Basic Juice - the wine blog for my generation

A Wide Stance Wine

The words, "wide" and "stance" are innocent enough by themselves.  However, taken together, "wide stance" can conjure up less-than-innocent imagery. 

I wish to cleanse this phrase and implement it as a wine descriptor.  To whit, what does the phrase, "this wine takes a wide stance," mean to you?

Perhaps it implies a brawny, lumberjack of a wine. 

Maybe it describes wine with impressive length.

ahem.

Actually, in this case, "wide stance" refers to wine that is balanced (it's difficult to knock over) from every perspective.  Wide stance wine runs the gambit of flavor, tannin, acidity and restraint. A perfect wide stance wine is represented by Dominio de Tares' Baltos Mencia (2005, $12-$15, imported by Classical Wines).  While the frolicking nudes on the Baltos label (at right) appear as if they are capable of striking numerous stances, it owes much of its stability to the hilly growing region of Bierzo.  Of course the over-used sentiment of 'warm days and cool nights' being good for wine production is an apt descriptor of El Bierzo.  This relatively balanced climate, coupled to the mountain-loving Mencia grape , one of Spain's secret wine weapons, produce one of the most food-friendly wines I've sampled in ages.

The Skinny
Dominio de Tares "Baltos" Mencia 2005

• A deep ruby red wine with dusty, leathery highlights 'round the rim
• Scents of rasp- and straw-berry, violets, a little earth and dash of mushroom
• Perfect balance in the mouth - the relatively simple flavor is accented and gussied-up with lively acidity and solid, structured tannins.  The wine says 'adios' with a long finish powered by a solid 13.5% ABV.
• Try Baltos with pan-fried pork chops with white beans & radicchio, roasted chicken or classic spaghetti.

Ring Around the Prio

Random Trivia Question:  Without looking at a map, where is the youngish Spanish DO, Montsant, located?

tick tick tick tick tick ring

Montsant forms a horseshoe/Pacman/macrophage (for the cell-bio/wine lovers amongst us) around the power wine producing place called Priorato in Catalonia.

If you're at all familar with the concentrated, chewy wines of Priorato, wine from Montsant tastes like a slightly less pumped up sibling.

Acustic* Cellar Vinyes Velles Nobles Garnatxa i Samso 2005 ($13-$16) - For those who don't speak Catalonian, Garnatxa is Grenache and Samso is Carignan.  This wine tastes nothing like many other Grenache-containing wine you may have sipped from Spain.  The style is decidedly modern - as are many wines from neighboring Priorato.  Acustic is big, brawny and chewy.  It obviously spent around a year in oak, which is a good thing as minus those months in wood, Acustic would have been flabby.  In fact, my tasting note of Acustic dealt in textures rather than flavors.  The interaction of brawn and spine is what makes this wine very appealing.  Try this wine with grilled lamb chops, sauteed portobellas or a takeout gyro.

While most of my recent Spanish sipping has been of the "cheerful chugger" variety, this representative of Montsant reminded me that for those who venture above the $10-level, many of Spain's wines are bound to surprise with style & complexity.

*There was some poetic malarky on the rear label describing the wine as 'acoustic' - unplugged, as it were.  However, I don't quite get it as the wine claims much of its character from being 'plugged in' to the barrel.

Non-Rosé Rosé

When is a non-Rosé practically a Rosé?  When it's a young, simple Grenache from that Ginormous Grenache Growing zone that is Spain.  Perhaps in in the books of some serious wine lovers, chilling down red wine is akin to drinking through a straw (see above, left).  But when it's (still) extraordinarily hot outside, nothing hits the spot like a slightly chilled* berry-bucket Grenache like this:

Bodegas Marco Real Garnacha 2005 ($6-$9)
Like a Rosé, only in addition to Strawberry, you'll snort and sip flavors of mushed, fresh Raspberries and a hint of Blackberry.  It's berry-rific.  Actually, this is a surprisingly light-bodied wine, considering its inky-ruby color.  Close your eyes and your palate will tell you, "this is a Rosé."  But then, after opening your eyes, the brain will insist that you're sipping a red wine.  A little cognitive dissonance never hurt anyone.

*Stick it in your Fridge for 25-30 minutes, or if you're the impatient type, jam it in the freezer for 10-15 minutes.

Northwest Oasis

Seldom does a Sherry lover run across such an Oasis:

Imagine, a Sherry flight in an innovative little spot called, "Salt".  Salt Tasting Room is the place for those who enjoy exploring a little flavor alchemy involving wine, cheese and cured meat.  Needless to say, the emphasis on Sherry in the tasting experience rubbed me the right way.

