Basic Juice

Great Moments in Wine & Food Pairing

1. Gorgonzola, toasted walnuts & Vintage (or Tawny) Port
2. Sauternes & terrine de fois gras
3. Roasted, spiced sweet potatoes & Barbera d’Alba?

Sometimes the greatest discoveries are unintentional.  I was craving a non-fruity red and selected Boroli’s "Bricco dei Fagiani" Barbera d’Alba DOC Superiore, 2001 ($30).  Ms. Chef was already roasting spiced sweet potatoes.  I had doubts about the compatibility between this tuberous root creation and Piedmont vino.  But it worked out well (of course the roasted le poulet made the dinner complete)

Surprisingly, this Barbera’s bone-dry dried fruit & herb character was the perfect foil to the salty/spicy/earthy/sweet flavors of the roasted sweet potatoes.

The spiced sweet potato recipe is here

QuickTake for Boroli’s Barbera:  This is an intense, concentrated version of Piemontese Barbera.  However, it remains true to ‘old school’ Barbera with scents of dried herbs, tart cherries, and redcurrants.  Boroli adds some ‘new school’ flair with hints of vanilla and wood.  While full-bodied in the mouth, the wine remains decidedly crisp.  It then gives way to a long, warming finish.  3.5 stars out of 5

*snap* Bologna Pork Loin

Occasionally I tackle a recipe that sounds tasty. Yet as I'm measuring out the 30th ingredient, I realize just how sick & tired of cooking I am. Sometimes complicated recipes yield ambrosia. Sometimes they just yield average tasting food. Give me a pork loin, jug o' milk, and some S&P; and I'm happy as a clam.

Pork Loin Bolognese

1.5-2.5 lbs pork loin
2 T olive oil
2 cups whole milk (2% just won't cut it. And don't even think about skim)

Le Quack?

When I first heard the name of this easy-but-tasty appetizer, I thought, "Mmmm, duck."  Not exactly.

Duxelles

Ingredients (4 servings)

1 oz. Shallots, chopped
3 cups mushrooms, finely chopped (not washed - I prefer to carefully brush off the mushrooms, mixed, wild)
1 T butter
Juice of 1/2 lemon plus dry white wine or sherry

Sweat shallots in butter for 5 minutes – cook until translucent, but do not allow them to color.  Add chopped mushrooms and lemon juice to a small saucepan containing the shallots.  Cover with a parchment paper lid, cut to size of pan with small hole cut in center.  Cook on medium heat until all moisture has evaporated.  Transfer duxelles to bowl and cover until needed.

Couple duxelles to fresh baguette slices to make a fabulous, wine-friendly party snack.  It can also guest star in an all-burgundy evening, white or red.

better than Mayo

Rosemary Aïoli

3/4 cup mayonnaise
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

Whisk all ingredients in small bowl to blend. Season to taste with salt and pepper. (Aioli can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover with plastic and refrigerate.)

Makes ~1 cup

Try it shmeared on a roasted or smoked turkey breast sandwich.  A simple Pinot Noir, bubbly, or zesty white would round out this little delight.

Ahoy! Fruits de Mer

I'm a landlubber.  Was born a landlubber, was able to do a bit of the coastal/seafaring life, but now have returned to landlubberhood.  Sigh.

And one thing I don't know well is my fruits de mer.  But I am trying.  Salt Lake City is fortunate to have a a very good fish market.  I am availing myself of its goods and trying to learn how to dine on sea produce.

My first attempt was Big-eye Tuna & seaweed salad.  The recipe:

1/2 lbs sushi grade Big-eye Tuna
1/2 T toasted sesame seeds
1/2 t sesame oil
2 T soy sauce
1 T spicy Thai pepper sauce
1 t unseasoned rice wine vinegar
1/2 Cayenne pepper flakes

Cut tuna into small cubes (1/2")
Whisk dressing ingredients in small bowl and drizzle desired amount over tuna
(I chickened out on the whole seaweed salad part - I simply purchased a freshly pre-made one and it was surprisingly good)

I experimented just a bit with the wine pairing for this.  The first impulse was, of course Riesling or Gewurz.  However, I decided to zag and paired it with an Aussie:  Primo Estate La Biondina (Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, and Colombard).  The wine's tangy, lemongrass-y quality was the perfect foil for rich, umami-laden tuna with salty-spicy dressing.

Swanky Snacks: Truffle Popcorn

Wanna throw a swank cocktail party; but, don't feel like busting your hump?
First off, start with bubbly*:  Champagne, Cava, Prosecco, or Sparkling Wine.

Now you're 3/4 of the way to a swank party.  Wiggle over the swank-finish line by dishing up this little bar snack:


Truffle-Popcorn

• 1 or more bags microwave popcorn (Do I really need to explain how to pop the stuff?)
• Black truffle oil (it's expensive, but you'll only be using an eensy bit)

Pop the popcorn - be sure not to burn it!  Pour a small amount of popcorn into daiquiri/margarita glasses.  Just before serving, drizzle a very small amount of truffle oil over popcorn.  Enjoy the party.

*Surprisingly, a dense, dark, brooding red wine will work as well.

Spanish Mexican

Spain and Mexico have a shared history, which goes back hundreds of years. Yet how often do we see this history shared in the kitchen? Spanish tapas are rarely, if ever, offered with Pacifico. Alternatively, I've never observed Chili Rellenos recommended with a red wine from Rioja. Admittedly, some Spanish-Mexican pairings don't seem like such a good idea: Tacos and Sherry, J. Cuervo and Paella, etc.

This weekend I played the role of culinary explorador. I discovered the mouthwatering Spanish-Mexican match known as Cava & Fajitas.

First, the Cava
Cava is Spanish sparkling wine. It is made in much the same way as Champagne. However, it's much less expensive, considerably simpler-tasting, and generally more aggressively bubbly than Champagne. There are a number of good, readily available Cavas from the Spanish giants Freixenet and Codorniu. I recently discovered Gramona Gran Cuvee Cava, '01 ($15) (from the same folks who brought me this languor-lifting white wine). Gramona is a cut above basic Cava in the complexity department. It offers scents of apple and citrus paired to a creamy texture, and a flavor-boosting, crisp finish.

Coffee Ribs (good to the last drop!)

Last Friday, I tried my hand at semi-spontaneous barbecue sauce for chicken thighs.  Sad, but true - my Friday night excitement has become this: Hanging out in the kitchen concocting barbecue sauce.  Recently, I've also noticed an odd urge to watch the Weather Channel.  Perhaps I'm a fuddy-duddy.  Perhaps I'm a BBQ-sauce makin fool...

Sunday, I wanted "weird" barbecue sauce for baby back ribs.  I found a few recipes calling for espresso.  Of course, I had to experiment.  I created (sort of) the soon-to-be famous coffee ribs (good to the last drop!).  Actually, I modified this recipe.  And the results were mighty tasty.

Chili Rubbed Baby Back Ribs With Dark Roast Coffee Barbecue Sauce
(makes enough spice rub & sauce for 3-4 lbs ribs)
For the rub:
1 T Cayenne pepper powder
1 T Chipotle powder
1 T smoked paprika
1 T ground cumin
1.5 t salt
1 t ground black pepper

Whisk rub ingredients together in small bowl.  Rub spice mixture all over ribs.

Wine Rx: Acid Injection via Tomato

In nearly any food and wine pairing situation, the question is:  What foods will pair well with my chosen wine?

I experimented with a little food-wine chemistry last night and turned the tables on this question...

