Basic Juice - the wine blog for my generation

I can't believe it's not Stelvin!

There are those who cling to the 'romance' and 'tradition' of popping the cork prior to imbibing.  Then there are those who think such 'romance' and 'tradition' are ridiculous if these totems potentially mean stinking, spoiled wine.  Both camps have valid points.  I'm a sentimental, shmoopy sucker for the romance involved in popping the cork.  But then, If I've dropped 40 or 50 clams, and my just-popped bottle of wine smells like a box-full of soggy, old Boys Life magazines, I set up camp amongst the pro screw-cap crowd.

Must the wine lover chose between faulty corks and sterile Stelvins when it comes to bottle closure?  Would that there were a closure, which could preserve in an aesthetically appealing manner.  Thank the cosmos for Vino-Lock.  This glass stopper is much prettier than a Stelvin and, of course, more reliable than cork oak bark cylinders.

Just a few weeks ago I took home the first glass-stopped wine to appear in the wine shop.  I loved it.  And the wine wasn't too bad either.

Cusumano IGT Sicily Merlot 2006 ($12) - A simple, exuberant Merlot made more appealing by its aesthetically cool glass stopper.  This inky-purple wine offers scents of cherry jelly and baked strawberry.  Its flavors a simply tangy fruit.  Cusumano Merlot is nothing if not pleasant and eager to accompany pizza.

Technorati Tags: italy, merlot, wine

Gutenberg Would be Proud: The Juice in Print

If you happen to dwell in the land of hard copy, check out the current issue of Salt Lake Magazine.  Whilst neglecting Basic Juice in cyberspace, I have been nurturing it in the world of print.  Alas, I am still struggling to multitask.

For those who eschew paper, have a look at the extended, 'Author's Cut' of the article below the fold.

Not Good with Turkey

This time of year the wine lover is inundated with T-day wine recommendations..."German Riesling is perfect with turkey"...."A Beaujolais is a sure bet on Thanksgiving"...."Burgundy, both red and white are ideal on your Thanksgiving".....etc. etc.

I for one am tired of staid poultry & stuffing wine pairing suggestions. 

How about something different to eat and drink on Friday - the day after turkey day?  May I suggest a Vermentino, not from the sardinian coast, but from Lodi, California.  Who knew the California version of this hefty-spicy-herby-citrusy grape could be so true to its Italian roots?  After racking up mo' mo' credit card debt on Friday, take the edge of with a plate of turkey enchiladas paired to Uvaggio Vermentino 2006 ($10).   It will be the best wine-food match you will sample all week.

It's Not Big It's Large

The adjective 'big' as it relates to wine often carries a slightly negative connotation.  Well, if not a overtly negative, then at least, fairly rough.  A big red wine is more often lauded for its power than its beauty.  Perhaps those big wines that also maintain an air of nuance should be referred to as 'large' or 'grand'.

When it comes to large, grand wines, one of the world's up and coming regions is Canada's Okanagan Valley in BC.  In fact, one of Canada's biggest wine-glomerates, VinCor, has partnered with a band in Bordeaux (Groupe Taillan) to develop grand Bordeaux-style winery.  Osoyoos Larose produces complex, character-full grand/large wine.  The 2004 Petales d'Osoyoos (~$27)  may be a 2nd label wine, but it's also lovely and grand.  Petales is largely blackberry, earthy spice and plum preserves.  If you happen to live near the 49th Parallel, matriculate over the border and grab this wine for turkey day.  At a minimum, try it before the Loonie laps the Greenback on the exchange front and the wine costs you as much as a 'first label' vino.

If you're still having difficulty wrapping your brain around the whole Big v. Large concept, let Lyle teach you.  His band is most definitely large rather than big.  Listen here. 

Update:

Read a Canuck Wino perspective on big wine here.

Hey, NZ! Hold Everything.

I've often wondered why New Zealand was anointed/anointed itself as the land of Sauvignon Blanc.  To be sure, NZ SB has been quite successful as an import to the US wine market (and certainly names like 'Monkey Bay' don't hurt its mass appeal to the garanimal-wine-loving crowd).  However, I think this success has come at a price.  Kiwi Blanc has overshadowed every other grape variety.  And this is a very sad thing.

Think about it.  When was the last time you sampled a New Zealand Riesling or Gewurztraminer?  These grapes have found a very cozy home on the Islands way down under.  In fact, while I find most New Zealand Sauvi Blanc, easy-to-enjoy, I also find it a tad bit uni-dimensional (see here for a great descriptor of NZ SB).  I have discovered extraordinarily sublime Riesling and intoxicating (in the figurative sense of the word) Gewurz.  Think I'm nuts.  Take this little NZ non-SB challenge:

Huia Gewurztraminer 2006 - A chewy, thick wine, which echos the Alsatian style but with a bit less earth

Villa Maria Riesling 2005 - A remarkable feat of a wine.  This Riesling stews together new world heft with teutonic crispness.