If you ever find yourself in beautiful Vancouver, BC, make your way to Gastown and sit, sip & sample to your heart's content at Salt.

Naturally, my favorite pairing was an Oloroso with Stilton and a dab of honey.  A rich flavor package of funk, salt and sweet.  It made me feel just little bit decadent, and just a bit nasty (but in a very pleasant way).

More Salt pix

Sparse & chic decor in the tasting room

Meat slicer and golden oinker - what's not to like?

Cheese, meat and condiment specials o'the day on the blackboard.

Keep It Simple, Sucka

Mark the time: 10:21 PM MDT on a Thursday.  I have made a gross generalization about one particular category of wine - rosé.

Pink wine's astronomic position in the ever-expanding wine universe is this: Rosé is made to drink and enjoy.  No analytical tasting necessary.  I've recently (see here) sampled serious rosé and found that I was almost let down by the wine's subtlety & complexity.  In contrast, I slammed down $7.95 for a pink Garnacha from Spain and was tickled, uh, pink.  Remember the axiom, "Veidah iss betta"?  How's about this for a rosé regulation: "Keep it simple, sucka*". 

Exhibit A in support of good, simple rosé:
Marco Real Garnacha 2006 ($6-$9; imported by S. Miles Selections).  This little pink gem has everything anyone could possibly want in a summertime beverage.  It's straightforward with ultra-simple scents and flavors of strawbrerry strawberry.  After that, if the wine be chilled, it's mission on earth is to refresh you at the beach, on a picnic or in front of an AC vent.  Senor Real scores bonus points for keeping the ABV under 13% (12.5%, to be exact).  Nothing ruins a dandy rosé sipping experience more than hefty body & hot finish due to high [ethanol]. 

Currently Spain seems to be the epicenter for cheap & cheerful pink drinks.  If you can't find M. Real, I'm sure you'll come up with another rosé josé.

*And by simple, I don't mean White Zinfandel.  WZ is an abomination unto the oeno-world and should be smitten from the face of the earth.  Can I get an Amen?

1 + 1 =! 3

What exactly do you think this label is attempting to convey?

An unexpected value?
A rule-breaking, iconoclastic Spanish bubbly?
A jab at arithmetic?
A very poor 1st grade teacher?

Would that this mathematical expression equated to super tasting value Cava.  1+1=3 is a very serviceable sparkling wine.  However, at $13, I'll take the S to the V at ninedamndollars (or $6!) every day of the week.  It's just as good, and to my palate, it offers a bit more yeasty/toasty goodness.  However, if you're a grade school teacher, you may feel compelled to buy every bottle of "1-plus" in the store just so you can correct the label.

A more apt & honest label.

From The Annals of Unfortunate Adjectivery

Or how to describe the color of Vina Gravonia

I poured a glass of 1995 Vina Gravonia blanco, marveled at its intense deep gold-yellow color and asked the missus, "Hey, how would you describe the color of this wine?"

Her response? Very sophisticated...

"It looks just like morning pee"

Never let it be said that mi amiga aint brimming with class.

The Skinny
R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Gravonia Crianza 1995 (~$24)

• Imported from Rioja, Spain by USA Wine Imports
• 100% Viura (AKA Macabeo) aged in wood for 4 years (R. Lopez takes Rioja aging to the extreme - for example, its Gran Reserva red is aged 6 years in wood)
• Vina Gravonia offers scents of caramel, wood, citrus and earth.  At nearly 12 years old, you won't find many snappy fruit scents in this senior citizen-in-a-bottle
• The wine, surprisingly, is full of crisp acidity mated to subdued flavors.  It will shine with cream-based sauces or soft, funky cheeses.

Try it for something entirely different in the white wine world.  But please, find another adjective to describe its color.

The Ow Trio

Funny how CTS makes typing an exercise in, "ow, dammit, why is my wrist numb!?"

So in the spirit of pain avoidance and brevity, I present the Ow trio - 3 affordable Spanish wines that should jump on the wine rotation in your home.

1. Lo Brujo Macabeo 2005, $7 (imported by Bon Vivant) - Not as memorable as the Macarena, but still a nice little white wine to pair with fish tacos.
2. Bodegas Zabrin Garnacha de Fego 2005, $10 (imported by MS Walker) - Great, classy Garnacha flava at a wee little price.  One of the best ten-buck vinos I've had in months.
3. Vilosell 2004 $14 (by European Cellars) - Nifty unfiltered Tempranillo blended with Cab S., Merlot and Garnacha.  A lot of smoky depth and chewy texture.  Perfect with something meaty

Red, Magenta, Have I Been Drinking?

