Basic Juice - the wine blog for my generation

I can't believe it's not Stelvin!

There are those who cling to the 'romance' and 'tradition' of popping the cork prior to imbibing.  Then there are those who think such 'romance' and 'tradition' are ridiculous if these totems potentially mean stinking, spoiled wine.  Both camps have valid points.  I'm a sentimental, shmoopy sucker for the romance involved in popping the cork.  But then, If I've dropped 40 or 50 clams, and my just-popped bottle of wine smells like a box-full of soggy, old Boys Life magazines, I set up camp amongst the pro screw-cap crowd.

Must the wine lover chose between faulty corks and sterile Stelvins when it comes to bottle closure?  Would that there were a closure, which could preserve in an aesthetically appealing manner.  Thank the cosmos for Vino-Lock.  This glass stopper is much prettier than a Stelvin and, of course, more reliable than cork oak bark cylinders.

Just a few weeks ago I took home the first glass-stopped wine to appear in the wine shop.  I loved it.  And the wine wasn't too bad either.

Cusumano IGT Sicily Merlot 2006 ($12) - A simple, exuberant Merlot made more appealing by its aesthetically cool glass stopper.  This inky-purple wine offers scents of cherry jelly and baked strawberry.  Its flavors a simply tangy fruit.  Cusumano Merlot is nothing if not pleasant and eager to accompany pizza.

Technorati Tags: italy, merlot, wine

Don't Stop Believin

If I were a big fan of The Sopranos, I might throw an end-of-series wake. Naturally I would serve vino Italiano. My crew wouldn't get none of them B's - Barolo, Barbresco, Barbera.  Rather, I'd head to 'the family's' Island - Sicily.  Why should one look to Sicily (just don't stare) for get-together wine?  Two words: cheap wine.  Now hold on a minute; It aint so bad.

Sure, Sicily's vino past is a bit cloudy. With its hot summer temperatures, the island produced generations of highly alcoholic, color-intense wine, which was used as blending juice. In fact, it's a dirty little secret that many French vignerons bought 'protection' for their weaker wines from La Cosa Loro.

More recently however, a few capos decided they would have more success conquering the wine world with style rather than brute strength. These cerebral Sicilians focused on quantity over quality. And believe you me, you should have no problem with that. Nowadays one can procure high fallutin' Sicilian vino at boutique prices (you don't even have to know a guy).  One may also, if one is so inclined, track down rosy pink wine from the island (I happen to know a guy).

Luckily it seems that a few vino consigliori even persuaded their boss to produce good. cheap. wine.  To the folks at Feudo Arancio, I offer a hearty shoulder-clapof gratitude for two Sicilians that should be at every wiseguy get-together on March 12.

'Grillo'
A unique white wine full of lemon zest, cucumber, romaine and white pepper scents.  This wine is great with pork chops or baked ziti.  It's even solid enough to stand up to a slice (either New York or Chicago).

'Nero' (Feudo Arancio Nero D'Avola 2005 - $7)
Now don't expect this Nero to move the earth after a sip or three. But as a spicy-fruity sipping beverage to nurse as you ponder Tony's fate, it is just the ticket. And yes, it will pair perfectly with mama's spaghetti or a leftover slice.

 

Feudo Arancio Nero D'Avola:  Don't stop believin in sub-$10 wine

tags italian wine, red wine, wine, the sopranos

Riesava? Schiesling?

The Kerner varietal was bred in 1969 after such successful (both semi- and un-) German corossings as Scheurebe, Huxelrebe and Faber. It was born in Württemberg, Germany from a red grape papa (Schiava) and Riesling. Rather than being named Riesava or Schiesling, it was named 'Kerner' after a local songwriter renowned for his drinking songs.

"Neunundneunzig Flaschen voller Wein an der Wand..."

The Skinny
Abbazia di Novacella (Stiftskellerei Neustift) Kerner "Valle Isarco" 2004 ($19)

• From Italy's Alto Adige region
• 100% Kerner
• Very pale white gold in color
• Fresh fruit scents of white peach & pear.  There also seems to be some apple cider notes as well
• Lush, fresh flavors of nectarines with a little citrus zip. Simple, yet quite pleasant and drinkable. Overall, I would say this wine tastes something like a young, chubby Riesling.  It is indeed hefty, but possesses plenty o' acid to balance everything out

Try it with asparagus soup or pasta and fresh veggies.

How Do You Like It?

Greetings and happy greeting card industry-generated-remember the chocolate hearts-and-roses day.  Hopefully you and your beloved will enjoy an evening of passion in Eros' honor.

The question is, how do you like your lovin'?  Are you a squeaky clean, polite kanoodler, or  nasty, no-holds-barred kind of Don/Maria Juan?

For those who like it clean..