Am I alone in thinking the OenoKiwis might want to diversify their white wine portfolio?

Paging Dr. Frank. Rkatsiteli, Stat!

Dr. Frank, Can I call you Konstantin?  How about, "Big K?"  I want to congratulate you on producing such a fine, compelling white wine from an unheard-of Georgian (as in Eastern Europe) grape variety.  Your Rkatsiteli is zesty, in the Jungwein/Vino Joven style.  It's a mouthful of spritz, fresh peach & pear and a hint of greenness (in the running-across-an-alpine-meadow sense).  Huzzah to you, sir.
Get it: Dr. Frank Rkatsiteli, 2006 ($25).

However, Doc, you've got some splainin' to do.  When I hit your 'Wine Facts' page to have a gander of all the oeno-goodies you produce, I see something that is a mite bit disturbing.  I see something called, "Chateau Frank Champagnes."  Unless I've missed something (i.e. did you recently purchase a patch of vines in the Aube of Seine-et-Marne?), your "champagne" is produced in upstate NY from grapes grown near the Finger Lakes, no?  Well then, please Kahuna Konstantin, drop the champagne moniker and use the less confusing label of, "New York Sparkling Wine."  Hell, follow the Spanish (see: Cava) example and come up with a name for your bubbly.  How about, "Frank's Fizz" or "Dom Konstantin"? Anything, just do away with bogarting the Champagne title.  Merci!

A Wide Stance Wine

The words, "wide" and "stance" are innocent enough by themselves.  However, taken together, "wide stance" can conjure up less-than-innocent imagery. 

I wish to cleanse this phrase and implement it as a wine descriptor.  To whit, what does the phrase, "this wine takes a wide stance," mean to you?

Perhaps it implies a brawny, lumberjack of a wine. 

Maybe it describes wine with impressive length.

ahem.

Actually, in this case, "wide stance" refers to wine that is balanced (it's difficult to knock over) from every perspective.  Wide stance wine runs the gambit of flavor, tannin, acidity and restraint. A perfect wide stance wine is represented by Dominio de Tares' Baltos Mencia (2005, $12-$15, imported by Classical Wines).  While the frolicking nudes on the Baltos label (at right) appear as if they are capable of striking numerous stances, it owes much of its stability to the hilly growing region of Bierzo.  Of course the over-used sentiment of 'warm days and cool nights' being good for wine production is an apt descriptor of El Bierzo.  This relatively balanced climate, coupled to the mountain-loving Mencia grape , one of Spain's secret wine weapons, produce one of the most food-friendly wines I've sampled in ages.

The Skinny
Dominio de Tares "Baltos" Mencia 2005

• A deep ruby red wine with dusty, leathery highlights 'round the rim
• Scents of rasp- and straw-berry, violets, a little earth and dash of mushroom
• Perfect balance in the mouth - the relatively simple flavor is accented and gussied-up with lively acidity and solid, structured tannins.  The wine says 'adios' with a long finish powered by a solid 13.5% ABV.
• Try Baltos with pan-fried pork chops with white beans & radicchio, roasted chicken or classic spaghetti.

I do/I don't

I do -
go for a funky, compelling glass of Rose from the Lebanese countryside with my Baba Ganooj.

I don't -
understand paying any amount of money, even 7-bucks, for wine that tastes as if it were produced by a mega-glomerate named, "ACME Wine Inc."

I do -
love to wind down the week by sipping a 9-buck bottle of Cava, eating two slices too many and watching Colbert Report reruns.

I don't -
pay $50 for a bottle of Cab/Bordeaux blend sporting 15+ percent ABV.  After 1.5 glasses, I'm too clouded to appreciate what it is I'm sipping.

I do -
appreciate alternative closures - Stelvins, Vino-Locs, etc. 

I don't -
understand why I still receive press releases linking Merlot and/or Pinot Noir to the film Sideways.  It was three years ago.  Let it go.  Please.

I do -
enjoy seeking out a new wine (Txakoli!, Santorini!, German Pinot N.!) each week at the local wine shop.

I don't -
enjoy the proceeds of the above-mentioned wine safari going into the bursting coffers of a wine-hostile regime seated in the Beehive State rotunda.

I do -
wish I had more time to sample, evaluate and wax poetic on wine.

I don't -
have any idea how many people have read this and thought, "Is this person an idiot?"

I do -
recommend revisiting (or sampling for the first time) Schramsberg's Blanc de Noirs ($30).  It is truly one of the finest domestic bubblies I have ever slurped (think: slightly overripe strawberries dipped in honey and schmeared over an oven fresh biscotti). 

I don't -
know exactly when (and if I'll have enough patience to continue waiting) I should open this bottle:  Baumard Quarts de Chaume, 2002.