The Wine:  Chateau d’Aqueria Tavel, ’04 ($18)
The Problem:  This is a pleasant little rosé.  Yet, for eighteen bucks I yearn for more pizzazz and complexity.
The Hypothesis:  Crisp, mouth-watering wines (high acid:sugar ratio) wake up the taste buds and enable a diner to taste complexities in otherwise subtle food.  So why not wake up taste buds with acidic food and enable a wine lover to taste complexities in otherwise subtle/bland wine?
The Experiment:  Acid injection via perfectly ripe tomatoes

Greek Style Cherry Tomatoes
1 lbs fresh, ripe cherry tomatoes, halved
1/2 cup chopped green onions
4-5 oz feta cheese, crumbled
3 T chopped fresh parsley
1 T chopped fresh dill
2-3 T extra-virgin olive oil

Mix ingredients in bowl and allow to rest at room temperature for 20-30 minutes.

This little concoction can be served over penne, angel hair, or baguette toasts

The Result:  I sipped my chilled rosé while preparing this recipe.  And I wasn’t impressed.  The wine wasn’t bad, but it didn’t really do a whole lot in my mouth.  However, after a few bites of high acid tomatoes and salty feta, the wine woke up.  In addition to vague berry scents and flavors, I detected a little sweet spice, along with some pepper.  My wine didn’t completely come alive, but it did tickle my tongue rather than doze on top of it.

The Conclusion:  Sometimes it pays to think about what food can do to liven up timid vino.  Tasting the ’04 Tavel by itself, I would have awarded it two stars.  Yet paired with tomatoes & co., I gave it three stars (out of 5).

Take this beer can and...

My better half claims not to like chicken.  Yet, for someone who doesn’t like the original white meat, she really wanted to try one of those infamous beer can chicken recipes.  There are dozens of versions of this recipe.  I loosely followed one from Cook’s Country magazine.

The recipe in a nutshell:  Add various herbs to a third-full (or third-empty - depending on your personality type) can of beer.  Then shove/slide/place/insert said can into the business end of a whole chicken*

*Make sure this is legal in your state/province/territory

The recipe in detail:

CousCousChicken Salad

I ran across this recipe by Meg in Paris at Too Many Chefs.  The ingredients in this couscous grilled chicken salad intrigued me, so I riffed on it..

Things I altered:

• Instead of steaming the broccoli, I brushed the florets with olive oil and placed them in the suspended grill basket on the gas grill.  I grilled the broccoli for about five minutes and wrapped it in foil
• I used tri-color sundried tomato, basil & spinach couscous
• Mos of the herbs in the market looked rather limp, so my dressing was simply finely chopped shallot, fresh lemon juice, and olive oil

This is a great change of pace from your run-of-the-mill chicken salad.  Sadly I paired it with a rather disappointing Tocai Friulano.  But the salad's flavors were spicy enough and savory enough to make the meal enjoyable.

Fun with Orzo

Back in the day when I was in Albania, I ate a whole lot of Orzo.  Since that time, I don't believe I've even eaten Orzo once.  This recipe got me all misty eyed and nostalgic for Shqiperi.  Try it with an easy-drinking Torrontes or bubbly.

Orzo Pasta Salad (modified from epicurious.com)

Empanadas!

Now for some Spanish food fun:

Empanadas (modified from Cellar Tastings)

Ingredients

2 tins ready-made croissant (as in Pilsbury) dough
3/4 pound of pork loin, thinly sliced
1 t paprika or smoked paprika
3 T olive oil
1/2 t dried oregano
1/2 cup piquillo pimentos, sliced
3 onions chopped
2 T chopped garlic
1 can chopped tomatoes (or 3 fresh roma tomatoes, chopped)
2 T chopped parsley
Salt and pepper
1 large red bell pepper, chopped
2 hard boiled eggs
1 egg, beaten

Preparation

Place the sliced pork in a dish with the paprika, 1 T chopped garlic, oregano, salt and pepper and let it sit for 45 minutes in a cool place.

Heat oil in a skillet (medium-high heat) and sauté pork for 2-4 minutes, removing slices as they are browned.

Using the same oil, sauté the onions, chopped peppers and remaining garlic until softened. Add the prepared tomatoes, parsley, salt and pepper and cook until the tomatoes are reduced and the sauce is very thick.

Roll out one tin dough to 1/4 inch thickness on a floured board. Then line a cake tin with the dough. Spread this with half the prepared sauce. Arrange the slices of pork loin on top and add a layer of piquillo pimentos above that. Slice the boiled eggs and layer above other ingredients. Add the remaining sauce.

Roll out the rest of the dough and cover the pie. Crimp the edges together and trim the excess. Create a small hole in the center to allow steam to vent. Place in an oven at 425F for 20 minutes. Brush the top with beaten egg and bake another 15-20 minutes.

This dish begs for a couple of different wines - to accent different flavors.  Try it with a Portuguese Vinho Verde and Spanish red from Rioja, Priorat, or Somontano.

Wicked Good Le Poulet

Sometimes, simple is better.  In the case of roast chicken, I've often found that the more I try to do/add, the less rewarding the final result becomes.  With thanks to Cook's Illustrated, I discovered the best & easiest way to roast le Poulet.

Wicked Good & Mind-bogglingly Simple Roast Chicken

• One whole chicken (in the 2-4 pound range - free range is better for a variety of reasons), cleaned, rinsed, and patted dry on the inside & out

• Kosher salt

• Fresh ground black pepper

• 2 t finely chopped thyme

• Unsalted butter

Preheat oven to 450F

Salt & pepper inside of chicken.  Using cooking twine, tightly tie wings together and legs together - covering breast.  Uniformly coat chicken with salt.  Add pepper to taste.

Using a cooling rack (or something similar) place chicken (back-side up) on top of roasting pan.  Place in oven and roast for 30 minutes.  Turn chicken over and roast for another 30-40 minutes.

Remove from oven.  Sprinkle thyme over chicken and wrap in foil.  Let rest for 10-15 minutes.  Remove twine, slather with a little butter, and dig in!  Utensils are optional.

This is one wine-flexible dish.  Try an exuberant red (something along the lines of a Beaujolais Cru), a weighty white, or even a pink wine if the mood strikes.

Swanky Snacks: Truffle-Popcorn

Wanna throw a swank cocktail party; but, don't feel like busting your hump?
First off, start with bubbly*:  Champagne, Cava, Prosecco, or Sparkling Wine.

Now you're 3/4 of the way to a swank party.  Wiggle over the swank-finish line by dishing up this little bar snack:


Truffle-Popcorn

• 1 or more bags microwave popcorn (Do I really need to explain how to pop the stuff?)
• Black truffle oil (it's expensive, but you'll only be using a tinsy bit)

Pop the popcorn - be sure not to burn it!  Pour a small amount of popcorn into daiquiri/margarita glasses.  Just before serving, drizzle a very small amount of truffle oil over popcorn.  Enjoy the party.

*Surprisingly, a dense, dark, brooding red wine will work as well.

Spicy Peanut Sauce

Spicy Thai Peanut Sauce

• 3 garlic cloves, minced
•  1/2 t dried hot red pepper flakes, or to taste
•  1 T vegetable or peanut oil
•  1 T tomato paste
•  4 T creamy peanut butter (as in Jif or Skippy)
•  3 T hoisin sauce
•  1/2 t sugar
•  3/4 cup water

In a small saucepan cook garlic and red pepper flakes in oil over moderate heat, stirring, until garlic is golden. Whisk in remaining ingredients and bring to a boil, whisking. Simmer sauce, whisking, until thickened, about 1 minute. Sauce may be made 3 days ahead and chilled, covered.