Pascal Jolivet 'Attitude' Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($15) - Despite using the cred-enhancing term, "Attitude," Jolivet's Sauvi is the epitome of E. Post politeness (and, as an added bonus, the wine is classified as Vin de Pays du Jardin de la France.  Basically this means Mssr. Jolivet can scrawl the grape variety's name on the label, thus making it tres easy for customers to understand what kind of wine they are getting).  This Sauvignon Blanc is pale yellow-gold with hints of meadow green hues.  It pleasantly presents itself with scents of lime, grassy-field-freshness and a titch of gooseberry.  In the mouth, The 'Tude, proves just how even-handed Sauvignon Blanc can be.  It tingles with fresh acidity, then turns slightly smooth and citrusy on the finish.  Put on your blue blazer/cable knit & pearls, and enjoy this wine with a classic Caesar or Cobb salad.  Then close your eyes tightly and smooch your snookums/teddy bear/precious.

For those who like it naughty..

Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2000 ($40 [375ml]) - Pull out your whips, chains, ass-chaps, fishnets, etc. before you enjoy this decidedly 'dirty' wine.  Classico is a, uh, grape-threesome, of Corvina (75%), Rondinella (20%) and Molinara (5%).  The result of some compressed aging in its half-bottle home is a dusty-red wine with scents of ruby Port, dates, violets and cedar-funk (i.e. damp/burned/chopped wood).    In the mouth, this Valpolicella from Italy's Northeast is surprisingly agile - with some cripsness, a mix of dried & fresh berry flavor and slightly chewy finish, courtesy softened up tannins.  Sample it with some nastyfunk playing in the background and git bizee.

Happy St. V.!  Enjoy the convo candy hearts.

Margherita

Sometimes elegance and simplicity go hand in hand.  Take the Margherita pizza:

When King Umberto I of Savoy and Queen Margherita visited Naples, they went to  Raffaele Esposito’s restaurant in the heart of Naples and ordered him to make pizzas for the whole Court. Raffaele Esposito made two typical pizzas:  the Marinara, created in 1800, and the Mastunicola, the oldest Neopolitan pizza which dates back to 1660.  His wife made a special pizza for Queen Margherita with tomato, oil and mozzarella. She then added basil to recall the Italian flag. Thus pizza Margherita was born in 1889 in the Italian Queen’s honor. (hat tip to Cafe Porta Alba of Madison, WI).

This most simple of pizzas is the perfect anecdote to the fast-food transmorgification of pizza into something wholly different (cough*CPK*cough).  However, to fully experience the beauty of Margherita, one must track down a wood-oven baked pizza.  And don't forget an easy-drinking glass of vino.  Two of my favorites are Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi or Montepulciano d'Abruzzo.

O Noble

There are an abundance of grapes in northern Italy's brooding reds that begin with the letter 'B': Barolo, Barbaresco and Barbera. Sliding a bit south to Tuscany, we discover another 'B' - unknown to most wine drinkers.  In fact, in this region where Chianti and Prada-like SuperTuscans reign supreme, this 'B' is altogether anonymous.  Don't believe me?  Take the one-question quiz:

Q:  What is the name of the grape variety used to produce Vino Nobile di Montepulciano?

'A' on the flip....

New Music Tuesday: 21st Century Disco

Imagine Disco had never suffered a much-scorned demise.  How might it sound today in ought-six?  Say hello to Ghostland Observatory:

Ghostland Observatory is the duo of front man Aaron Behrens and producer/drummer Thomas Turner. Behrens’ vocal style and stage performances are unique and uncompromising, and he has drawn early comparisons to Freddie Mercury and Prince. Turner is heavily influenced by electronic artists such as Daft Punk, Laurent Garnier and Green Velvet, as well as rockers such as The Animals, David Bowie, and The Clash. With their spectral blend of electronics, drums, guitar and vocals, they have emerged with a sound that is the culmination of past influence and present inspiration, and can only be described as BALLSY [emphasis not mine]

Think those are fairly lofty comparisons?  Have a listen to GO's Sad Sad City (track 1 on the menu).

Granted, I was only six years old when Travolta's hair and white suit made Disco mainstream.  I do however seem to remember around the same time a spate of ads for Asti Spumanti and Riunite on Ice..that's nice! (aka chilled Lambrusco from the Italian wine region, Emilia-Romagna).  So it seems Northern Italian vino had the corner on 70s Disco refreshment.  Perhaps we should give the Sicilians the opportunity to quench our 21st Century Disco thirst..

Get down with Tasca d'Almerita's Regaleali Bianco Sicilia IGT, 2005 (~$11).  Big Parks gives this white blend of 3 Sicilian varietals (Inzolia, Cataratto, Grecanico) the magic 90 point score (which means you best track it down now before it disappears).  I do have to agree with his observation that T.d'A.'s bianco is surprisingly crisp and fresh considering how far in Italy's steamy, sunny south the vines are.  Regaleali defies expectations with a zesty mouthfeel coupled to scents that can best be described as a vanilla-peach cream soda-pop minus HFCS.  This wine is indeed simple, but also unique and refreshing.  Give it a go while boogeying to Ghostland Observatory.