BC | CB

For the wine-imbiber who travels, there often seems to be 'that one bottle', which surprises - not only for how tasty it is, but also for the grape varietal used.  During my recent trip to lovely Vancouver, BC, I discovered something new and very tasty from the Okanagan Valley.  I might add this discovery was pure luck - as it involves the Chenin Blanc grape, which only occupies ~20 hectares in Okanagan vineyardom.

Golden Mile Cellars Old Vines Chenin Blanc 2006 ($15-$20) - This CB is textbook CB - a la Vouvray.  It possesses intense floral-fruity scents underscored by an aroma that can only be described as, "slightly earthy" and perhaps a little bit naughty (picture naked grapes frolicking in the mud after a rainstorm).  This wine's body is notably more stout than old world Chenin-based wines.  A big-boned structure, coupled with the high-volume scents translates to an initial impression of Golden Mile Chenin Blanc being sweet.  But wait!  This wine is in fact dry with enough zippy acidity to balance out its high-ish alcohol content and seemingly sugar-full nose. 

I fell in love with this wine for the fact that it's fairly rare (I doubt it's available in any US retail ship) and entirely unique.  That's the bad news - you won't be able to find it.  The good news is that this calls for an air/road-trip to BC!

Sip GM C.Blanc solo, or with, naa, sip it solo - no need for food to muck up this wonderfully tasty wine.

Read another review on this BC CB from App. America's John Schreiner.

Question:  What big wine surprise have you discovered on a recent trip?

Ring Around the Prio

Random Trivia Question:  Without looking at a map, where is the youngish Spanish DO, Montsant, located?

tick tick tick tick tick ring

Montsant forms a horseshoe/Pacman/macrophage (for the cell-bio/wine lovers amongst us) around the power wine producing place called Priorato in Catalonia.

If you're at all familar with the concentrated, chewy wines of Priorato, wine from Montsant tastes like a slightly less pumped up sibling.

Acustic* Cellar Vinyes Velles Nobles Garnatxa i Samso 2005 ($13-$16) - For those who don't speak Catalonian, Garnatxa is Grenache and Samso is Carignan.  This wine tastes nothing like many other Grenache-containing wine you may have sipped from Spain.  The style is decidedly modern - as are many wines from neighboring Priorato.  Acustic is big, brawny and chewy.  It obviously spent around a year in oak, which is a good thing as minus those months in wood, Acustic would have been flabby.  In fact, my tasting note of Acustic dealt in textures rather than flavors.  The interaction of brawn and spine is what makes this wine very appealing.  Try this wine with grilled lamb chops, sauteed portobellas or a takeout gyro.

While most of my recent Spanish sipping has been of the "cheerful chugger" variety, this representative of Montsant reminded me that for those who venture above the $10-level, many of Spain's wines are bound to surprise with style & complexity.

*There was some poetic malarky on the rear label describing the wine as 'acoustic' - unplugged, as it were.  However, I don't quite get it as the wine claims much of its character from being 'plugged in' to the barrel.

Non-Rosé Rosé

When is a non-Rosé practically a Rosé?  When it's a young, simple Grenache from that Ginormous Grenache Growing zone that is Spain.  Perhaps in in the books of some serious wine lovers, chilling down red wine is akin to drinking through a straw (see above, left).  But when it's (still) extraordinarily hot outside, nothing hits the spot like a slightly chilled* berry-bucket Grenache like this:

Bodegas Marco Real Garnacha 2005 ($6-$9)
Like a Rosé, only in addition to Strawberry, you'll snort and sip flavors of mushed, fresh Raspberries and a hint of Blackberry.  It's berry-rific.  Actually, this is a surprisingly light-bodied wine, considering its inky-ruby color.  Close your eyes and your palate will tell you, "this is a Rosé."  But then, after opening your eyes, the brain will insist that you're sipping a red wine.  A little cognitive dissonance never hurt anyone.

*Stick it in your Fridge for 25-30 minutes, or if you're the impatient type, jam it in the freezer for 10-15 minutes.

Weekend Hits/Misses

iTunes Hits
The Long Blondes - Someone to drive you home: Edgy pop with a slightly gruff but bouncy alto lead singer.

Spoon - Ga ga ga (etc.):  Imagine if the Rolling Stones drank 100 pints from the Fountain of Youth, quit most mind altering substances and moved to Austin.

Wine Hits
Laurenz und Sophie Singing Gruner Veltliner 2005: I have yet to find inexpensive white wine that is consistently as good and character-full as cheerful chuggers from Austria.  Set aside Laurenz + Sophie's silly "singing" moniker for this wine, twist off the cap and be prepared for zip! sproing! and fresh!

iTunes Misses
Crowded House - Time on Earth:  "Don't Dream it's Over" is one of the greatest pop songs of all time.  Unfortunately, our gang of Kiwis squeezed for living space has graduated to the "Adult Alternative" category.  Zzzzzzzzzzzz.