Serve sauce warm or at room temperature.

Slather this sauce on spring or summer rolls, pork or chicken satays, or your finger.

Wine recommendations
Value-priced: Smoking Loon Viognier, ’02 ($9) from California
Well-priced:  Dr. Loosen Riesling, '02 ($13) from Germany
Fun-match:  Domaine Zind Humbrecht Gewurztraminer

Funk Week: Basque Lamb Shanks

I'm not a big fan of lamb chops, or lamb that is cooked any way other than slowwww roasted.  The taste is a bit too gamey/funky for me.

But when lamb is slow roasted, it becomes wonderfully full-flavored with earthy/funky accents.  I stumbled upon this recipe and then promptly modified it to my tastes.

Basque Lamb Shanks
4 Lamb shanks
4 T olive oil
8 Cloves garlic, peeled
1/2 Lbs Cremini mushrooms
3/4 cup chicken broth
1/2 cup dry red wine (a Spanish Rioja works well here)
1 cup Navy/Northern white beans
3 Thin slices of fresh lemon
Salt & Pepper to taste
1/2 T dried oregano
1/2 cup fresh parsley

1. Preheat oven to 325F.  Salt & pepper shanks.  Brown shanks in dutch oven/roasting pan over medium heat with 2 T olive oil.  Remove shanks and wrap in foil.
2. Add 4 cloves of garlic and mushrooms.  Brown well.  Add chicken broth and wine to pan.  Return shanks to pan.  Sprinkle oregano over shanks and cover with lemon slices.  Bring broth & wine to boil.  Remove from heat.
3. Roast covered in oven at 325F for 35 minutes per pound - or until meat falls off bone.  Baste with broth occasionally to keep meat moist.
4. Meanwhile prepare beans.  If using dry beans, boil with 4 cloves of garlic until tender.  If using canned beans, bring to boil with garlic, cover, and simmer on low heat until meat is ready.
5. Remove bones from shanks.  Add beans to meat and heat through.

Serve with pan sauce and lots of crusty bread.

The wine?  Something funky.  Try Chateau Musar, Rioja Gran Reserva, or Salice Salentino.  Or visit the Caveman's wine blog.  He'll show you some great wine.

Funk Week: Funky Butter

What's the best way to kick-off Funk Week?  How about something that you can slather on a burger bun or baguette in order to make your dinner instantly funky.

Butter?  Not very funky.
Stilton Cheese?  Funky.
Black Truffle Oil?  FFFFunky.

Stilton-Truffle Funky Butter

• 1/4 lbs Stilton cheese, softened
• 1/2 stick unsalted butter, softened
• 1/8 to 1/4 t black truffle oil (depending on your funk preference and/or tolerance)

In a small bowl stir together cheese and butter until smooth.  Drizzle truffle oil and stir to blend.  On a sheet of plastic wrap or wax paper form S-T Funky Butter into a log or cube.  Wrap it up and chill it until firm - a minimum of one hour before use, to a maximum of one week before use.

Slather this spreadable funk on slices of roasted beef, buffalo burger, or a piece of crusty bread.

Wine pairing tip:  You're going to need a funky red wine.  Try Montecillo Rioja Crianza, Campo Ardosa, or Fairview Pinotage (if you can handle the funk factor maxxed out).

Alsatian Inspiration

Ever get the urge to bake?  Aside from the occasional batch of cookies, I rarely bake - let alone bake my dinner.  So, for whatever reason, today I wanted an onion tart.  And nobody does onion tarts like the Alsatians.

Semi-Healthy (hey Spinach is good for you) Onion Tart (with bacon and cheese)
(modified from Bon Appetit, 2002)

Crust
1 cup unbleached all purpose flour
1/4 t salt
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) chilled unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
2 T chilled solid vegetable shortening, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
2 T+ ice water

Filling
3 bacon slices, chopped
1 large onion, thinly sliced
Pinch of sugar
1 cup whipping cream
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
1/4 t ground black pepper
1 t salt
1/4 t ground nutmeg
2 cups baby spinach
1/2 cup coarsely grated Fontina (or to be more trational - Gruyère) cheese

For crust:
Blend flour and salt in processor. Add butter and shortening; cut in until mixture resembles coarse meal. Add 2 tablespoons ice water and process until moist clumps form, adding more ice water by teaspoonfuls if dough is dry. Gather dough into ball; flatten into disk. Wrap in plastic and chill at least 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 400°F. Roll out dough on lightly floured work surface to 11-inch round. Transfer to 9-inch tart pan with removable bottom. Press dough onto bottom and up sides of pan. Pierce crust all over with fork. Freeze 10 minutes. Line crust with foil; fill with dried beans or pie weights. Bake crust 10 minutes. Remove foil and beans. Bake until crust is set and partially cooked through, about 15 minutes longer. Cool crust while making filling. Maintain oven temperature.

For filling:
Sauté bacon in medium skillet over medium heat until crisp, about 4 minutes. Transfer bacon to paper towels to drain. Add onion and pinch of sugar to drippings in skillet and sauté until onion is deep golden brown, about 20 minutes. Whisk cream, egg, egg yolk, pepper, salt, and nutmeg in small bowl to blend. Spread onion over bottom of baked crust; sprinkle bacon over, then spinach leaves, then cheese. Pour cream mixture over.

Bake until tart is puffed and filling is set, about 15-20 minutes. Cool tart on rack 10 minutes. Remove pan sides. Serve at room temperature.

And what could be better with this tart than an Alsatian Riesling, Gewurz, or Pinot Blanc.  Try one of Trimbach's creations.  Or an NZ Riesling is a nice substitute.

D.I.Y. Sommelier: Viognier

In many ways, Viognier is the white wine equivalent of Pinot Noir:  It's difficult to grow, most low-priced Viognier tastes like oily-bad-Chardonnay, and it masquerades as a red wine in a white wine costume (whereas Pinot is quite like a white wine in a red wine cloak).

Viognier shines in its ancestral home - the Northern Rhône Valley.  Two Rhône appellations allow this grape to bask in all its glory:  Condrieu and Château Grillet (click map).

Let's pair this wine with something that is easy-easy to make:  Grilled Shrimp & Tomato Jam

Why does Viognier pair well with this dish?  Grilled shrimp offers smoky and succulent flavors.  Well-made Viognier, while quite full-bodied, also possesses a bit of acidity that knifes through succulent flavors - making them, well, more succulent.  The shrimp smokiness is a good counter balance to the aromatic Viognier.  Tomato Jam is both acidic and sweet.  Viognier is often rich and viscous in the mouth.  Combine these flavors & textures and your mouth will be happy.

So, the next time you're having dinner and your entree is grilled and/or succulent (hello lobster tail in butter), think Viognier.  Or if you find yourself at home and get a hankerin to make something with a Mediterranean flavor, think Viognier.