PS: Regaleali, imported by Winebow, also makes a fabulously funky rosato.

Divine Tears, Red Feet & Foxtails

Italy may be the global champion in creative naming of grape varietals and wines.  The Campania region (located on Italy's shin) seems to have a special flair for creative vino names.  Take two of its grape varietals - Coda di Volpe and Piedirosso.  According to legend, Coda do Volpe, which means 'tail of the fox,' was named by the famous Roman elder, Pliny.  Apparently DdV's clusters have a fox tail-like appearance.  Piedirosso (literally, 'red feet') refers to this grape's red-colored root-ends.

However, when it comes to Campania and creative names, the hands down winner is, "Lacrima Christi del Vesuvio."  First, let's find out about the name, and then move onto the wine.  There are numerous tales regarding the origins of, "the tears of Christ from Vesuvius."  The most fanciful goes something like this (via Babbo):

When Archangel Lucifer was cast out of heaven, he grasped a small divine chunk of heaven while falling to earth.  Lucifer placed this chunk in what is now the bay of Naples - Campania's capitol.  Missing this little chunk of heaven, the Lord cried over it and his tears rained down on the slopes of Mount Vesuvius.  From these 'Lacrima Christi' sprang vines that later produced the grapes for this fancifully-named DOC wine.

Lacrima Christi is produced in white, rose and red versions.  These wines are generally blends of local grape varietals such as 'foxtail' or 'red feet.'  Lacrimas are quite unique and normally well-priced.  Red Lacrima is the perfect accompaniment to a hearty autumn pasta dish like fettuccine with sausage and kale.

A red Lacrima to try: De Angelis Lacrima Christi del Vesuvio Rosso 2004 ($17; 13% alcohol; 60% Piedirosso & 40% Aglianico; imported by Vin Divino).  This ruby red wine is a unique scent collection for your sniffer - cranberry, blood orange, clove and dried herb.  In the mouth Lacrima initially offers intense fruit flavors followed by light tannins and a long, earthy finish.  Very nice - not moved-to-tears nice, but nice nonetheless.  Try this wine - we don't want the Lord to have cried for no good reason (and you don't even want to know what happens when god gets mad - think of the kittens).

Technorati Tags: italian wine, wine, wine pairing, wine review

beni's baby b

Barbaresco is the more graceful sibling of Barolo.  Both wines, made from Northern Italy's Nebbiolo grape, are often very austere and quite pricey. Thus they are not readily sipped by wine newbies.  In addition to the price and style factors is the age factor.  Many Nebbiolo-based wines aren't approachable within the first decade of bottle-life.  Thus, if you are new to the 'killer b' scene, it's wise to kick off your Barolo/Barbaresco exploration with a less-expensive Barbaresco.  While budget-Barbs don't offer the depth and complexity of luxe Barbarescos or big Barolos, they do provide the budding oenonaut with a taste of Nebbiolo's distinct flavor profile.  So, if you've never had Nebbiolo, try Beni's Barbaresco and see if Nebbiolo is for you.

Beni di Batasiolo Barbaresco 2000 ($30)

• Imported into the US by Boisset America; 13% alcohol
• 100% Nebbiolo from Italy's Piedmont (northwest)
• Rusty ruby in color with a wide, orange-brown rim
• Scents of graphite, violets, dried cherry and a touch of birch beer (really)
• This wine is what I would call, "slow acting."  After sip numero uno, It seems smooth and submissive.  Yet as the wine washes across the plate its tannins begin to grip.  While in the grip of Beni's tannins, subdued flavors of tart cherry, herbs and earth are revealed.
• While this isn't an earth shattering Nebbiolo by any means, Batasiolo Barbaresco is indeed a very nice introduction to the nuances of Nebbiolo.
• Verdict: Recommended

Try this wine with slow roasted lamb - the perfect match.

Read more about Northern Italy's b's (Barolo & Barbaresco & Barbera).

Technorati Tags: barbaresco, italian wine, nebbiolo

Lent List

My wine lent list thus far:

Jeriko Estate Sangiovese 2003 ($16-$20) - I'm surprised at how often I enjoy Italians raised in California.  This Mendocino red, while powerful, offers some righteous complexity.  Red & black berry scents spiced with dried herbs and a hint of clove.  The tannins are a bit grippy, which makes it a great choice with something roasted.  Organic. Verdict: Recommended

Quinta dos Roques Garrafeira 2000 ($35) - An old world throwback.  Flavors of just-ripe red cherry mixed with hints of cedar and earth.  Jaggedy, slightly wild tannins that haven't yet softened with age.  Have you ever tried red wine from the Dao region of Portugal?  It may just inspire you to talk like a pirate.  Yar. 
Verdict: Recommended