Discover any iTunes/Wine hits recently?

Keep It Simple, Sucka

Mark the time: 10:21 PM MDT on a Thursday.  I have made a gross generalization about one particular category of wine - rosé.

Pink wine's astronomic position in the ever-expanding wine universe is this: Rosé is made to drink and enjoy.  No analytical tasting necessary.  I've recently (see here) sampled serious rosé and found that I was almost let down by the wine's subtlety & complexity.  In contrast, I slammed down $7.95 for a pink Garnacha from Spain and was tickled, uh, pink.  Remember the axiom, "Veidah iss betta"?  How's about this for a rosé regulation: "Keep it simple, sucka*". 

Exhibit A in support of good, simple rosé:
Marco Real Garnacha 2006 ($6-$9; imported by S. Miles Selections).  This little pink gem has everything anyone could possibly want in a summertime beverage.  It's straightforward with ultra-simple scents and flavors of strawbrerry strawberry.  After that, if the wine be chilled, it's mission on earth is to refresh you at the beach, on a picnic or in front of an AC vent.  Senor Real scores bonus points for keeping the ABV under 13% (12.5%, to be exact).  Nothing ruins a dandy rosé sipping experience more than hefty body & hot finish due to high [ethanol]. 

Currently Spain seems to be the epicenter for cheap & cheerful pink drinks.  If you can't find M. Real, I'm sure you'll come up with another rosé josé.

*And by simple, I don't mean White Zinfandel.  WZ is an abomination unto the oeno-world and should be smitten from the face of the earth.  Can I get an Amen?

(Almost)Love at First Sight

Have you ever had a wine visually knock your socks/stockings/l'eggs off? 

It's rare that the mere sight of vino hanging out in a clear glass/crystal tub causes oenoinfatuation.  Sure, bubbly looks enticing and can capture one's imagination.  But still wine?  It typically doesn't dazzle the visual senses.

Until now.  I poured a glass of Domaine du Gros Nore Bandol Rose and was immediately mesmerized.  This pink wine, isn't really pink.  It's a lovely copper-salmon-caramel color.  How does wine evolve such a sublime color?  Who wouldn't love it?

Alas, my visual affair with Domaine du Gros was short lived.  Gros Nore is exceedingly subtle on the scent front.  Fine tune your sniffer, and you'll uncover earthy-herby aromas along with a bit o' berry.  In the mouth, G.N. is also restrained.  It's hefty @ around 15% alcohol, but still manages to maintain a zesty dimension.  Sad to say, the flavors are buried underneath the wine's rather stout body.  Overall, the wine is pleasant, but at nearly $20, I might find it difficult to spring for a second time.  Of course, that visual peepshow of ultra-unique color is worth at least one trip to the wine shop.  Give it a try, or at least, a gander.

The Skinny: Domaine du Gros Nore Bandol Rose 2005 ($19-$20)

• From the oft overlooked Southern France Appellation of Bandol.
• A blend of Mourvedre, Cinsault & Grenache.
• Imported by Kermit Lynch
• Lest you overwhelm its delicate flavors, serve this wine with light/subtle fare such as grilled chicken breast or pasta prima vera.

3 for the 4th

Greetings North Americans and those 'round the globe.  Happy 140! to my Canuck cousins.  A bit belated, yes.  But look at you with your shiny parliamentary democracy.  We Yanks had something similar for a while.  But now our larded posteriors are under a new & improved form of government - a little something based on the Unitary Executive (sounds like a ballpoint pen) theory (best interpreted as: "I'm the decider and I can do whatever the $%^* I want").  Numerous party poopers are calling this as a movement towards monarchy.  A nasty term, that.  I prefer U.E.  It sounds much more, uh, as if the US is now a part of the UAE.  On 4 July, the US of A turns 231.  Happy happy to us.  What exactly happened on 07/04/1776?  Oh right.  Now, bust out the bubbly. 

Is this a wine blog or what? 

Indeed it is.  Wine Recommendation #1 is a tasty French white, imported by Kermit Lynch.  Chateau Graville-Lacoste 2005 ($12-$13) hails from Bordeaux.  There are good values to be had in the oft-forgotten Graves Appellation.  Graville-Lacoste is a Semillon driven wine; full of pear & pineapple scents with a curveball of butterscotch aroma.  While the wine is ever-so-slightly weighty, the flavors of lemon, lime and herb are perfect with scallops.  Go on.  Give Graves a go.  Speaking of going; I had to go/get out/flee the ungodly heat in the solar collector that is Salt Lake Valley.  The Ladyfriend and I puttered up to about 9K' and stayed at the 'bird.  Sadly, the Sunday brunch staff has replaced friendly service with the words, "no" and "you can't."   As solace for our bruised brunch efforts, I packed pink bubbly by the name of Bouvet. Wine Recommendation #2 is a CabFranc-based sparkling Loire wine.  Sip it with chips, potato salad, fried chicken, ham sammys, tuna salad, green salad or egg salad.  Finally, if you're going to grill today, Wine Recommendation #3 is for you.  #3 is from the other, other land down under - South Africa.  Guardian Peak SMG '05 ($20ish) is the perfect wne with charbroil goodness.  It will dance with Franks and tango with TX (or NC, KC, etc.) BBQ.  G.P. SMG is jammy & spicy without heading off into spiked fruit juice land.

