoble.  For $55, I took home Lenoble's 1996 Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs.  What could be better than sipping vintage bubbly on a rainy Wednesday night?

The wine was good.  That was the problem.  Technically, it was well-balanced, good flavors, yadda, yadda.  However, I just spent a fifty-five bucks.  Shouldn't it be really good? Shouldn't I be lying in bed searching for a cigarette?  Or, at a minimum, shouldn't I have heard one or two angels singing?  The bubbly was good, not great.  That makes me uneasy.

When I first began learning about wine, the following caveat was drilled into my head from a number of "experts":

Spending more money doesn't necessarily equate to better wine.  However, a notable exception is Champagne.  The relationship between price and quality is rock-solid.

The more Champagne I taste, the more I find the above statement to be baloney.  I love the bubbles, but I trust them less and less each day.

What do you think?

The price of Champagne is generally..

Create Free Polls

See results here.

Technorati Tags: champagne, poll, wine

VdP Viognier Gone Wild?

"..some of the most robust viognier plants in Condrieu."

There seems to be a trend in importer Eric Solomon's portfolio of wines custom blended for the U.S. market.  I've seen a number of his European Cellars' Spanish selections labeled as such.  Southern France appears to be next up on the Solomon custom cuvee list.  For example, take Domaine de la Janasse's VdP (Vin de Pays - essentially a notch below the AOC system) Viognier.  Here's what Robert Parker says about the '04 vintage:

Rating:    88 points Drink:    2006-2007
The 2004 Viognier VDP d’Orange reveals copious quantities of orange marmalade, litchi, and mango notes in its exotic personality. Drink it over the next year.  (Parker, 02/06)

Nice Bob, but is this description for the scent?  For the flavor?  Exactly what will this wine do in my mouth?  And, should one purchase this 88-point wine based on big Parks' adjectival alliteration?

Only 87 Pts

Suppose you're leafing through a back issue of the Wine Enthusiast and come upon this review:

"Score: 87 Points
Produced from biodynamically grown grapes, this wine certainly has pure fruit. It also has fine tannins, a subtle mix of red fruit flavors, and juicy acidity. Tannins dominate the finish."

I don't know about you, but I stopped reading after 87 points.  How many people would get up out of a their comfy chair to track down an 87-point wine?  Not I.

Here's what I would do:

I leaf through a small French bistro's wine list and notice a reasonably priced bottle of red wine from France's Minervois appellation - demarcated as a distinct wine region only since 1985.  What the hell?  For 30 bucks, I'll try a new wine & add another notch to my corkscrew handle.

I order Chateau La Croix Martelle 'La Reserve de Sirus' 2001. 

Sniff & Sip #1: Pleasant scents of blackcurrant, cedar and leather.  Fairly basic flavors and structure.

Sniff & Sip #2: There seems to be a slight meaty aroma and the wine's silky smooth tannins appear to be striding towards my tongue's main stage.

With filet mignon & mashed potatoes in a brandy-white peppercorn gravy: Dine-O-Mite.  The wine makes this one of those long, slow, exceedingly enjoyable dinners in which all the flavors compliment one another perfectly.  In other words, while this wine was simply an '87-point' tasting experience when sampled alone, it became a key ingredient to a memorable meal once enlivened by food.

The moral of the story: Numbers on a hundred-point scale and a few vaguely descriptive sentences don't do most wines justice.  Occasionally, in order to create fond culinary memories, an adventurous spirit comes in handy.  This week, try a wine from a region unknown to you.  You might just get lucky.

The Skinny
Chateau La Croix Martelle 'La Reserve de Sirus' 2001(~ $16 - retail)

• Imported by Boisset; 13% alcohol; 40% Cinsault, 35% Syrah, 23% Grenache, 12% Mourvedre
• Deep, black cherry in color with a dusty-red rim
• The wine initially offers scents of blackcurrant, cedar and leather.  After 20-30 minutes of air time, Sirus introduces aromas of meat, black pepper and a touch of funk (compliments of brett)
• The wine is rich and smoothly textured.  Without food, Sirus seems restrained.  Once a steak or roasted game is introduced, Sirus shines.  It accentuates succulent flavor and extends the foods' 'palate time' in the mouth.
• Verdict: Highly Recommended

All that; and only 87 points.

Technorati Tags: french wine, red wine, wine enthusiast, wine, wine review

Coppola? Coppola! Coppola.

Have you ever experienced a 'Malkovich moment'?  You know; an experience in which one topic/person/product converges through an inter-galactic wormhole and engulfs your entire being?  No?  It goes something like this:

Woman in red dress (w/J. Malkovich's head): Mmalk-o-vich..
Waiter (/J. Malkovich's head): Malkovich. Malkovich?
Woman in red dress (w/J. Malkovich's head): Malkovich.  Malkovich.
J. Malkovich viewing menu & wine list: All dishes/beverages printed as, "Malkovich"
& so on; + so forth. (video)

My Malkovich moment occurred just a couple nights ago.  Mi amiga & I dined in Park City at Chez Betty - one of the town's most consistently good restaurants.  Although, I have a teensy request to make for the management team at C.B.  Please, oh, pretty please, redecorate - your food & service are too good for the yawn-inspiring decor.  And, please, for the love of all that is holy & musical, pull the plug on the Kenny G-zak.  Almost any other musical selection would work (and be an improvement) in this eclectic eatery.  Now then; where was I?  Oh yes.  Feeling a trite gluttonish, I ordered the chef's tasting menu with wine pairings.  The food was divine and wines #1 & #2 were solid - a bubbly Spanish Cava and Monte Antico Rosso, a Tuscan Sangiovese offering textbook sangiovese-ness.  Wine #3 was to be an Oregon Pinot Noir from Patton Valley. Our server approached with a pre-poured glass and offered, "Would you care to try the Coppola* Pinot Noir instead?  It's been quite popular with our diners."  I began to speak when...from the adjacent table I heard:

"Another glass of Coppola, please."
"The Coppola?  Certainly, right away."
"For you miss?  More Coppola?"
"Yes.  More Coppola."