3 Good Viognier-based wines in 3 price ranges:

1. Smoking Loon Viognier, '03 ($8-$9) - Believe it!  Sub-$9 Viognier that tastes like Viognier
2. Terre Rouge Viognier, '00/'01 ($25-$30) - A big wine with added oak-heft
3. Guigal "La Doriane" Condrieu, '01 ($60-ish) - De-lightful, de-licious, de-lovely

Turkey in Jade

I wanted to make something 'hand-held' to celebrate the Chinese New Year - the year of the rooster.  Here's what I came up with:

Turkey in Jade
(modified from Epicurious)

4 scallions, chopped
1 large head romaine lettuce or another wide/long-leaf lettuce of your choice
1 lb lean ground turkey
2 t honey
4 T soy sauce
3 T rice vinegar
3 cloves garlic, minced
3 T finely grated & peeled fresh ginger
1 T Worcestershire sauce
1/2 c water
1 t sugar
2 t corn starch
2 t vegetable oil (I used canola, but peanut oil would also work)
1/2 t Asian/toasted sesame oil
1 c fresh mint leaves, coarsely chopped

Optional accompaniment: rice (if you're into that whole carbs thing)

• In a bowl mix turkey, 1 teaspoon honey, 1 tablespoon each soy sauce & vinegar, and garlic, and 2 tablespoons ginger until just combined. Cover and marinate for about 15 minutes at room temp
• In a small bowl whisk together Worcestershire sauce, water, sugar, corn starch, and remaining teaspoon honey, 3 tablespoons soy sauce, and 2 tablespoons vinegar
• In a wok or large non-stick skillet heat vegetable oil over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking
• Sautee turkey mixture, stirring and breaking up lumps, until just cooked through, about 3 minutes.
• Add sauce and stir
• Add scallions and stir-fry mixture until sauce is thickened and turkey is cooked through, about 5 minutes
• Remove wok or skillet from heat and stir in sesame oil and salt and pepper to taste

Dish into lettuce leaves.  Top with fresh mint.  Fold or roll leaves like a 'taco' or 'burrito.'  Eat and enjoy.
Yummy and no forks involved!

Believe it or not I had this with Kris Pinot Grigio, '02 ($13) and it worked quite well.  Other options would be a Riesling, dry Gewurztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, or even a slightly chilled Aussie Grenache.

the Black Diamond

From Strat's Place:

For thousands of year, the truffle, one of nature's noblest gastronomic ingredients has been synonymous with banquets, conviviality and unforgettable moments of savoury delight. Brillat Savarin christened it " the black diamond " by experts it is known as "Tuber melanosporum" and for many it is simply " the Perigord truffle"! we prefer to call it by its true name "La Rabasse "

I happened to have had a jonesing for something "truffled" the other night.  Here's what I came up with:

Truffled Mushroom Ragout
(modified from Epicurious)

3 T butter
1 garlic clove, minced
1/2 t dried marjoram
12 ounces crimini mushrooms, quartered
1/3 c canned chicken broth
1/3 c dry red wine
3 T whipping cream

Melt butter in large skillet over medium heat
Add garlic and marjoram; sauté until fragrant
Add mushrooms; toss to coat with butter
Sprinkle with salt
Cover and cook about 13 minutes
Add chicken broth, wine, and whipping cream - bring to boil
Cook uncovered about 5 minutes - until mushrooms are tender and sauce coats mushrooms
Season mushroom ragout to taste with salt and pepper

Spoon ragout partially over steaks and onto plates. Drizzle mushrooms on each plate with 1/4 teaspoon truffle oil.

This ragout is lovely with filet mignon or pasta, or even bread.  Try it with a "mature" wine - a match made in foodheaven.

Very good/fairly easy meals

A few easily prepared, yet stellar-tasting meals I've had over the past week (with wine recommendations, of course).  Food blogs are wondrous things...

• From Kate @ Accidental Hedonist:  Saltimbocca
  • Wine pairing:  Quinta do Carmo Reserva, Alentejo, '01 ($30); Portugal

• From Barrett @ Too Many Chefs:  Scallop Chowder
  • Wine pairing:  Aveleda Vinho Verde, ($8); Portugal

• From Epicurious:  Chicken Curry w/Cashews
  • Wine pairing:  Bouvet Rose Excellence, ($15); France

Spanish Food/Wine Matches made in 'Cielo'

Fino Sherry + Sauteed shrimp (add garlic, paprika & cayenne pepper)

Cava + Manchego cheese, Mahon cheese

Red Jumila + Smoked vegetable bruscheta

Red Rioja + Dates stuffed with almonds and wrapped in bacon

Egg, Feta & Sage Sandwich

From the fabulous food blog, "Too Many Chefs," comes some wonderful midwinter, midday yumminess:

Egg, Feta & Sage Sandwich

I must admit, I didn't use fresh Sage.  I used dried, rubbed Dalmatian Sage.  Nevertheless, it turned out tasty.  Try it with an Alsatian Riesling or a New Zealand Riesling, such as Villa Maria's.

..and a (Spanish) partridge in a pear tree

This recipe is intended to be prepared with an actual Partridge.  In my case, I used Hungarian Partridges (compliments of my friendly hunter-neighbor).  However, if your local grocery doesn't carry partridges, you could easily substitute game hens or pheasant.

Toledo (Spain)-Style Partridge

Ingredients for 4:

• 2-4 partridges, cleaned and split in half
• freshly ground black pepper
• salt
• 3 tbsps Spanish virgin olive oil
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
• 1 tbsp plain four
• 1tbsp white wine vinegar
• 250ml (8 fl oz) chicken stock
• 1 wineglass dry white wine
• 3 bay leaves
• 3 whole cloves
• 2 tbsp bitter dark chocolate, grated

Preparation:
Sprinkle salt and pepper over the partridges. Heat the oil in a deep, flameproof casserole, add the birds and fry for about 5 minutes until golden brown on all sides. Add the onion and garlic and cook for a further 4-5 minutes, until softened.

Now make a roux, by stirring in the flour, then add the stock, wine, vinegar, bay leaves and cloves. Slowly bring to the boil, stirring constantly, and season with a little salt and pepper.

Cover the casserole and leave to cook very gently for about 30-40 minutes, until the birds are tender. Stir in the grated chocolate, cover and cook for a further 15 minutes.

Remove the birds to a heated serving dish and strain the sauce over them.

Try this dish with a 'gamey' red wine.  Reds containing the Mourvèdre grape (known as Monastrell in Spain) usually fit this description.  Two to try:

1. Carchelo Tinto '03 ($8) from the Jumilla D.O.
2. Louis Bernard Lirac '99 ($12) from the Southern Rhone Valley of France

World's Best Mashed Potatoes

At least according to these Pepperwood Party People.

The Basic Juice Chefs would like you to make all potato lovers happy with this recipe

Cabrales Mashed Potatoes (serves 6)

• 2lbs Russet or Yukon Gold potatoes; peeled, eyes & blemishes removed.  Cut into 2 inch chunks
• 6T Butter, softened at room temp
• 1cup Heavy cream, warmed
• Ground black pepper & salt to taste
• Cabrales cheese, to taste
• Fresh thyme, to taste

• Place potatoes in large saucepan; add cold water to cover and salt.  Bring to boil & continue cooking until potatoes are tender when pierced with a knife (15-20 mins)

• Drain cooked potatoes well and return pan to low heat.  Rice potatoes into pan and use whisk or wooden spoon to blend in butter, followed by warm cream.  If you don't have a ricer buy one! - or return potatoes to saucepan; mash over low heat w/masher adding butter as you mash & stir; followed by the cream

• When butter & cream are incorporated, add cheese to desired taste.  Season with salt, pepper, and thyme to taste and serve at once

Questions about these scrum-diddly-umptious tubers?  Ask the chefs!

non-Traditional Stuffing for Thanksgiving

Try this recipe (from Epicurious) in lieu of grandma's stuffing recipe.  Change is good.