Qupe Marsanne 2004 ($20) - What do you get when you pull Viognier out of a white Cali-Rhone blend?  Less honeysuckle and more fresh melon tang.  This Santa Ynez Valley white wine is the perfect California expression of two of the Rhone's unheralded whiteys (75% Marsanne & 25% Rousanne).  Slurp it with a little spicy Asian stir fry.  Verdict: Highly Recommended

Bonny Doon Erbaluce 2004 ($17) - This resurrected northern Italian varietal produces charming wine.  It's been known to save relationships.  Doon's Erbaluce exhibits a nifty combination of lemon zest, white pear and herbal scents.  On the tongue, the wine is deceptively rich and hearty - it'll stand up to spicy Indian curry.  Verdict: Highly Recommended

Thus far the grape varietal roster for wine lent reads:

• Sangiovese
• Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro, Tinta Roriz and Jaen (Portugese grapes)
• Marsanne & Rousanne
• Erbaluce

Do you have any exciting, lent-approved discoveries to add?

Technorati Tags: california wine, italian wine, portugal, red wine, wine, wine review

Piedmont Jeopardy

I'll take "red grapes of Italy's Piedmont" for 200, Alex.

And the answer is: This grape variety is analogous to Merlot in Bordeaux.  It ripens early and produces easy-drinking wine with soft tannins.

Don't forget to answer in the form of a question.

Cue theme music

The Few, The Proud, The Combiners

Great movements don't always begin with a bang.  For example, take Combinations.  The July installment only had a few participants.  Yet, I'll take quality over quantity any day of the week.  The theme for July Combos was 'go green.'  I challenged all d.i.y. Sommeliers and chefs to create a menu based on fresh herbs out of their own gardens, from a farmers market, or green grocery.  My Combinations menu was an Italian-influenced exercise in Iron Chef-ing.

The herbal building blocks for this menu all came from my humble herb & tomato garden.  I selected rosemary, basil, sage (two varieties: 'common' and yellow-leaf) and sweet grape tomatoes.  Out of this green (& red) bounty, I created the following:

Fried Sage Leaves - If you've never fried up a little sage, you are missing out on a highly addictive appetizer & garnish.  Many of the fried sage recipes I found call for veggie oil as the frying liquid.  Instead, I decided to 'shallow' fry these tasty leaves in butter.  Make sure you fry the leaves until crisp.  Soggy leaves are just sad.  Fatty and high calorie?  Oh yes - deliciously so.

Linguine with Pancetta, Sauteed Grape Tomatoes and Fresh Basil - I based this pasta dish on a familiar epicurious recipe.  Seeing as how my grape tomatoes are considerably sweeter than your average cherry tomato, I opted to up the crushed red pepper and basil content of this easy-as-pie pasta entree.

Pan-Fried Boneless Pork Chop - Nothing terribly creative here.  However, before adding the pork to the hot, shimmering olive oil, I infused the oil with fresh rosemary.  This had the effect of adding just a hint of rosemary flavor to the finished chop.  I also discovered that a fried sage leaf is the perfect garnish for pork chops.  The two pair quite nicely together.

Continue reading for the wine combos..

Is The Price Right?

Click-on which wine represents the best value for your money.

2004 La Conreria D'Scala Dei 'Les Brugueres'

2003 Liveli 'Passamante' Salento IGT Negroamaro

Read on to find out why you were correct/incorrect..

(2)Mile High Club

Question of the day:  Where is the most remote location in which you have sipped a glass of grapey goodness?
Bonus question: Do you recall the wine you enjoyed in your own personal Timbuktu?

Yours truly sipping a little Fiano di Avellino (Feudi di San Gregorio Fiano di Avellino 2003, ~$20; imported by Leo LoCasio/Winebow) at Maybird Lakes.  A creamy white wine from Campania - Italy's shin.  This wine is made from the Fiano grape and is full of floral scents and tangy grapefruit & nectarine flavors.  The perfect refreshment during a break along this 7.5 mile hike with a 2,000' elevation gain.

A cloud halo around the Pfeifferhorn - an 11,000' peak along the Wasatch front.

Technorati Tags: italian wine, hiking, photos, travel, white wine, wine

WBW23: All 'Bout the Salt

WineBloggingWednesday has become an institution.  Of course, it's always about the wine.  However, with this month's theme of, "BBQ Wines," it was salt, not wine, which stole the show.  I discovered something called, "Danish Viking-Smoked Salt."  If you are a serious BBQer, I can promise you that this salt is for you.  It is essentially sea salt, which has been evaporated over a fire stoked with oak, cherry, elm, beech and juniper.  I can only describe the resulting product as, "crystalized, smoky goodness."