Remember to celebrate safely.  Happy 4th of July. Enjoy chipped beef!

Technorati Tags: rants, monologue, wine

Don't Stop Believin

If I were a big fan of The Sopranos, I might throw an end-of-series wake. Naturally I would serve vino Italiano. My crew wouldn't get none of them B's - Barolo, Barbresco, Barbera.  Rather, I'd head to 'the family's' Island - Sicily.  Why should one look to Sicily (just don't stare) for get-together wine?  Two words: cheap wine.  Now hold on a minute; It aint so bad.

Sure, Sicily's vino past is a bit cloudy. With its hot summer temperatures, the island produced generations of highly alcoholic, color-intense wine, which was used as blending juice. In fact, it's a dirty little secret that many French vignerons bought 'protection' for their weaker wines from La Cosa Loro.

More recently however, a few capos decided they would have more success conquering the wine world with style rather than brute strength. These cerebral Sicilians focused on quantity over quality. And believe you me, you should have no problem with that. Nowadays one can procure high fallutin' Sicilian vino at boutique prices (you don't even have to know a guy).  One may also, if one is so inclined, track down rosy pink wine from the island (I happen to know a guy).

Luckily it seems that a few vino consigliori even persuaded their boss to produce good. cheap. wine.  To the folks at Feudo Arancio, I offer a hearty shoulder-clapof gratitude for two Sicilians that should be at every wiseguy get-together on March 12.

'Grillo'
A unique white wine full of lemon zest, cucumber, romaine and white pepper scents.  This wine is great with pork chops or baked ziti.  It's even solid enough to stand up to a slice (either New York or Chicago).

'Nero' (Feudo Arancio Nero D'Avola 2005 - $7)
Now don't expect this Nero to move the earth after a sip or three. But as a spicy-fruity sipping beverage to nurse as you ponder Tony's fate, it is just the ticket. And yes, it will pair perfectly with mama's spaghetti or a leftover slice.

 

Feudo Arancio Nero D'Avola:  Don't stop believin in sub-$10 wine

tags italian wine, red wine, wine, the sopranos

Memo to Marquis

Memo

To: Rémy Pannier 

From: Basic Juice 

cc:  Growers (from the 500 of you viticulturing in 63 different appellations) who contribute grapeage to Marquis de la Tour's Rosé Sparkling Wine 

Date: 22 Jun 07

Re: Future branding/marketing of Marquis de la Tour Rosé (NV, $9) sparkling wine

____________________________________________

Dear Sirs/Madames:

Seeing as how Rémy Pannier is the Loire Valley's largest wine producer, I'm sure your company employs a number of smart, aspiring marketing wizkidz.  No doubt, one of them has already pitched the idea of rebranding Marquis de la Tour bubbly in order to make it more appealing to the US consumer.  I can picture the pitch in my mind....."look, we'll use those Budweiser frogs.  And instead of 'bud-weis-err' the amphibs can ribbit, "De-La-Tour!" 

Allow me to be the first to nip the aforementioned idea in the proverbial bud.  I'm sure the folks at Arrogant Frog are joyed to the max with their decision to leap into cute, crittery labeling.  However, your A+-value-priced, sparkling Rosé needs no such gimmicky hoo-ha.  I am happy to recommend a couple label modifications, free of charge:

1. On the front label, include these two succinct, highly descriptive adjectives in large, bold font (in English, as I and my fellow citizens no parlay much francais, if you catch my drift): DRY, SPARKLING WINE
2. On the back label, feel free to indulge the creativity of your marketeers.  Let them craft a nifty taste description (e.g. Marquis de la Tour Rosé is a lovely salmon-colored bubbly full of straw- and rasp-berry scents.  De la Tour's taste is divine with creamy texture, apple cider notes and a pleasant floral-berry finish) or pairing suggestions (e.g. Marquis de la Tour is the perfect accompaniment to summertime produce-enhanced dishes such as grilled tomato, basil and goat cheese sandwiches or lamb chops & farm fresh veggies)

I guarantee that five years down the road, you won't look back in shame at a label sporting pink frogs gussied up to look like something of a cross between Zoro and the Scarlet Pimpernel.  Rather, team Marquis will stand tall with pride at its simple, classy and info-rich label.  Heed me now; thank me later.