Red
Hewitson Ned & Henry’s Barossa Valley Shiraz 2005 ($19, Australia) – All sun-loving Aussie Shiraz isn’t simply big and brawny.  Ned & Henry’s Shiraz is an excellent example of winemaking talent from the super sunny southern hemisphere. 

Magenta
Segura di Viudas Brut Rosé Cava, NV ($10, Spain) – Day-glo, magenta-colored bubbly!  Crab cakes are calling.

Have I Been Drinking?

(click to play @ Youtube)

Or is that the best music video ever?

Breathe.

Very rarely does a $10 wine change dramatically as it breathes.  But then Spanish Monastrell (aka Mourvedre) isn't your typical grape variety.

Senor Barahonda Monastrell Tinto 2005 + 5 mins: Scents of berry Hi-C, raspberry jam and a hint of pepper

Senor Barahonda Monastrell Tinto 2005 + 15 mins: Scents of fresh raspberry, leather and a bit o' bacon

Senor Barahonda Monastrell Tinto 2005 + 55 mins: Barnyard & butcher shop, baby.

The Details: Senor Barahonda Monastrell Tinto 2005 ($10-$12).  Red Spanish wine made from 100% Monastrell.  Produced in the Yecla region (Southeast) of Spain.  Imported by Ole imports.

"Breathe" that reminds me of a song..(Listen to it.  Read it.)..

"Run away my son. See it all. Oh see the world."

GW + Wine

From the SeattlePI:  Global Warming + Washington =

"Wine grapes in Eastern Washington will be pushed to the upper limit of their temperature tolerance range, meaning they'll have to move uphill or to other regions. Cooler areas, such as Western Washington, may become more suitable for grapes."

Of course those new vines might be just a bit too toasty..

"Increased carbon dioxide will mean bigger trees, while higher temperatures increase the incidence of wildfire. The number of acres burned will increase by 50 percent by 2020 and by 100 percent by 2040, so the annual cost of fighting wildfires may exceed $75 million by 2020 -- 50 percent higher than the current expenditures. That cost will double by 2040"

Meanwhile in Spain..

"Xavier Sort is Technical Director at Miguel Torres SA, the Barcelona-based producer of Sangre de Toro wine. He worries: “Any increase in temperature in Spain may make it impossible to produce wine in lower areas.” Currently, his company is buying fields in the peaks of north eastern Spain, where the weather is cooler. “There may be a move of wineries into the Pyrenees in the future,” said Sort."

Spanish Surprise

As soon as one feels confident in understanding the breadth and diversity of Spanish wine, along comes one unlike any other from the vineyards of Spain.  Think I'm exaggerating?  Well, then, have you ever sampled an Iberian Muscat/Gewurztraminer blend?  Didn't think so.  However, this isn't some impossible-to-find, micro-production offering from an obscure winery.  This wine is produced in volume by Torres - one of the country's most recognizable wineries.  Think of it as a Spanish gem, hiding in plain sight.  'It' is Vina Esmeralda from the Catalunya region of Northeastern Spain.

Unlike the honeyed Moscato of northern Italy, or even the tangy Muskateller from Austria, this Muscat-dominated blend is simultaneously dry, rich and exotic.  V.Esmeralda offers the telltale muscat scents of fresh table grapes, augmented with exotic fruits, courtesy its 15% Gewurz.  In the mouth, V.E. is weighty without being sticky.  Once its heft passes the tongue, a smooth, velour-like texture takes center stage.  Considering this wine possesses such full-body, one is further surprised by its svelte 11% alcohol content.  The result?  A wine that's perfect solo, with traditional Spanish tapas (e.g. bacon-wrapped dates), sweet & sour pork or even crabcakes.

The details: Torres Vina Esmeralda 2005 ($11-$15).  A blend of Muscat (85%) and Gewurztraminer (15%).  Imported by Dreyfus Ashby & Co.

Life Lessons

Difficult realizations one arrives at over the course of a lifetime:

• There is no Santa
• Parents aren't perfect
• S/he is just not that into you
• There is no free lunch
• Life is, in fact, not fair
• No matter how much you wish otherwise, that '99 Spanish Rioja Reserva is past its prime - scents of decaying log rather than wild berries in the forest

sigh.

What wine life lessons have you learned?

Technorati Tags: humor, wine

Chair Beats Wallaby

Before there were day-glo kangaroos on labels, there was The chair.  Prior to puny little penguins, there was The chair.  Ante- most any cuddley, crittery wine, The chair reigned supreme.