I took my BBQ-inspiration from a recipe on the Salt Traders Website and made barbecued pork shoulder. It is incredibly easy. Simply rub the smoked salt into the pork, place it in a roasting pan, add about 1/3" water and cover tightly. Place the pork in a preheated 300F oven and roast for 2-2.5 hours. Once the pork is tender and smoky, fire up your grill (high for 10 minutes and then lower heat to medium) and baste the pork with basic/simple barbecue sauce (like this, or, *gasp* from a bottle). Grill and continually baste until pork shoulder is sporting definite grill marks. Voila!...simple, easy, smoky, delicious BBQ.

A: Prosecco, Pasta & Pungency

Q: What are sensory experiences in Venice

Have a look at my Venice photoset, or drink a little Prosecco, or both.

Technorati Tags: italy, photos

Ten Buck Tuesday: 13-buck Vermentino

Hear ye, hear ye.  The judges* have invoked a little known clause to the Ten Buck Tuesday rules, in which all Italian islands beginning with the letter "S"  ending in "A" are granted a three-dollar exception (what with all the extra transport, marauding seagulls, duties, etc).  Thus, Argiolas' Vermentino di Sardegna Costamolino, is awarded this week's TBT title.

Vermentino is one of Italy's most rugged white grapes.  It can endure heat and drought, yet still produce wines with zip.  This grape is a staple in the vineyards along Sardinia's coast.  V-tino also seems to enjoy the Tuscan coast.

The Skinny
Argiolas Vermentino di Sardegna Costamolino 2004 ($9-$13)

• 100% Vermentino from the Costamolino vineyard on Sardenia/Sardegna (the rock ricocheting off of Italy's shin); imported by Leo LoCascio
• 13.5% alcohol, vinified in stainless steel tanks, partial malo-lactic fermentation
• Intensely bright green-gold in color
• scents of lemon and pepper along with subtle notes of fresh parsley
• In the mouth, Argiolas is full-bodied and viscous.  It offers tart lemon-herb flavors, along with a nifty finish, which is simultaneously crisp and creamy.  Considering this Vermentino's considerable heft (13.5% alcohol), the wine maintains an admirably crisp acidity

This wine is sitr-fry friendly, peachy with salmon roulade, and superb with succulent scallops. 

Do you know of any budget island (Sicily, Corsica, New Zealand) wines that can compete with Argiolas' "big V"?

*Ten Buck Tuesday is like Calvinball - the rules may change at any time

Technorati Tags: sardegna, vermentino, wine

How To Spit in German, French & Italian

(Editor's note: This is part of the weekend series of posts by guest authors, who are fellow bloggers, wine industry folk and Basic Juice readers.  If you are interested in being a guest author on Basic Juice, contact me with a proposal, and we'll see if we can't introduce the world to your handiwork.)

Guest Author: Emily of Winemonger - an importer and online retailer of Austrian wine.

How To Spit in German, French & Italian

In honor of Beau’s upcoming Live Austrian Wine Adventure, and for all of you out there who are planning your own wine tours abroad, I thought I would put together this small guide of words you may find yourself needing to say when you are in a German, French or Italian winery (in that order).

AGE: alter – age – eta

ALCOHOLIC CONTENT: alkoholgehalt - teneur en alcool - gradazione alcolica

BOUQUET, NOSE: bukett – bouquet – bouquet

CORKY TASTE: korkgeschmack – gout de bouchon – sapore di tappo

DRY: trocken - sec - secco

EARTHY: erdig – gout de terroir – terroso

FAT: fett – gras – grasso

FRESH: frisch – frais – fresco

FRUIT: frucht – fruit – fruttato

GRAPE: beere – baie – acino

GRAPE CLUSTER: traube - raisin - grappolo

GRAPE VARIETY: rebsorte – cepage - vitigno

LEES: geläger – lies – feccia

Steal This Article: Pink Drinking

Editor's note: Steal this article!  Whether you publish a paper, magazine, blog or scribble on the bathroom wall; fresh (& free) content is always welcome, no?  Feel free to grab this article and use it to spice up your publication.  Do with it what you will - so long as you mention that the original comes from The Juice.  Now go forth, and copy & paste.

Real Men Drink Pink

OK, I admit it.  I used to snicker at people who drank White Zinfandel.  My thoughts went something like this: “Why drink a wine that more closely resembles iced tea or cherry Kool-Aid than real wine?”  Luckily, that was as far as I made it down wine snobbery lane.  A very enlightened wine guru helped me do a U-turn when she shared her cardinal rule of wine enjoyment:  “If you happen to like a particular wine, then who cares what anyone else thinks about it?  Just drink and enjoy.”  Wine is all about enjoyment.  If you happen to like White Zin then bully for you!  I must admit; it takes a courageous person in the often hyperpretentious lounge culture to order a glass of pink wine.  I’ve seen an entire table collectively roll its eyes at a courageous (or blissfully naïve) thirtysomething ordering the lone glass of White Zinfandel amidst a sea of inky Cabernet and oaked up Chardonnay.  Well, I now proclaim myself to be a rosé drinker and I’m damn proud of it.  I still don’t care for White Zinfandel.  But I have discovered a nice little universe of rosé wines outside the White Zin realm that are perfect for springtime sipping.