WILD RICE, SAUSAGE AND FENNEL STUFFING

3 cups canned low-salt chicken broth
1 1/2 cups wild rice (about 9 ounces), rinsed, drained
1 cup water
2 teaspoons fennel seeds

1 pound sweet Italian sausage, casings removed
3 small fennel bulbs, trimmed, chopped (about 2 1/2 cups)
2 medium onions, chopped (about 2 cups)
3/4 cup chopped toasted walnuts (optional)

Combine broth, rice, 1 cup water and fennel seeds in heavy large saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium, cover and simmer until rice is tender, stirring occasionally, about 55 minutes. Drain. Sauté sausage in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat until cooked through, breaking up with back of spoon, about 10 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer sausage to paper towels and drain.

Add chopped fennel bulbs and onions to drippings in skillet. Sauté over medium-high heat until vegetables are golden, about 10 minutes. Add rice and sausage to skillet. Sauté until heated through, about 3 minutes. Stir in walnuts, if desired. Season to taste with salt and pepper. (Can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate. If serving as side dish, rewarm covered in 350°F. oven for 20 minutes.) Transfer to bowl and serve. If using as stuffing, cool completely and fill bird.

Tea Smoked Scallops

More bivalve-y goodness from Chefs Gaultney...

Tea Smoked Scallops
tool needed: Stove top Smoker

Scallops:

Place scallops on small tray and coat with cure.
Refrigerate for 45 minutes uncovered.  Remove from
refrigerator and completely rinse cure off of
scallops.  Pat dry.  Refrigerate for 25 minutes
longer.  Scallops should have a sticky dry feel to
them.

To Smoke Scallops:

Place 1/2 cup of alder wood chips and one torn bag of
orange tea in bottom of stove top  smoker.  Place drip
pan, and then rack with scallops, secure lid of
smoker.  Smoke on high heat for 8-15 minutes,
depending on the ability of your stove to heat.
(Smoke in a well ventilated area, as there will be
some smoke pouring out of the smoker.)

The scallops are done when you have a brownish smoke
tint on scallops.  The scallops may be served hot or
cold...in a creamy pasta dish or salad.

 

A tasty value priced wine to try with smoked scallops:

French Muscadet de Sevre-et-Maine

Or try a White Rueda from Spain

Yum.

Cure Scallops

Not that scallops are ill or anything..However, if you are interested in smoking scallops (in the culinary sense!) you will first want to cure these little bivalves.

Cure Base for Smoked Scallops (a la Chefs Gaultney)

Hint:  Use dry or frozen scallops; wet scallops aren't all that tasty

1/2 lb       kosher salt
4 oz          brown sugar
2 tsp         onion powder
2 tsp         granulated ginger

mix all ingredients, and store in an airtight
container

Now, what to do with cured scallops...

It's Squash Time

What to do with a butternut squash? 

I always enjoy seeing squash in the supermarket.  It's a sign that fall is here and the holidays are around the corner.  I often purchase a squash and inevitably either bake it with butter and brown sugar (yawn) or procrastinate doing something with it and finally throw it out once it's gotten squishy.

I searched for a recipe that would make butternut squash part of a meal - not the entire meal.  There are oodles of B-nut squash-based soup recipes.  However, I found this one on epicurious and liked it for its flavor and simplicity.

Herb Roasted Butternut Squash & Sausage

6 cups 3/4-inch cubes peeled butternut squash (about 1 1/2 pounds)
1 pound purchased fully cooked sausages (such as chicken and apple), cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
8 garlic cloves
3 tablespoons flavored olive oil (such as roasted pepper or herb) or regular olive oil
(I used chili pepper infused olive oil)
1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary
1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme

1 1/2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

Preheat oven to 450°F. Combine squash and next 6 ingredients in large roasting pan. Toss to coat. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast until squash is tender and sausage is warmed through, stirring once, about 30 minutes.

Transfer squash and sausages to platter. Drizzle with vinegar and serve.

Add some crusty bread to this dish and a DuBouef Beaujolais (try Chenas) and you have a tasty little fall meal.

Now, what to do with Acorn Squash???
 

CRACKER!

The word crackers has a few vernacular meanings. Considering some of the election results, there might be a few new meanings to this word....Be that as it may; enjoy this terrific cracker recipe by the Chefs Gaultney.

Flat Crackers

2 cups all purpose flour
8oz. cheese (any you like) I used Asiago
2tbs dried oregano
1/2 tbs kosher salt
1/2 tbs coarse black pepper
1/2 cup vegetable oil
1/2 to 3/4 cups water

1. Combine flour, cheese, oregano, salt and pepper in
food processor or by hand. Add oil and mix just until
a coarse meal consistency is achieved.Slowly add water
until the dough forms a cohesive ball that pulls away
from the sides of the bowl.

2. Divide the dough into 4 balls - wrap in plastic and
chill for 20 mins.

3. Sprinkle flour on a flat surface and press ball
into it,sprinkle flour on top and with a rolling pin
slowly work dough out . If dough wants to stick,
sprinkle with flour, turn over frequently and continue
to roll out to desired thickness. 1/8” thickness is
ideal.

4. Have oven preheated to 350 degrees. For best
results use a half sheet tray with a Silpat*, or
parchment paper. Bake until medium golden brown,
check at 10 to 15 minutes. Using a spatula, turn
dough over. Bake 5-8 more minutes, until lightly
browned. Cool on tray. Break into irregular pieces,
serve.

*Silpat is a non-stick, silicone baking sheet liner
that is reusable. We highly recommend this tool for
any baking activity. You can purchase these at Sur La
Table stores.

Perfect Pork Tenderloin

Recipe from Chefs Celeste & Grant Gaultney - Chefs Extraordinaire!

Stuffed Pork Tenderloin with Raspberry Port Sauce and Pink Peppercorns

2 lb pork loin
8 garlic cloves
4 shallots
1tbsp coarse black pepper
1tbsp kosher or sea salt
1tbsp pink peppercorns
2tbsp Dijon mustard
1tbsp fresh thyme
1tbsp honey

Roast garlic and shallots: Peel skins off of garlic and shallots.
Rub with olive oil and place on sheet tray in oven at 350 degrees in oven.
Roast until aromatic and soft, a slight browning is okay.

Butterfly loin and lay flat. Brush inside with Dijon mustard.
Sprinklewith salt and pepper.
Add honey, garlic, and shallots. Roll slowly, and tie with butcher's twine.

Heat a large sauce pan with tbsp oil.
When oil begins to move around in the pan, sear off loin on all sides. (approx. 2-3 min per side)
You can cook the stuffed, seared loin at this time, or refrigerate and cook up
to two days later.

Set oven to 350 degrees and cook until you reach an internal
temperature of 160 degrees.

Rest meat for 5-10 minutes, then slice and serve with raspberry port sauce.

Raspberry Port Sauce
2C Ruby Port
1C Apple Cider
1ea Cinnamon Stick
6ea Cloves
1/2tbsp crushed black peppercorns
1/2tbsp crushed pink peppercorns (or star anise)
1/2C molasses

Combine all ingredients in sauce pan and bring to a boil.
Reduce to simmer and allow sauce to thicken, approx. 45 minutes.
Strain and adjust taste with balsamic vinegar and molasses.

Two great wine picks:
G. DuBoeuf Brouilly Prestige, '02 ($12) - deep & inky with an intense berry aroma followed by crisp & smooth flavors. An ideal holiday red wine
Prosecco Legatura, NV ($12) (by Mionetto) - A lightly sparkling prosecco with floral and soft fruit aromas. A very nice balance of acidity and flavor for the holiday table.