The chair is not cute. It is not pretentious.  The chair is simply drinkable, cheap wine.  It isn't terribly memorable.  Indeed, it is most memorable for what it lacks.  The chair lacks Hi-C phony flavor intensity.  It is void of misbehaved tannins.  It does not possess a sonic-inebriating alcohol content of 16, 15, or 14%.  In short, The chair is table wine in the most unobtrusive sense of the word.

The chair beats any schmalzily-marketed wine in the $5-$7 range.  Try out The chair.

The Skinny
Rene Barbier Mediterranean Red ($5-$7) NV, Catalunya Spain

• Imported by Freixenet; 12.5% alcohol; a blend of Tempranillo, Monastrell (aka Mourvedre) and Grenache.  Available at supermarkets everywhere.
• A simple, soft-structured red wine that is made to take an unobtrusive spot at the dinner table or party.  Flavors of ripe, red raspberry are prominent, but subdued.  The perfect wine to sip while you concentrate on preparing your first Chicago/Uno/Duo-style pizza.

PS - Pizza was a success, and oh-so-easy (recipe here)

Technorati Tags: pizza, spain, wine review

Whence the Wood?

As far as I know the casks used by Sherry producers, to create Sherry; that are then later used in Scotch aging, are made from American oak.  However, there appears to be some talk from the Scotch producers that Sherry casks are made from Spanish oak.  This would be news to me.

Do any Spanish/Sherry-savvy folks know if there are indeed some Sherry producers who use casks made from Spanish oak?  Or have Scotch producers simply conflated "used Sherry cask from Spain" to "Spanish oak cask"?

Perhaps the blogosphere's Spanish wine expert might know...Ryan?

Technorati Tags: oak, sherry, spain, scotch

Don't Think, It's Finca

You worked outside all day in 105F degree heat.  It's 8:00 at night.  Do you really want to cook?  Are you even able to think clearly?  No & no.  Order a veggie pizza, pop open a $9 bottle of Finca Antigua Tempranillo (2003; imported by Martin Scott) and do your own vegetable impression.  If you must watch the TV box, just try avert your eyes from The Nuge on SuperGroup.  Yes, Teddy espouses all sorts of disturbing/fascistic malarky.  But, after switching off the thinking machinery in your head, Nugent becomes one big juicy gob of hard rock entertainment.  Finca's Tempranillo, a no-thinking-required, simple red wine, is the perfect selection for this occasion.

Technorati Tags: spanish wine, SuperGroup, ted nugent

Is The Price Right?

Click-on which wine represents the best value for your money.

2004 La Conreria D'Scala Dei 'Les Brugueres'

2003 Liveli 'Passamante' Salento IGT Negroamaro

Read on to find out why you were correct/incorrect..

Very Simply Sherry

Sherry is one of the wine world's most undervalued creations.  Sherry's history alone could fill up a War and Peace-sized volume.  Additionally, the production of Sherry, and its numerous styles, is complex enough to add a second volume to Sherry's tome.  When confronted by Sherry & its vocabulary, many modern wine drinkers become dazed & confused by terms like flor, fino, olorosa, criadera and solera. It's easier to walk on by.  However, a little time investment in understanding Sherry, will open up an entirely new world of wine scents and flavors.  Allow me to present Sherry in a user friendly, 3-part format.  Who knows, you may experience the sudden urge to grab a bottle and whip up a few tapas.  It could happen.

Part 1: Make Sherry, Not War

Part 2: Waiter!  There's a 100 Year Old Wine in My Sherry.

Part 3: Sherry Comes to Dinner

Technorati Tags: sherry, spanish wine, wine

Very Simply Sherry III: Sherry Comes to Dinner

Cross-posted at the Scotch Blog - an excellent resource for Whisky imbibers.

Future Sherry lovers of planet earth!  You have been fortified with the knowledge of Sherry's history, how its produced and the grape varieties involved.  Perhaps more importantly, you now understand the major styles of Sherry (read part II for a Sherry style refresher).  Still, the question remains:  "When do we eat?"  Prepare yourself.  Sherry is coming to dinner.

Part 3: Sherry Comes to Dinner

If you've ever sipped Sherry in a restaurant, chances are it was a sweet, dark, sticky Oloroso such as Cream Sherry.  However, Fino, Manzanilla and Amontillado Sherrys are serious food wines. - They can serve either as an accompaniment to appetizers, or as the table wine for a sit-down dinner.  Prepare yourself for a bevy of Sherry-friendly recipe ideas.