Erbaluce & SMG: Marriage Counselors

My significant other and I have a problem.  Our palates are incompatible.

I like crisp, delicate white wines.  She likes reds.

I appreciate nuanced red wines.  She likes big reds.

I'm wowed by unique wines with uncommon characteristics.  She likes really big reds.

Can this marriage be saved?

Thanks to the 1-2, Friday-Saturday punch of Orsolani's (imported by Bonny Doon) Erbaluce and Guardian Peak SMG, I am happy to report that our palates have kissed and made out up.  Marital bliss has returned.  For now.

My palate's turn
It all began Friday evening.  I crouched down and peered into the wine fridge, longing for a white with zing and minerality.  I couldn't grab the object of my desire - a bottle of Il Circo "La Funambola" Erbaluce di Caluso (2004, $18).  I knew that if the missus caught me selecting a wimpy white wine for our Friday happy hour, she would veto the decision immediately.  So I got smart and created a diversion:  "Hey, Honey.  Isn't that a stray bottle of Staglin Cabernet over there under the coffee table?"  In 0.02 seconds, I had popped the cork and poured two glasses of La Funambola.  She returned to the kitchen and frowned upon seeing a glass of white wine waiting for her.  Again, I went for distraction: "You know, this is a pretty interesting wine.  It's an obscure white grape from Italy's Piedmont."  The frown was now joined by a piercing glare.  "Oooh.  Look at the label.  It's pretty cool - isn't it."  At this point, I realized she was having none of it.  We compromised.  We would go with Erbaluce on Friday and a wine of her choosing on Saturday.  My palate quaked in fear at the impending assault by a big fat red.

To my surprise, she enjoyed (or at least faked very well) the Erbaluce. La Funambola offers scents of lemon zest, white pear, along with intriguing herbal notes.  And, of course, it possesses minerality of the 'mineral water' variety.  In the mouth, this wine is fresh and crisp.  Yet this youthful Erbaluce also drapes the tongue in rich flavors of Golden Delicious apple and Bartlett Pear.  This was what appealed to m'lady's palate.  My only regret is that I don't have a second bottle stashed away, taking a three-year snooze.  I'm quite curious to see how Erbaluce would evolve over a few years.

Her palate's turn 

The Little Bitter

Some drinks trivia for you.
Q: What is the flavor of Amaretto liqueur ?

A: It tastes like almonds, of course.

Now, the bonus question.

True or False: Italian Amaretto is made from almonds.

True.  Wait; it's a trick question.  OK, false.  No!  True.  I'm confused.  That true/false statement is one of those questions that makes mortal enemies of pupil and teacher.  The original Amaretto was made in Saronno, Italy by the infusion of brandy with apricot pits.  This was way back in 1525.  Amaretto di Saronno, is still made with apricot pits, along with a caramel-colored sweetener known as gomme syrup.  Oh yeah; now it seems that almond extract is added to the mix.  Amaretto literally means " a little bitter" in Italian.  The modern expression of this beverage is most definitely not a little bitter - rather it is a lot sweet.  However, one can imagine that brandy infused with apricot pits sans sugar and almond extract would indeed be a little bitter.

As with many liqueurs, the history of Amaretto di Saronno has likely been embellished.

"It is claimed that when painter Bernardino Luini was commissioned in 1525 to paint a fresco of the Madonna for the Santa Maria delle Grazie church in Saronno, Italy, he had a romantic affair with the young innkeeper whom he had hired to pose for the painting, and she created the liqueur as a gift for her lover."

My guess is that somebody accidentally tossed a bunch of apricot pits into a cask of brandy....and voila! Amaretto was born.

The super sweet, high alcohol nature of this spirit necessitates that it be diluted on the rocks or used as a mixer.  The classic Amaretto cocktail is the Godfather:

2 cl Amaretto, 4 cl whisky, add ice and do your best Brando impression.

If you're interested in expanding your Amaretto cocktail horizons, visit Webtender.  There are 443 drinks made with  the 'little bitter' including the Keith Jackson, Lash, Amaretto Sunrise and my personal favorite - the Wookie (roar required).

Technorati Tags: amaretto, liqueur, italy, spirits

Ten Buck Tuesday: Sicily v. Portugal

In the 'Global' corner we have...
Feudo Arancio Chardonnay (2004, $8) - weighing in at 13.5% alcohol.  This Chardonnay hails from Sicily.  It's an un-oaked wine, with a surprisingly crisp character.  Arancio Chardonnay offers flavors of citrus and pineapple.  It's perfectly serviceable, yet a little too generic to my taste.  If you're interested in a cheap Sicilian, I recommend going with Feudo's Grillo, a native white grape or Nero D'Avola, a spicy-fruity red wine that's perfect with pizza.