Nov. 2: Celebration Time/Comfort Time

November 2nd & 3rd (hopefully it doesn't last until December) will be joyous days for some, nerveracking days for others and downright sad days for a few. Whatever your political persuasion, remember to vote. and if you need some comfort food, make this recipe a few days prior to the election and yank it out of the fridge on November 2nd.

Recipe: Chocolate Caramel Mousse

Time: 45 minutes, plus 4 hours' chilling

1 cup sugar
5 tablespoons butter, cut into bits
3 cups heavy cream
8 ounces high quality unsweetened or bittersweet chocolate chips or chunks, about 1 1/2 cups.

1. Put sugar in a heavy pan, and turn heat to medium. When sugar warms and begins to liquefy, add 1/2 cup water. Cook, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, until mixture bubbles, then becomes foamy, then dry again. Keep cooking until it liquefies again, stirring often and breaking up any chunks that form. When it is all dissolved and brown, remove from heat, and stir in butter a bit at a time. Standing back to avoid spattering, add 1 cup cream, then stir until blended. Let sit until cool enough to touch.

2. Meanwhile beat remaining cream until it holds soft peaks; refrigerate. Melt chocolate over very low heat or in a double boiler or microwave.

3. Mix melted chocolate into caramel. Add 1/3 of the whipped cream to caramel, and stir to combine. Add remaining whipped cream and gently fold, just until combined. Pour into a bowl and refrigerate until set, about 4 hours.

4. Scoop mousse with a spoon dipped in a hot water. Serve alongside a piece of orange confit.

Yield: 16 servings.

What to drink with this sinful dish? I nice cappucino would work. However, if you're in the mood for wine, try Brachetto d'Aqui. This fun bubbly plays nicely with dark chocolate.

Sweet Potatoes: Not just for Thanksgiving

Baked potatoes can be a little dull. When it gets cool, I start craving sweet potatoes. This recipe is incredibly easy (almost fool-proof!); yet the results are mouthwatering.

Baked Sweet Potatoes with Ginger-Molasses Butter

4 Sweet Potatoes; rinsed
1/2 stick unsalted butter, room temperature
2 t golden brown sugar
1/2 T mild-flavored (light) molasses
1/3 t ground ginger
1/4 t ground cinnamon
Pinch of ground cloves
2 T finely chopped crystallized ginger

Preheat oven to 350°F. Pierce sweet potatoes in several places with fork; bake on rimmed baking sheet until tender when pierced with fork, about 50 minutes.

Meanwhile, mix butter, brown sugar, molasses, ginger, cinnamon and cloves in bowl to blend. Stir in crystallized ginger. Generously season with salt and pepper.

Cut lengthwise slit in each potato and press in ends to open top. Spoon 1-2 tablespoons ginger-molasses butter into each serve.

This is a great accompaniment to pork roast or brisket. It's also fine with a salad. Try these sweet potatoes with a Viognier or Gewurztraminer for a taste-bud party in your mouth. Two good wine bets: Jepson Viognier ($12), California; or Pierre Sparr Gewurztraminer Reserve ($16), France

(not quite)Iron Chef

Occasionally I fancy myself to be a much better chef than I actually am. When I get a bit cocky, I try to create a recipe based on flavors I've enjoyed in the past. The other day my grocery list consisted of:

Ground turkey
Swiss chard
Cannelloni pasta
Apple cider

I also had the following items in the fridge:

Cherry tomatoes from the garden
Mozarella cheese
Parmiggano cheese
Nasty white wine

My goal was to create an apple spiced turkey-Swiss chard cannelloni with tomato sauce.

The approximate recipe for this Cannelloni creation
1 lbs lean ground turkey
2 C Swiss Chard in strips
6 Cannelloni pasta cylinders
1 t dried sage
2 t salt
1 t pepper
2 T apple cider vinegar
1 C apple cider
2 cloves garlic
1 T olive oil
1/2 C Mozarella, grated
1/4 C Parmiggano, grated

For tomato sauce
1 8oz can chopped, stewed tomatoes
2 T tomato paste
8-12 whole cherry tomatoes
1/2 C white wine
Salt and pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 400F.

Combine turkey, sage, salt, pepper, cider vinegar and apple cider in a medium skillet over medium heat. Stir to combine. Sautee until ground turkey brown and most liquid evaporated - about 20 mins.

Boil pasta in kettle about 8-10 mins until cylinders are slightly soft.

Remove turkey from skillet and wrap in foil. Add olive oil and garlic to saucepan and sautee until fragrant. Add Swiss chard and sautee on medium heat for 10 mins.

Combine ingredients for tomato sauce in medium saucepan and simmer over medium-high heat for 20-30 mins or until most of the liquid has evaporated off.

Combine turkey, chard and cheese (grated) in mixing bowl and stir thoroughly. Using hands stuff pasta cylinders with turkey-chard-cheese blend and put into oiled baking dish.

Smother with tomato sauce and top with additional cheese if desired. Bake for 15 mins or until cheese begins to brown.

Surprisingly, this little concotion tasted quite good. I would have added more sage and less apple cider. It paired nicely with Bogle's Petite Sirah (2002) for $10. - perhaps because of the dense tomato sauce and hearty Swiss chard, which were able to stand up to this medium-bodied, dense berry/spicy red wine.

Make your own damn pizza!

I'm as lazy as the next person. It is incredibly easy to call and order a pizza on a Tuesday night. However, with few exceptions, fast food delivery-pizzas just aren't all that good.

Give this recipe a try. It's easy, different and mighty tasty:

Wild Mushroom Pizza

1 1/2 T olive oil
1/2 to 3/4 pound assorted wild mushrooms (such as oyster, crimini, morel and stemmed shiitake), sliced
1 t chopped fresh rosemary

1 10-ounce purchased fully baked thin pizza crust OR make a fresh pizza crust - recipe here.
1/2 cup shredded Fontina cheese
1/2 cup shredded Mozarella cheese
1/2 cup thinly sliced red onion

Preheat oven to 350°F. Stir onions in bowl with 1/2 T olive oil. Add salt and pepper. stir again. Spread onions on baking sheet and roast for 30 minutes.

Heat oven to 450°F. Heat oil in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms and rosemary. Cover skillet and cook until mushrooms are just tender, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes. Uncover and simmer until any juices evaporate. Season with salt and pepper.

Place crust on baking sheet. Top with cheese, onion and mushrooms. Bake pizza until heated through and cheese melts, about 15 minutes.

Another take on this pizza is to caramelize the onions instead of roasting them:
Heat oil in large skillet over medium-high heat. Add onions, salt and pepper; cook until onions begin to brown, stirring frequently, about 8 minutes. Add 1/4 cup chicken broth and 1 T balsamic vinegar. Reduce heat to medium; simmer until most liquid evaporates, stirring occasionally, about 15 minutes. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover; chill. Rewarm before serving.)

This pizza works well with either red or white wine.

For white; try Boutari Santorini, 2002 or Höpler Grüner Veltliner, 2003

For red; try Taurino, Salice Salentino, “Reserva”, 1999

Make your own damn pizza..Dough!

Homemade pizza dough is easier than you think. You can also freeze the dough and use it whenever you get a hankering for pizza. Give it a try.