Ain't Nothin' But a (Dinner) Party, Ya'll

Finos (from Jerez) and Manzanillas (from Sanlucar) are the lightest, most delicate Sherrys.  Even though these wines are fortified (up to 15% alcohol), they taste surprisingly fresh and light.  These styles of Sherry are often described as possessing a salty/tangy flavor.  Indeed, Fino & Manzanilla Sherrys are the embodiment of the oft-overused wine adjective, "bone-dry."  The number one food caution when it comes to these wines is this:  Avoid clobbering light Sherry with heavy sauces and aggressive spices.  Focus on fresh flavors and subtle spices.  My favorite food matches with Fino & Manzanilla are appetizers/tapas - perfect for a casual get-together.  A few Fino (and Manzanilla)-friendly foods:

Very Simply Sherry II

Cross-posted at the Scotch Blog - an excellent resource for Whisky imbibers.

Now that you know a little about the epic history of Sherry, It's time to learn what all the fuss was about.  Buckle up.  I'll do my best to explain how Sherry is produced and which grape varieties are used to produce the various styles of this Spanish treat.

Part 2: "Waiter! There's a 100 Year Old Wine in My Sherry."

What would you say if I told you that a glass of 100+ year old wine will cost only a few bucks at a tapas bar?  This is the beauty of Sherry.  Sherry is a blended, non-vintage wine - and in some cases, a portion of the wine used in the blend is decades old. Sherry producers go to great lengths to produce a consistent 'house style.'  In this respect, Sherry is similar to Champagne.  Of course, in most other respects, Sherry is utterly unique.

Hot and Dirty
Jerez, the demarcated Sherry production zone, is situated in the southernmost region of Spain.  The region's otherwise toasty climate is moderated by the Atlantic Ocean.  Still, only a few miles inland, summer temperatures can reach 100F, while coastal communities enjoy much cooler air (~20F cooler).  In addition to hot hot heat in the summer time, Jerez experiences essentially drought conditions from June through October.  Grapes growing in this environment need to be tough.  The luckiest vines grow smack-dab in the middle of the Sherry Triangle (the 3-town triangle, which forms the nucleus of Jerez).  In this sweet spot, spongy, water-retaining Albariza soils slake the thirst of hot grapes during the hostile growing season.  Albariza is a chalky, calcareous soil.  In fact, vineyard sites within Jerez are ranked by the amount and depth of calcareous minerals within the soil.

Very Simply Sherry I

Cross-posted at the Scotch Blog - an excellent resource for Whisky imbibers.

Sherry is one of the wine world's most undervalued creations.  Sherry's history alone could fill up a War and Peace-sized volume.  Additionally, the production of Sherry, and its numerous styles, is complex enough to add a second volume to Sherry's tome.  When confronted by Sherry & its vocabulary, many modern wine drinkers become dazed & confused by terms like flor, fino, olorosa, criadera and solera. It's easier to walk on by.  However, a little time investment in understanding Sherry, will open up an entirely new world of wine scents and flavors.  Allow me to present Sherry in a user friendly, 3-part format.  Who knows, you may experience the sudden urge to grab a bottle and whip up a few tapas.  It could happen.

Part 1:  Make Sherry, Not War

Sherry is produced within a 3-town triangle in the southern Spanish community of Andalusia.  By far, the key town in the history of Sherry is Jerez de la Frontera (Puerto de Santa Maria and Sanlucar de Barrameda being the other two towns).  Jerez has been home to a who's who of civilizations.  Evidence suggests Jerez may have been founded by the Phoenicians in 1100 BC.  These ancient folk were succeeded by the Carthignians, who were in turn kicked out by the Romans.  The Romans called Jerez, "Certium."  Alas, the Romans were squeezed out in the first century AD by Vandals, who, in turn, were forced to vacate by the Visigoths.  Then came the epic battles between Islamic Moors and Christian re-conquestors.  Amazingly, during these centuries of successive occupation and frequent war, wine production continued in Jerez.  By the 15th Century, Jerez and its satellite towns began exporting wine to both England and France.  In fact, many British merchants moved into the Sherry region to take advantage of this rapidly growing wine trade.

I Need Three Eyes

Rosé wine is one of my favorite warm-weather beverages. I lived in France for 13 years, and learned to love this coral-colored delight during a couple of summers spent in the Minervois region. My daughter was conceived there, and when she was a baby, we used to joke that the color of her cheeks was the exact color of the wine that we drank so much of. (Before you start clucking your tongues, I had no idea I was pregnant, and stopped drinking as soon as I found out. And my daughter has turned out to be an intelligent, beautiful creature). Rosé became a summer tradition for my family and friends. It's perfect on its own or with a meal. 