Technorati Tags: france, french wine, sparkling wine

Barbera d'Serpente

Who'd a thunk it!?  A very drinkable wine from the spud state.  And a non-Merlot/Cabernet/Shiraz to boot.

Snake River Winery Barbera 2005 ($17) - This Italian-Idahoan offers echos of old school d'Asti or d'Alba with slightly taut tannins and red cherry flavors.  Its new world tell is the slightly hot, medicinal/Kirsch flavors on the finish.  In a world of blasé, new-school copy-catters, this is a breath of fresh air.  Try it with pan-roasted duck breast & truffled polenta + lingonberry sauce.

1 + 1 =! 3

What exactly do you think this label is attempting to convey?

An unexpected value?
A rule-breaking, iconoclastic Spanish bubbly?
A jab at arithmetic?
A very poor 1st grade teacher?

Would that this mathematical expression equated to super tasting value Cava.  1+1=3 is a very serviceable sparkling wine.  However, at $13, I'll take the S to the V at ninedamndollars (or $6!) every day of the week.  It's just as good, and to my palate, it offers a bit more yeasty/toasty goodness.  However, if you're a grade school teacher, you may feel compelled to buy every bottle of "1-plus" in the store just so you can correct the label.

A more apt & honest label.

Pink 'n Meaty

As with most varietals, the difference between new world expression and old world character is enormous.  Take one of my favorite Rhone grapes, Mourvedre (aka Monastrell in Spain).  The old world character of this red grape is often the recipient of such non-fruit descriptions like, "butcher shop," meaty, gamey and wild.  Produced in Aussie, Cali, South Africa or even in some of the modern-styled wines of Spain, Mourvedre morphs into a mighty fruity wine with scents of blackberry jam, black cherry and stewed raspberry.  Yet, even in its tamest, fruitiest form, Mourvedre always slides in something unexpected.  Occasionally, you'll get a whiff of eucalyptus, clove, tobacco or dark chocolate...or even meat.

So how would Mourvedre perform as a Rosé?  Will it be all yummy strawberry followed by bacon?

Fortunately, Cline's 2006 Mourvedre Rosé ($15) doesn't finish off with any flavors that could be construed as meaty.  It does however offer a nifty flavor combo of fresh strawberry, red plum and a touch of clove.  While This pinkie is a bit big on the -OH side (13%), it rights itself with a spritz of acidity and a touch of textured tannin.  As with most rosé wines, Cline's pink Mourvedre will do its duty with nearly any unpretentious food.  Try it with a  turkey burger, cheese pizza or pasta.

Think of it as your very own bottle of buckie [itunes] [emusic, trk 6]

V. Various Vinho Verde Vacts

I.  The Vinho Verde DOC (appellation) is Portugal's largest wine region.

II.  Due to cramped vineyard space and regular rain, VV vines are traditionally co-planted with other crops, and trained above ground on granite pergolas.

III.  With the exception of Alvarhino/Albarino-based (fairly rare) Vinho Verde, these wines may not exceed 11.5% ABV.

IV.  There is actually such a thing as red Vinho Verde.  This isn't typically exported.  Red VV is also quite acidic and low in alcohol.

V.  Vinho Verde's signature petillance is actually the result of CO2-spritz before bottling.

Bonus question:  Although VV is typically drunk without any aging, shouldn't its Xtra-hi acidity enable this wine to be age-worthy?

A VV to try:  Quinta do Ameal 'Loureiro' Vinho Verde 2005 (~$12) - Imported by European Cellars.  This wine, from the VV sub-region of Lima, is made from the Loureiro grape variety.  Q. do Ameal is a bit more kraftig than most V. Verde.  It is also a vintage bottling, whereas other VV's are NV offerings.  While this wine is rather acidic, it feels rather smooth and viscous in the mouth.  In addition to the expected mineral flavors, Quinta do Ameal slides in some ripe red pear flavor.  Give it a try with a side of potato salad and be happy.

Learn everything and anything about the double-V here.

From The Annals of Unfortunate Adjectivery

Or how to describe the color of Vina Gravonia

I poured a glass of 1995 Vina Gravonia blanco, marveled at its intense deep gold-yellow color and asked the missus, "Hey, how would you describe the color of this wine?"

Her response? Very sophisticated...

"It looks just like morning pee"

Never let it be said that mi amiga aint brimming with class.