In the 'Quirky' corner we have...
Quinta da Aveleda Vinho Verde (NV, $8) - weighing in at a svelte 8.5% alcohol.  This light, salivary gland-tickling, slightly bubbly wine is made to be drunk within two years of its born-on date. Vinho Verde (green wine) is a traditional wine made in Portugal's rainy northwest.  In this damp climate, vines grow quickly and produce grapes high in acid and low in sugar.  The result is a very light wine that tastes something like a Granny Smith apple-lime spritzer.  In fact some might argue that it "tastes great," while others contend it's, "less filling."  Try it with Tempura or a Feta & spinach salad.

And the winner of this week's Ten Buck Tuesday is...Avelda Vinho Verde.  Find it online or at a shop near you.

Have you discovered any ten buck champions recently?

That's Italian!

The perfect wine & food pairing covers up all kinds of talent shortcomings in the culinary arena (i.e. I'm not the best chef in the world).  My current favorite Italian match is the Dolcetto grape paired to radicchio, white beans and pork chops.  The dish is absurdly simple to make.  So really, all you need to do is concern yourself with picking the perfecto Dolcetto.

Dolcetto hails from northern Italy's Piedmont.  It is often overlooked in favor of its brawnier brethren - Barbera and Nebbiolo.  Granted, most Dolcetto is easy on the nose and tongue (i.e. it doesn't have much in terms of tannin toughness or acid activity as do Nebbiolo and Barbera).  However, soft and fruity doesn't always result in silly.  Dolcetto d'Alba is the most well known of the Dolcetto d'family.  Other Dolcettos d's include d'Acqui, Diano d'Alba, Ovada and Dogliani.  I've recently discovered Pecchenino's Dolcetto di Dogliani, and it has earned a spot in the wine rotation of la casa B.Juice.  It is indeed soft and fruity (the Dolcetto calling card), but it also possesses depth and balance.  this wine is the perfect foil to the succulence of pork, bitterness of radicchio and earthiness of beans.  Molto bene!

The dish: Pork chop with radicchio, white beans and rosemary (this recipe calls for a veal chop, but I sub'd in the other white meat).

The wine:  Pecchenino 'Siri D'Jermu' Dolcetto di Dogliani DOC 2003 (~$20)

The result:  Mmm. Urp. Ahh. Zzz.

tags italian wine, red wine, wine, dolcetto

Salon Standouts I

When one tastes dozens of wines in a short amount of time, specificity takes a back seat to sweeping generalizations.  Memorable wines are judged 'good' or 'really good.'  All others are quickly forgotten.  For a few of these 'really good' wines, I jotted Cliffs tasting notes with the hope that I would remember why I liked them.

Tasting so much wine at one time can make your head spin

Chateau Saint-Thibeaud Bordeaux Blanc 2004 ($10): Grassy-lemon-banana.  Character & complexity for ten bucks..sold.  Saucy scallops, please.

Dopff & Irion Gewurztraminer Selection de Grains Nobles 1998 ($30): Light, with a zesty-forward style.  Surprisingly delicate & elegant for a botrytis wine.  Add foie gras and be happy.

Chateau de Parenchere Bordeaux Clairet (not Claret) 2005 (~$15):  My first Bordeaux rosé.  The ideal pink wine for food.  Bright, crisp acidity and noticeable tannins fill the mouth.  No Hi-C here.

Montesodi Chianti Ruffina 2001 ($40):  By Frescobaldi.  This is one badass Chianti.  Slightly floral on the nose with bracing tannins in the mouth.  Extended time in barrel has made Montesodi finish smoothly, but it still seems rather frisky.  Another few years will make it more approachable...or soften it up with a pile of bubbling cheese atop lasagna.

Frescobaldi Pomino Rosso 2001 ($25):  Dig this - a Pinot Noir with a little Sangiovese & Merlot added to spice things up.  Scents of mint, eucalyptus and dried cherry.  Pomino is quite delicate, yet hangs around on the tongue for some time.  My kind of sippin' wine.  Give me game hens.

Wine for the Bada-Bing!

If I were a big fan of The Sopranos, I might throw a Season 6 Premier Party.  Naturally I would serve vino Italiano.  My crew wouldn't get none of them B's - Barolo, Barbresco, Barbera.  Rather, I'd head to 'the family's' Island - Sicily.  Why should one look to Sicily (just don't stare) for get-together wine?  Two words: cheap wine.  Now hold on a minute.  It aint so bad.

Sure, Sicily's vino past is a bit cloudy.  With its hot summer temperatures, the island produced generations of highly alcoholic, color-intense wine, which was used as blending juice. In fact, it's a dirty little secret that many French vignerons bought 'protection' for their weaker wines from La Cosa Loro.