The only thing I don't like in a rosé is too much sweetness. Don't even try to serve me a white zinfandel; I won't drink it (and I lurve wine). This isn't such an issue in France, although some rosés are sweeter than others. What I do like in a rosé is a deep color and a fruity nature. I want it to taste like a rosé; I want it to refresh me and lift my spirits.

Ten Buck Tuesday: The Spanish Leviathan

When it comes to the $8-$12 sweet spot for wine of all kinds - red, white & bubbly; Spain reigns supreme.  While my heart may be with value wine 'under dogs' like Portugal and Austria, I must give the Kingdom of Spain its due.  However, I do have one minor gripe.  Many of Spain's wine offerings seem to be of the modern, "kaboom fruit" variety.  Still, many of these wines aren't necessarily off-putting.  They are more or less easy-drinking, if not slightly generic, wines.

Countries who attempt to throw down with Spain in the 'ten buck' department, are invariably forced to say to España, "No mas.  No mas."

One thing I have noticed of late is the gaggle of Garnacha (Grenache) flocking to the wine shop from nearly every Spanish Denomination with which I'm familar (and a few new to me).  Take for example, Artazuri Tinto, part of Eric Solomon's seemingly endless supply of Spanish imports.  This wine comes from the Navarra region - a neighbor to Rioja. I was expecting it to be the usual bargain-Grenache mix of berry jam scents along with a touch of pepper.  Surprise!  Artazuri has produced an outstanding character-full wine for ten bucks.

The Skinny
Artazuri Navarra Tinto 2003 ($9-$10)

• Old vine Grenache (~50 years) from Navarra in north-central Spain
• Bright ruby in color
• Scents of fresh red raspberry and cherry; along with some, uhh, briar/brambly notes
• Tart red cherry flavors with distinct acidity.  There are also subtle flavors of peppery spice and hints of green bell pepper (Is this wine really from sunny Spain?)

This is one of the more unique expressions of Grenache that I've sampled in some time.  I recommend sipping it slightly chilled.  It would make a tasty pairing with a satisfying Stephencooks dish such as pork and porcini meatloaf.

Technorati Tags: spanish wine, red wine, wine

Basque-ing in the Spotlight

(Editor's note: This is the first in a series of posts by guest authors whose own blogs are under-appreciated/under-visited.  If you are new to wine blogging, or host a blog out in the remote reaches of wineblogistan, contact me with a post proposal, and we'll see if we can't deliver more winos to your site.)

Guest Author: Jameson of Le Wine Blog

As an homage to Beau, how could I not start with a groan-inducing, punny title for my post? Beau, I kid because I care! And you are well aware that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.

Moving on, I had my first ever Basque wine. I believe that this wine would win the ultimate prize for:

Most…Difficult…Hand…Sell… Ever.

I can imagine the conversation in the wine shop:

Innocent Thirsty Customer: “Hi, what can you tell me about this wine?”

Lover of Obscure Wines: “Why, this is the 2005 Arabako Txakolina Xarmat.”

ITC: “Umm….”

LOOW: “It’s from the Arabako Txakolina DO in the Basque region of Spain.”

ITC: “Umm…”

LOOW: “It’s a blend of Honarribi Zurri, Gros Manseng, Petit Manseng, and Petit Courbu.”

ITC: [Head Exploding]

Txacoli, Chacoli

On a recent trip to Seattle, I nabbed two bottles of Basque wine - a red from France and a white from Spain.  The red overwhelmed me with its Tannat-ness.  The white lit a curiosity fuse for Basque wine.

Txacoli (Chacoli in Spanish) is the Basque version of Vinho Verde or Muscadet.  There are three Chacoli denominations (AKA appellations) along the relatively rainy (58 in/yr) Biscay coast:  Chacoli- de Alava (50 hectares of vines), de Bizkaia (120 ha) and de Guetaria (140 ha). These low-alcohol white wines are typically crisp and possesses a charming prickle of petillance, which seems to say, "I'm fresh & zesty."  In fact, this slightly sparkling character is prized by Basque folk.  Traditionally, Txacoli is poured sparingly - an inch or less at a time into small tumblers to preserve the baby bubbles throughout a meal.  Unsurprisingly, this wine is tailor made for all manner of seafood.

Most Txakoli is made from two native grape varieties:  Hondarrabi Zuri and Hondarrabi Beltza.  H. Zuri is a white grape, which typically dominates the blend.  H. Beltza is a red grape, which serves as the 'secret spice' seasoning in Txakokli wines.  Modern versions of this wine are commonly fermented in stainless steel, and on the lees (i.e. sur lie).  I have only one Txakoli under my belt, and I am already a true believer.