And then from the table directly in front of me:

"We'll have the Diamond Merlot...the Coppola."
"The Coppola?  Excellent choice."

I then heard my wife (who thankfully hadn't morphed into beardy Francis F.):

The Coppola?  He's not fond of Coppola. Coppola Coppola Coppola Coppola Coppola Coppola.

Ahhhhhhhhhh.

I felt the force of a thousand Coppolas pressing on my psyche.  The wormhole had opened and I was determined to force it shut (That, and I haven't been a huge fan of Coppola wines - my recent experience with the bubbly 'Sophia' was more Godfather Pt. III than Godfather I & II; if you catch my drift).  I summoned all my strength and stammered, "ahh. uhh.  I prefer to sample the Patton Valley, please."

Phewww.  The universe shifted back into balance.  A Coppola calamity averted.

By the way, the winning wine of the night was a humble French red (cleverly labeled as Pinot Noir - what a concept) called "Lulu B."  It's a Pinot Noir from the Limoux appellation - next door to the Languedoc.  'Twas a simple Pinot, yet this wine edged more to the earthy-funky side of the Pinot-continuum, while the berrylicious side was occupied by the Pinot from Patton Valley).

As I said, the universe righted itself.  Or did it?  Later that evening I saw the preview of Sophia Coppola's new film Marie Antoinette.  And damned if all the audio didn't reach my ears as, "Le Coppola, Le Coppola," etc.

*Yes, I know that Coppola is now "Rubicon Estate."  But, 'Rubicon, Rubicon' isn't quite as catchy as 'Coppola, Coppola'.

Technorati Tags: burgundy, california wine, coppola, france, pinot noir

Loire Cramming

Greetings and welcome to WBW24....Wha?  Today is WineBloggingWednesday?!  Oy, I need to track down a Loire Valley white wine; and fast.

Of course, one of the most common whites of the Loire is Vouvray.  However, be advised: Your Vouvray May Vary.

After the varying Vouvray, you are likely to encounter Muscadet.  Keep in mind, Muscadet is not Muscat/Moscato/Muskadel/Muskateller/Moscatel.  Muscadet, like Vouvray, is named for the region.  The grape in Muscadet is called Melon de Bourgogne (slightly confusing, no?).  And don't worry, if you spot the term, "sur lie" next to 'Muscadet,' as you're in for a creamier wine sipping experience.

Naturally, if neither the Vouv nor the Musc do it for you, feel free to grab a Sancerre - particularly if you're fond of lime, citrus or feline micturation. 

Finally, if you are into the sweet stuff, give Coteaux du Layon, Bonnezeaux, Savennieres or Quarts de Chaume a go.

Now excuse me...I gotta run to the wine shop.

Technorati Tags: france, french wine

West*Pinot*Corsica

Hey, yo.  I drank this wine, right.
Ruby red, cherry aroma; not too tight
Not so strange.  But dig this:
It's from Napoleon's birth-site.

Howdy Monsieur, much obliged for the avant-garde.
Even though, you own nary a vine-yard.
Vanilla charred, speakin of which or who,
wine all toasty like you tossed in an oak or two.
A glass of baked fruit cru; bottled in C.A. - who knew?

His name rhymes with "Spark Test."
You could call him experimenter, quester, Mr. Mark West.
Able to snag Pinot from a Mediterranean Isle,
then bring it back; age it on the P-coast for a while.

More interesting than any critter-wine bottling.
When you're online, find it on wine-searcher-ing.
What's up with your Pinot? It's cheap and a good drink.
Whoever don't like it, needs examined - they can't think.

Brought to you by:
Mark West Pinot Noir 2004 ($8-$10)
Pinot Noir sourced (harvested and vinified) from Corsica; then matured and bottled in California.
Try it with: grilled veggies & goat cheese

Rhymes inspired by ATHF

Technorati Tags: athf, corsica, dangerdoom, pinot noir, wine

Embarrassing/Not Embarrassing

Embarrassing

(click pic to view this phat video)
In 1989, I purchased this 'band's' album.  The embarrassing thing is that I thought the music was dope.  Sideways-Gumby-fades, spandex, the running man, a bridge rap - what's not to like!?  Word to the U-Krew.

Not Embarrassing

There are few things in the world of wine more satisfying than a reasonably-priced, tasty red Burgundy.  Bernard Morey's Old Vines (Vieilles Vignes) Santenay 2002 ($20-$25) is a classic, slightly rustic expression of Pinot Noir.  I wouldn't be embarrassed to serve this wine to the Queen of England, the Pope, or a Rabbi (isn't this how that one joke begins?..).  This Santenay is a dusty ruby color with scents of red plum, tomato and strawberry.  In the mouth Morey's Burgundy is light and crisp.  It possesses flavors of red berries, a little bittersweet chocolate along with just a smidgeon of vanilla.  This wine makes the perfect accompaniment to herb-stuffed, roasted chicken.  Forget, just Tuesdays; I could spend nearly every day with Morey.  The wines of Bernard Morey are imported by Vineyard Brands.

Technorati Tags: burgundy, pinot noir, france, french wine, music, U-Krew