More recently however, a few capos decided they would have more success conquering the wine world with style rather than brute strength.  These cerebral Sicilians focused on quantity over quality.  And believe you me, you should have no problem with that.  Nowadays one can procure high fallutin' Sicilian vino at boutique prices (you don't even have to know a guy).  One may also, if one is so inclined, track down rosy pink wine from the island (I happen to know a guy). 

Luckily it seems that a few vino consigliori even persuaded their boss to produce good. cheap. wine.  To the folks at Feudo Arancio, I offer a hearty hug of gratitude for two Sicilians that should be at every wiseguy get-together on March 12.

'Grillo'
A unique white wine full of lemon zest, cucumber, romaine and white pepper scents.  This wine is great with pork chops or baked ziti.  It's even solid enough to stand up to a slice (either New York or Chicago).

'Nero' (Feudo Arancio Nero D'Avola 2003 - $7)
Nero is the current holder of the vaunted Basic Juice 'best damn red wine under ten bucks' title.  Now don't expect the earth to move after sipping this wine.  But as a spicy-fruity sipping beverage to nurse as you watch Tony, Christopher and Carmela wrestle with inner demons, Nero is just the ticket.  And yes, it will pair perfectly with mama's spaghetti or a leftover slice.

Feudo Arancio Nero D'Avola:  It's big at the Bada-Bing!

tags italian wine, red wine, wine, the sopranos

Minerality II: Mountain Spring Wine

Recently, we discussed minerality in wine.  To whit, I mentioned that I normally assign wine with minerality into one of two categories: 'mineral water wine' or 'mountain spring wine.'  Can Feixes, a Spanish white wine from northern Spain, fell into the mineral water category.  It is bracing, in-your-face zesty and does a mighty fine Perrier impression.

On the other hand, wine in the 'mountain spring' category tends to hide its minerality in the background.  One wine that exemplifies the softer face of minerality is Italy's own Roero Arneis.  This wine hails from the Piedmont, in an area southeast of Torino.  It's made from the Arneis grape, which has been around since the 1400's.  Yet for Roero-lovers, minerality may not be the first adjective to spring from the lips.  Bruno Giacosa's Roero Arneis (2001, $28 - imported by Wine Bow) is a bright white-gold wine, slightly viscous in appearance, with scents of citrus peel, clove, nutmeg and green apple.  Underneath it all, lies something that I can only describe as, "stones around a mountain spring."  This is minerality, albeit of the exceedingly subtle variety.

Roero's mountain minerality takes a leading role in the mouth, along with pear and ginger ale-y flavors.  From a mouthfeel standpoint, Bruno's wine hits the tongue with acid-gusto and then softens - finishing off with creamy texture.

With this nuanced, fairly complex wine, I suggest pairing it to dishes that pack some flavor diversity. I enjoyed Giacosa  with sauteed radicchio, white beans and garlic.

Pop Hits of the 80s + Vino Nobile

As I watched the opening cermonies of the Winter Olympics, I thought, "mmhmm; I love Italy."  It wasn't the Dr. Seuss-inspired trees-with-legs.  Nor was it the fire-jet helmets that made feel as if I was watching a James Bond film.  And no, it wasn't because 'pop hits of the 70s & 80s' played as participating nations' athletes entered the stadium.  Rather, it was the perfect combination of Italian food and wine on my TV tray that ignited my Italian love.

Perhaps I should have been sipping one of the many wonderful wines from Torino's wine region - Italy's Piedmont.  After all, I could have selected a Bardolino, Barolo, Barbera (d'Asti or d'Alba), Barbaresco or even a fizzy Asti.

Yet I was in the mood for something Sangiovese-powered, so I moved further down Italy's thigh - to Tuscany.  Chianti may have been the easy choice, but I scoured the wine shop shelves for Chianti's big brother - Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.  Vino Nobile is primarily made from Prugnolo Gentile - the local name for Sangiovese.  Generally, it is fuller and more tannic than neighboring Chianti.  The wine shop's sole selection of V.Nobile was by La Braccesca - part of the Antinori Wine Armada.

The Skinny
La Braccesca Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2000 ($30)

• 80% Prugnolo Gentile ( Sangiovese) & 20% 'other' from Tuscany, Italy
• Deep burgundy in color fading to a coppery-garnet rim
• Scents of black cherry, prune, vanilla, mint along with hints of birch beer
• Methinks this wine is slilghtly past its prime - the overall mouth-feel is smooth, yet the flavors are a bit blurred.  In spite of this, the wine is still quite pleasant with flavors of cherry and licorice coupled to earthy/leathery accents.  The tannins are quite soft and acidity rather low

La Braccesca, while no longer at its peak, is still ready & willing to enhance your dinner. I enjoyed it paired to thick pork chops with radicchio, white beans and rosemary.  The smoothness of this wine was complimented by radicchio's bitterness and the chops' subtle, earthy-sweet flavors.

tags italian wine, red wine, wine, sangiovese

Prosecco Mix-Ins: The Verdict