The Skinny
Ameztoi Txakolina 2004 ($~15)

• 11% alcohol.  Made from 90% Hondarribi Zuri and 10% Hondarribi Beltza
• From the Getariako Txakolina D.O.  on Spain's northern coast
• Light straw yellow in color with noticeable petillance
• At first sniff, this wine exudes heavy duty 'mineral water' minerality.  As it warms, scents of green apple, fresh pear  and citrus evolve
• In the mouth, this wine is light-bodied and crisp.  It offers simple flavors paired to a surprisingly complex mouthfeel.  Ameztoi begins as a bracing, dry wine, but finishes with a rich, creamy texture.  Both tasty and interesting

The easy food match with this wine is seafood.  Yet, in my Txacoli ignorance, I stumbled upon an interesting pairing with homemade chicken curry.  The wine's acidity served as a handy palate reset button throughout the meal - It prevented curry fatigue.

I thoroughly enjoyed this wine for its style, history and food-amigo-ness.  If you see a Txakolina, snatch it up, chill it, pour it in a tumbler and enjoy.

Tags: spanish wine, white wine, basque wine, wine

Dueling Asparagus

A bit of apocryphal history* for you: Cleopatra, of lethal-asp-clutching fame, is purported to have ended it all with a spear of asparagus rather than the oft-reported venomous serpent. My reaction to asparagus isn’t quite as dramatic as the Nile Queen’s. However, few vegetables, when mismatched to wine, mete out palate punishment like the shoots of Asparagus officinalis.

Continue reading the rest @ W.Sed.

And the Winner is..

And the winner in our winner takes all, steel cage flavor death match is....strong like a bull.  In fact, it's from a place called Toro.  It takes chipotle spice and tames it with the crack of a concentrated flavor whip.  What's that?  You're concerned the asparagus might throw a wrench in the whole thing and pollute the plate with metallic flavors or odd, green weediness?  Not to worry, Tinta de Toro is on the case.  This wine's vibrant acidity, round tannins and savory spice notes, put Asparagus the Menace in the corner and make it behave like a good little vegetable.  Now, we're home-free, save for Gorgonzola toasts.  And there's nothing better than intense bleu paired to heavy-duty red wine.  It's easy as pie....ooo, who wants pie?

The Skinny
Bodega y Viñedos Garanza 'Cyan' Crianza 2001 ($20)

• 100% Tinta de Toro (AKA Tempranillo) from the Toro denomination in Castile y Leon (Northwest Spain)
• Aged 14 months in 4-year old French and American oak barrels prior to bottling.
• Deep, dark cherry in color with a distinct garnet rim.
• Intense scents of black berries, dried cherry and pepper.
• Full-bodied with 'chewy' tannins and bold flavor.  Intensely flavored food is a preqrequisite to handle this big, modern Spanish wine.

Tags: spanish wine, wine

Spain: Old School Pink & White

As you may know by now, The Gray Lady has dipped her toe into the wineblogging pool.  For deep thoughts into what this might mean for wineblogdom, visit Vinography or Fermentation.  My take is this: More eyeballs on wine blogs is a good thing.  More people reading passionate, down-to-earth wine writing is an even better thing.  And more wine lovers discovering new & exciting wine is superterrific.

However, I'm most excited about Eric A's initial post on a Spanish Rosé from Rioja.  This aint no day-glo rosé  It's old school.  I love this wine.  Or rather, I was planning on loving this wine.  You see, a few months ago during a trip to New York, I purchased Heredia's Viña Tondonia Rosado (1995).  But then something tragic happened.  I forgot the bottle when I checked out of my hotel and never heard from it again.  So sad.

Reading about such a unique Spaniard, reminded me of my initial experience with traditional white Rioja made by the same producer - Bodegas R. Lopez de Heredia.  It is equally unique:

Old School White Rioja
(originally published 27 Oct. 2004)

Back in the day (read: the early 90's and before) White Rioja of Spain was one of the most uniqe white wines around.  Sadly, today the creeping global wine style is erasing many of these wine gems.

New Music Tuesday: Jukebox 45's

I ran across this album on emusic and downloaded it immediately.  Jukebox 45's is a compilation of abstract hip-hop, bizarre 70s funk, acid rock and breakbeat by DJ Peanut Butter Wolf.  The oddest and most enjoyable track is "My 2600" an old school Atari game cartridge shout-out (!!) laid over smoove groovy funk by 'Captain Funkaho.' Have a listen: Download 13824243.m3u.  Preview all the tracks here.