The Skinny
R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Gravonia Crianza 1995 (~$24)

• Imported from Rioja, Spain by USA Wine Imports
• 100% Viura (AKA Macabeo) aged in wood for 4 years (R. Lopez takes Rioja aging to the extreme - for example, its Gran Reserva red is aged 6 years in wood)
• Vina Gravonia offers scents of caramel, wood, citrus and earth.  At nearly 12 years old, you won't find many snappy fruit scents in this senior citizen-in-a-bottle
• The wine, surprisingly, is full of crisp acidity mated to subdued flavors.  It will shine with cream-based sauces or soft, funky cheeses.

Try it for something entirely different in the white wine world.  But please, find another adjective to describe its color.

An Ode to the Double-V

Spring has sprung
Hear the singing birdie
Time for Vinho Verde!

Though overlooked by many 'serious' wine lovers, VV is hands down one of the best, if not the best, value in the white wine universe.  Why?  Let me count the ways..

1. VV is usually in the $8-$10 range
2. V.Verde offers a dose of zing (acidity), some petillance and tasty lemon-lime-pear flavor
3. Vinho Verde pairs with almost any springtime picnic basket food - crusty bread and cheese, ma's potato salad, fried chicken, deviled eggs, &c
4. At 8-11% alcohol b.v., VV won't turn brunch into a prelude to a mental fog-filled day
5. Did I mention it is cheap?

Learn more about NW Portugal's cheerful, slightly spritzy gem here.

Broadbent Vinho Verde NV ($10) - a blend of 3 traditional VV grapes (notice the absence of Albarino/Alvarinho, which is actually not a traditional V.Verde grape): Loureiro, Trajadura and Pederna.  This wine is bracingly crisp, with surprisingly fresh fruit flavors of citrus and pear.  It's light, simple and easily loved.  Give it a try with your first brunch or picnic of spring.

Better Still than Eva

While I was pleasantly surprised at Longoria's snappy Albariño, this is something that completely floored me: A character-full, age-worthy Tempranillo from the Santa Y.

Longoria Santa Ynez Valley Tempranillo Clover Creek Vineyard 2004 ($~35) - Winemaker Rick Longoria indicates that this wine is made in the 'Old World Spanish' style.  To admitted California  cynics like myself, this might seem to be so much marketing hoo-ha.  However, I doff my cap to the Longorians - they have created a wine that offers the essence of Spanish Tempranillo - a la Rioja or Ribera del Duero - whilst adding a very subtle New World twist.

Longoria's Tempranillo is deep ruby red in color with scents of fresh 'forest berries' (wild blue-, rasp- and strawberries), tobacco and a touch of cedar.  In the mouth, this wine is right chewy with hearty American Oak-derived tannins.  To get the most from this wine, let it breathe for an hour or more before serving, or, better yet, lay it down for 3 years or so.  It is extraordinarily age-worthy.  A fine wine at a very fair price.  Sip it with grilled sirloin or spicy sausage and you'll certainly agree this wine is better still than Eva!

>>

Fri. Random 5 + 1 Chewy Chilean

Friday Random Music 5

1. Holly Golightly - This Ship
2. Of Montreal - We Were Born The Mutants Again With Leafling (?)
3. Alexi Murdoch - Song For You
4. Miles Davis - I Could Write A Book
5. Pearl Jam - Sonic Reducer (listen .mp3)

1 Chewy Chilean

Erasmo Reserva di Caliboro 2005 (~$25) - To those who think there is no distinct terroir in Chile, I say, "thhppphhhttt!"  This is the the 3rd Chilean Bordeaux (60% Cab S., 30% Merlot, 10% Cab F.) blend I've sampled that has a unique something-something.  That something is a nifty scent compilation of cherry liqueur, charred cedar and orange peel.  I dig it.  While the wine's flavor is straightforward black cherry-blackberry, it possesses two types o' tannic textures: 1) slightly abbraisive & attention grabbing followed by 2)smooth and supple.  Quite a trick.  Give it a go with a standing beef rib roast and/or crock-potted root veggies.

Riesava? Schiesling?

The Kerner varietal was bred in 1969 after such successful (both semi- and un-) German corossings as Scheurebe, Huxelrebe and Faber. It was born in Württemberg, Germany from a red grape papa (Schiava) and Riesling. Rather than being named Riesava or Schiesling, it was named 'Kerner' after a local songwriter renowned for his drinking songs.

"Neunundneunzig Flaschen voller Wein an der Wand..."

The Skinny
Abbazia di Novacella (Stiftskellerei Neustift) Kerner "Valle Isarco" 2004 ($19)

• From Italy's Alto Adige region
• 100% Kerner
• Very pale white gold in color
• Fresh fruit scents of white peach & pear.  There also seems to be some apple cider notes as well
• Lush, fresh flavors of nectarines with a little citrus zip. Simple, yet quite pleasant and drinkable. Overall, I would say this wine tastes something like a young, chubby Riesling.  It is indeed hefty, but possesses plenty o' acid to balance everything out

Try it with asparagus soup or pasta and fresh veggies.