Pizza Dough

1 cup lukewarm water
1 package (2 teaspoons) active dry yeast
A pinch of sugar
1 t of salt
1 T olive oil (plus extra for the bowl)
3 cups unbleached white flour
Extra flour for kneading
Cornmeal for the baking tray

Place the water in a medium-large bowl. Sprinkle in the yeast and sugar, and stir to dissolve. Let it stand 5 minutes, or until the mixture begins to bubble.

Stir in 1 cup of flour, the salt, and 1 tablespoon olive oil. Beat for several minutes with a wooden spoon.

Add the remaining flour 1/2 cup at a time, mixing after each addition. The dough will be soft but should not be sticky.

Turn out onto a floured surface, and knead for several minutes. Place in an oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let the dough rise until doubled in bulk. This will take about 1 hour.

Punch down the dough, and return it to the floured surface. (This is the point at which you can freeze the dough for future use.)

To make pizzettas, divide the dough into six equal parts, knead each piece for a few minutes, then let the balls of dough rest for about 10 minutes. (This allows the gluten to relax, so the dough will easily stretch into shape.)

Preheat oven to 500°F. Stretch each ball of dough into a 6-inch circle. Sprinkle two thin, noninsulated baking trays with cornmeal, and place two circles on each. Sparingly top each pizzetta with topping.

Bake one tray at a time in the lower half of the oven for 10 to 12 minutes, or until the edges are crispy and brown. (If you are not sure whether it's baked through, you can take one pizzetta out of the oven and cut it in half. If it is still a little doughy on the inside, return it to the baking pan and bake a few minutes longer.) Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.

Makes six 6-inch pizzas.

Now this is a salad

This salad will wake up your taste buds..

Arugula Salad w/Manchego, apples & caramelized walnuts

1/2 cup balsamic vinegar

1/2 cup walnut oil
3 tablespoons Champagne vinegar or white wine vinegar

8 cups arugula
2 Red Delicious or Fuji apples, unpeeled, cored, thinly sliced
6 ounces Spanish Manchego cheese or sharp white cheddar cheese, shaved
1 1/2 cups pitted dates, sliced
1 cup Caramelized Walnuts
4 large shallots, minced

[Caramelized Walnuts

Nonstick vegetable oil spray
1/2 cup sugar
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1 1/2 cups walnuts
Preheat oven to 325°F. Line heavy rimmed baking sheet with foil. Spray foil with nonstick spray. Combine sugar and vinegar in small saucepan. Stir over medium heat until sugar dissolves, about 3 minutes. Add nuts; toss to coat. Transfer mixture to baking sheet.

Bake until nuts are deep brown and syrup thickens and coats nuts, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes. Cool completely on baking sheet. Break nuts apart. (Can be made 2 days ahead. Store airtight at room temperature.)]

Making the Salad...
Boil balsamic vinegar in small saucepan over medium-high heat until syrupy and reduced to 1/4 cup, about 4 minutes.

Whisk oil and Champagne vinegar in bowl. Season with salt and pepper. (Can be made 4 hours ahead. Keep at room temperature. Rewarm balsamic syrup before using. Rewhisk vinaigrette before using.)

Toss arugula, apples, half of cheese, dates, walnuts, and shallots in large bowl with enough vinaigrette to coat. Season salad with salt and pepper.

Mound salad in center of each plate. Drizzle balsamic syrup around salads. Sprinkle remaining cheese atop salads.

These zesty, tangy & sweet flavors beg for Riesling

Try Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler, Dr. Ernst Loosen or Dr. Konstantin Frank Dry Riesling

Yes indeed-y; that's a salad

Pasta+yummy stuff

For some reason, I have a difficult time getting excited about making pasta at home. This is probably due to the fact that I have a rather narrow perception of what a 'pasta dish' should be.

So, recently I've begun a little pasta-experimentation. I came across this recipe and loved it. Give it a try. It is easy, yummy and unique.

Pasta w/chicken, prosciutto, sun-dried tomato, pine nuts & Gorgonzola (original recipe link here)

1/2cup chopped drained oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes (2 tablespoons oil reserved)
2 skinless boneless chicken breast halves (about 9 ounces total)

1 pound large shell pasta

4 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 cup chopped fresh basil
1/2 cup canned low-salt chicken broth
1/2 cup crumbled Gorgonzola cheese (about 2 ounces)
1/4 cup chopped prosciutto

1/4 cup pine nuts, toasted

Heat 1 tablespoon oil reserved from tomatoes in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat. Add chicken to skillet and sauté until cooked through, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer chicken to plate and cool; do not clean skillet. Cut chicken into 1/2-inch pieces.

Cook pasta in large pot of boiling salted water until just tender but still firm to bite. Drain pasta; transfer to large bowl.

Meanwhile, heat remaining 1 tablespoon tomato oil in same skillet over medium-high heat. Add garlic; sauté until tender, about 1 minute. Add sun-dried tomatoes, chicken, basil, broth, cheese and prosciutto to skillet and bring to boil.

Add sauce to pasta and toss to coat. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Top with pine nuts and serve.

Wine - You could go either red, white or bubbly with this dish

Red: Louis Bernard, Lirac, '99 ($12) from France

White: Hopler Gruner Veltliner, '02 ($10) from Austria

Bubbly: Nino Franco 'Rustico' Prosecco, NV ($13) from Italy

Burger Revolution

We've seen the rise of the $100 hamburger.

For the record, I will never pay that kind of dough for a burger (hey we all have to draw the line somewhere/some time).

However, as a red-blooded American boy raised on burgers from the local drive-in, "the Top Spot," I like to grill burgers as much as the next guy.

So, as an adieu to Summer, on Labor Day, I decided to go for the gusto. I came up with, perhaps the world's first, heirloom tomato-gorgonzola aioli buffalo burger. And without being a braggart, I can confidently say it was one of the best burgers I've ever had (and it didn't cost close to 100 clams).

The recipes:

Buffalo Burgers
1 lbs ground buffalo meat (much tastier than beef, although if you can't find it, black angus will do)
1/4 cup dry red wine
1 t sea salt
1/2 t green peppercorns - ground
1 T Panko (Japanese bread crumbs used in tempura)* - used to soak up wine and add flavor!
*may substitute fresh bread crumbs
light olive oil
1 heirloom tomato, sliced
baby spinach leaves
Kaiser rolls

In a medium mixing bowl, add buffalo meat, wine and Panko.
Knead together with hands
Form burger patties with hand (about 1/3" thick)
brush both sides of patties with olive oil
sprinkle salt and pepper on both sides

Preheat gas grill on med-high heat

For Gorgonzola Aioli
1 cup mayonnaise
1/2 cup sour cream
1/2 cup Gorgonzola cheese, crumbled or chopped finely (depending on stickiness level)
1 T shallot, chopped.
1 t Worcestershire sauce
1/2 t hot sauce (the red variety - Thai hot sauce could also be used)
1/2 t salt
1/4 t green pepper

While grill heats mix ingredients in small mixing bowl
You may tune aioli to your own taste by adding more or less mayo and/or cheese

Grill burgers until medium rare on inside - about 3 to 5 mins per side
Kaiser rolls may be toasted on grill

Dress burgers with tomato, spinach and generous portion of aioli.

Experience your first burger-gasm :)
Enjoy!

Grilled Shrimp 'n' Tomato Jam

I love Moroccan food.  The combination of sweet, savory & spicy flavors always suprises me - someone who was brought up on meat & potatoes.

Tonight I tried grilled shrimp with tomato jam and two different kinds of couscous.