This album puts me in the mood for some solid bubbly.  Groove to it with a Cava by Can Feixes (imported into the US by Classical Wines): Huguet Gran Reserva Cava Brut Nature 2001 ($24).  This wine is more complex than most non-Champagne bubbly.  It's also Sahara-desert-in-a-bottle dry ('Brut Nature' indicates no dosage was added).  Huguet Cava will literally get your juices flowing (at least in your mouth anyway) while you let this PB Wolf album seep into your head.

Groovy.

A Duo for the Solo

Occasionally I dismiss wine that seems food-hostile.  The reason being is that I normally pair wine with lunch or dinner.  Thus I look for wines that compliment rather than clobber.  With the exception of fortified and dessert wines, drinking wine solo isn't something I do.  However, I've sampled two wines recently, that, while not terribly compatible with food and my palate, do seem suited for solo sipping.  Call them, "a Duo for the Solo."

Logan Chardonnay Sleepy Hollow Vineyard 2001 ($14)
I have the damnedest time with ultra- buttery, smooth, tubby Chardonnay.  While they offer sexy scents, few possess enough food-friendly acidity.  As a result, once in the mouth, these wines bear-hug the tongue, and reluctantly give up taste bud real estate.  Thus, many food flavors are dulled rather than enhanced.  I wouldn't classify Logan Chardonnay as food-hostile - perhaps food-stand offish.  Still, I found this wine hard to resist.  It offers the typical vanilla-caramel-tropical fruit scents expected in California Chardonnay.  Yet there is also an added layer of complexity abiding below the bluster.  The stand out here is a Kalamata olive aroma (no, I'm not nuts - I detected this aroma during two different sampling sessions; as did my co-taster).  The olive aroma carries through to the palate along with a buttery mouthfeel.  Very pleasant.  If I owned a bar and wanted to offer happy hour by-the-glass specials, this wine would be at the top of the list. 

On a somewhat related note, the Logan label is part of Talbott Vineyards.  The Talbott name is perhaps more closely associated with mens wear.  As a debonaire sixteen year old, I pinched a bright pink Robert Talbott tie from my uncle to wear to prom.  I'm proud to report that it was the only pink cravat at this semi-formal shindig (I don't think my date fully appreciated this bold fashion statement).

Capçanes 'Mas Donis' 2002 ($8-$11)
As far as $10-$12 wines go, Mas Donis is a fine value.  It comes from the Spanish wine producing region of Montsant - a neighbor of Priorat, and not too far from Barcelona.  Capçanes, a wine producing cooperative, originally gained notoriety as a kosher wine producer for the Jewish population in Barcelona.  Then the folks at Eric Solomon's European Cellars partnered with the cooperative with the aim of producing wine for the American market.  This meant bigger, bolder wines passing through "extensive oak regimes."  Mas Donis is a blend of Garnacha and Syrah.  It's full of ripe black cherry & sweet vanilla spice scents.  I think it's lacking in the acidity department, and a bit heavy in the alcohol & residual sugar arena.  However, the wine is certainly not off-putting (as long as it keeps its distance from my dinner table).  Again, as a happy hour by-the-glass wine, Mas Donis definitely works.

Tags: spanish wine, california wine, wine

Drink Pedro

In the late 17th Century, a German soldier by the name of Peter Hirtzman decided to flee the fighting near the North Sea.  Being both a pacifist and a viticulture hobbyist, he took a few cuttings and traveled to southern Spain - the region of Jerez to be exact.  Peter soon discovered that one of his white grape varietals flourished in this warm, very non-German climate.  In fact, the locals were so impressed with Herr Hirtzman's wine, they began purchasing vines from him.  In time the famous wines of Jerez, or Sherry, relied heavily on this German's grape.  Sadly, Peter was forgotten and his name, also given to the grapes, españo-morphed into "Pedro Ximenez."

A fascinating story, no?  Yet it's 100% false.  A version of this story was told to me by a wine educator, who also happened to be a Sherry lover.  It's likely that this bogus story is a derivative of the classic Pedro Ximenez myth, which appears in a number of sources:

"The grape reputedly takes its name from a 17th-century Spanish soldier who introduced it to Spain on his return from The Netherlands, although the story is almost certainly apocryphal as no Rhine grape resembles PX and there is no reason why such a northerly grape would grow in southern Spain."

Unfortunately, in addition to apochryphal tales surrounding its origins, the PX grape also suffers from outright character assasination:

"The grape is also grown in the regions of Valencia, Canary Islands and Extremadura, and occasionally also used in making a poorly-rated table wine."

Whoever authored the above passage in