Robola: It's Viral

Amongst my favorite vinous gifts from the Greeks is Santorini.  It's a fine, crisp & unique white wine.  Until now, I have avoided, perhaps subconsciously, the other well-known Greek white called Robola.  It's name hearkened to another '-bola'-suffixed word, which is at the very least unappetizing.  When its entire name, "Robola of Cephalonia," is taken into consideration, the wine seems much more appealing.

The Skinny
Gentilini Robola of Cephalonia 2005 ($14)

• From the Island of Cephalonia - Greece's Ionian viticulture center
• Made of 100% Robola - an ungrafted, mountain-dwelling white grape
• Bright, lemon-yellow
• Scents of fresh yogurt, tinned pineapple, Mandarin orange and spring blossoms
• In the mouth, Robola is both zesty and creamy, with a full-bodied character and unique finish (sort of a citrus-yogurt burst)
• Highly recommended

A great springtime wine and perfect with grilled chicken or kabobs.  This wine is fairly rare, so if you find it, pounce on a bottle or two.  It's no terribly common these days to find value-priced wine that is truly unique.

Dueling Asparagus

A bit of apocryphal history* for you: Cleopatra, of lethal-asp-clutching fame, is purported to have ended it all with a spear of asparagus rather than a venomous serpent. My reaction to asparagus isn’t quite as dramatic as the Nile Queen’s. However, few vegetables, when mismatched to wine, mete out palate punishment like the shoots of Asparagus officinalis. 

My oeno-advice to all brave souls attempting asparagus-wine harmony: Bring a duo to this duel. Allow me to explain. Asparagus commonly appears on your dinner plate in one of two roles. It may headline dinner as the main attraction – as it does with this goat cheese and asparagus pizza. More commonly, it plays the supporting role of vegetable, and leaves the spotlight to a main course, like steak. One wine won’t handle asparagus in both roles.

The Ow Trio

Funny how CTS makes typing an exercise in, "ow, dammit, why is my wrist numb!?"

So in the spirit of pain avoidance and brevity, I present the Ow trio - 3 affordable Spanish wines that should jump on the wine rotation in your home.

1. Lo Brujo Macabeo 2005, $7 (imported by Bon Vivant) - Not as memorable as the Macarena, but still a nice little white wine to pair with fish tacos.
2. Bodegas Zabrin Garnacha de Fego 2005, $10 (imported by MS Walker) - Great, classy Garnacha flava at a wee little price.  One of the best ten-buck vinos I've had in months.
3. Vilosell 2004 $14 (by European Cellars) - Nifty unfiltered Tempranillo blended with Cab S., Merlot and Garnacha.  A lot of smoky depth and chewy texture.  Perfect with something meaty

Vertical Tastings

Lustau Los Arcos Amontiallado
Irouleguy
Ribera del Duero
Argiolas Vermentino di Sardegna Costamolino
Corsican Pinot Noir

(more Rhone fun)

Rivertrivia + Vacqueyras

Q:  What European river originates from a glacier, flows North-South through Switzerland and France, and empties into the Mediterranean Sea?

A: The Rhône River

More Rivertrivia:

The word "Rhône" comes from Latin Rhodanus, which in turn comes, via the Greeks, from  the Celtic word Rodo ("that which runs").  Thanks to the runnin, carvin Rhône we have the French valley of the same name.  The Rhône Valley inspired artists and winemakers. 

Thanks to Rhône vintners, we have a whole gaggle of intriguing wine appellations.  The Northern Rhone is dominated by Syrah for reds and Viognier for white wine.  However, blending a little Viognier into a red isn't uncommon (see: Cote-Rotie).  The Southern portion of the valley sees a more diverse set of red grapes (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Carignane, Cinsault) and white grapes (Clairette, Picpoul, Bourboulenc, Rousanne, Marsanne).

How about a round of taste-one-Rhone-appellation-per-week?

This week's appellation is Vacqueyras.  Vacqueyras is a village in the southern Rhone.  It began life in 1937 as a Cotes du Rhone.  Then in 1990 it could add its little old name to the bottle, thus becoming a Cotes du Rhone Villages.  Finally in 1995 it was awarded the equivalent of a Rhone Cru.  Vacqueyras sets itself apart from other Rhonies with its telltale fullness and smoothness.

Try Perrin's 'Les Christins' 2004 Vacqueyras or, go for a cedarsawdust + cherry liqueur combo with Domaine La Garrigue 2004 Vacqueyras (~$20).

Better Than Eva

My experience with California-raised Spanish & Italian varietals has been an exercise in frustration.  For example, I find a Sangiovese from the Golden State, which made me say, "Yes, this is the perfect varietal for California."  Only later do I find out that the winery had yanked all the Sangio vines out because they weren't named Merlot, Cabernet or Zinfandel.

a few months ago I saw a bottle of, all things,