Grilled Shrimp & Tomato Jam Recipe
1 T unsalted butter
2 T grated fresh ginger
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 cup cider vinegar
1/4 cup dry fino Sherry
one cinnamon stick
35 oz (large can or 3 smaller cans) peeled tomatoes - drained & coarsley chopped
1/4 cup light brown sugar
1 t ground cumin
1/4 t cayenne pepper
1/8 t ground cloves
salt
fresh ground black pepper
1 lbs medium-large shrimo, shelled & deveiened

-Melt butter in saucepan, add ginger and garlic; cook over med-high heat
stir until fragrant.  Add vinegar & cinnamon.  Cook about one min. until reduced.
Stir in tomatoes, sherry, brown sugar, cumin, cayenne, cloves.  Reduce heat to med-low - cook until liquid evaporates; stirring occasionally about one hour.

-Discard cinnamon

-Season w/salt & pepper.  Optional: puree until smooth in blender or food processor (I personally prefer more texture in the jam, so I don't blend it).

-Preheat gas grill or broiler

-Coat shrimp with 1/3-1/2 of tomato jam and marinate at room temp for 35-40 minutes.  Pour remaining jam into serving bowl

-Grill shrimp until lightly charred on outside (about 2-3 mins per side).

Serve with couscous - lemon-herb couscous or apricot couscous are my favorites.  Spoon extra jam over shrimp to taste

This dish pairs perfectly with a full, aromatic white.  Try it with a Viognier or Gewurztraminer.  I had it with Lageder Pinot Bianco, 2002 ($12) - a Northern Italian white wine.  Yum.

Grilled Porterhouse Steak & Tarragon Salad

This quick recipe will add some different flavors to the standard 'grilled steak' dinner

1 Porterhouse steak (about 1-1.5 lbs)
3 T extra-virgin olive oil
1 T balsamic vinegar
1 T chopped fresh tarragon
1 cup diced seeded beefsteak tomatoes (I've also used a mixture of cherry and roma tomatoes)
1 T shallot, chopped
Coarse kosher salt

Preheat gas grill to moderately high heat

Brush steak on both sides with olive oil. Season with salt & pepper - set aside while grill is heating

Combine olive oil, vinegar, tarragon & shallot in medium-sized bowl. Whisk
Salt and pepper to taste

Grill steak - about 8 minutes per side. Remove from grill and wrap in foil - let stand 10-12 minutes

Line shallow bowl or plate with sliced tomatoes. Pour dressing over top of tomatoes.

Top with steak and enjoy!

This would be a great dish to serve with Atlas Peak Sangiovese

Snazz up Pork

This weekend I came upon this recipe for pork tenderloin (which I used for pork chops):

Marinade
2 cloves garlic
1t salt
2t fresh rosemary (finely chopped)
1T olive oil
1/4t black pepper
1/4t red pepper (or cracked pink peppercorns if you can find them)

Mince garlic and mash to a paste with 1 teaspoon salt using a large heavy knife, then stir together garlic paste, rosemary, pepper, and 1 tablespoon oil in a small bowl. Pat pork dry and rub all over with paste. Marinate, uncovered, at room temperature 20 minutes.

Tomato Jam
2 lb plum tomatoes, halved lengthwise
1/2t salt
1/3 cup sugar
1t dried hot red pepper flakes

set a box grater into a shallow dish, then rub cut sides of tomatoes against large teardrop-shaped holes to remove as much tomato pulp as possible (discard skins). Boil tomato pulp, sugar, red pepper flakes, and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a 4-quart heavy pot, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until reduced to about 1 1/2 cups, 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer tomato jam to a bowl set in a larger bowl of ice and cold water and cool to room temperature, stirring.

I grilled the pork chops on a gas grill, med-high heat, for about 10 minutes per side
I also grilled Belgian Endives - but I didn't allow them to stay on the grill long enough (still too crunchy)

The marinade coupled with the jam gives a nice spicy-sweet flavor.
I paired the dish with a simple, dry bubbly - Charles de Fere Tradition

Spanish Alchemy

The LA times has a nice article on the modern food alchemy that is Spanish Tapas. Read it here (free reg. required)

Not convinced that modern Spanish Tapas involve all that much alchemy? Try this recipe on for size:

Spicy gazpacho sorbet with balsamic vinegar

Total time: 55 minutes, plus 1 hour chilling time and 2 hours freezing time

Servings: 8

Note: Adapted from Tragabuches in Ronda

5 very ripe but firm tomatoes (about 1 1/2 pounds), seeded and chopped

1 cup cubed country bread without crusts

1 envelope unflavored gelatin (2 1/4 teaspoons)

1/4 cup chopped green bell pepper

1/4 cup chopped red bell pepper

1/4 cup chopped celery

2 tablespoons chopped red onion

1 small garlic clove, crushed through a press

1/4 cup chilled vodka

2 tablespoons light corn syrup

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

2 teaspoons Tabasco sauce, or to taste

1/2 teaspoon salt or to taste

2 tablespoons syrupy aged balsamic vinegar or 1/3 cup thin balsamic vinegar reduced to 2 tablespoons and cooled

Best-quality extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 Granny Smith apple, peeled and finely diced

1/2 red bell pepper, peeled and finely diced

1/2 cucumber, peeled and finely diced

Finely slivered mint

1. Place the tomatoes in a sieve set over a bowl and let them drain for 10 to 15 minutes. Meanwhile, soak the bread in cold water to cover for 5 minutes. Drain the bread and squeeze out excess moisture.

2. In a small bowl, sprinkle 1 tablespoon of cold water over the gelatin and let stand for 5 minutes. Add 3 to 4 tablespoons very hot water and stir to completely dissolve the gelatin.

3. In a bowl, toss together the tomatoes, bread, gelatin, red and green peppers, celery, onion, garlic, vodka, corn syrup, oil, vinegar, Tabasco and salt.

4. In two batches, process the mixture in a food processor until smooth. Transfer the mixture to a blender and purée until it is as smooth as possible.

5. Chill the mixture until cold, about 1 hour. Stir, then freeze in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer's instructions. Once churned, transfer the mixture to a plastic container and freeze for about 2 hours but not much longer, or the sorbet will crystallize. (If making ahead and freezing longer, let stand at room temperature for about 30 minutes before serving.)

6. Scoop the sorbet into large shot glasses or small martini glasses. Drizzle with a little of the reduced vinegar and the oil and sprinkle with diced apple, bell peppers, cucumbers and mint.

Korean Steaks

I tried this recipe for Korean-style steaks with cilantro sauce last night. Grilled beef and cilantro compliment each other far better than I imagined.

I paired this dish with a great Portuguese wine from Ramos Pinto. It's called Duas Quintas and it is a great change of pace from some of the over-the-top California PowerCabernets. Plus it hits the sweet spot of $10.

Corn 'n Wine

Corn on the cob has always been a favorite of mine. Lately, however, I've been a bit bored with it. I recently discovered an easy way to jazz it up:

Ancho Chile Butter
Soften 2T butter (for 2-3 ears of corn)
Mix in 1-2t chopped ancho chiles in adobo
Add one clove garlic, chopped
Add dash of sugar and dash of salt
Stir ingredients together

Boil shucked corn for 15 mins in salted water. Remove from water and place on baking sheet. Baste corn with chile butter. Broil corn on high for 5 mins. Yum, a southwesterny, smoky, spicy flavor.

Now try this with an inexpensive dry or slightly off-dry Riesling. Two of my favorites are Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler Riesling (Germany, $10) and Schloss Schonborn (also German, $10). Add some grilled chicken and you've got a great summer dinner.