Positively New Zealandean

When New Zealand began cranking out Pinot Noir, one could often read a description along these lines:

"This Pinot is positively Burgundian in character"

Thhphhht.  I understand the urge to compare something to the original, gold standard.  However, well-made wine should be able to stand on its own.  And much of the Kiwi Pinot Noir is just dandy.

Brancott Vineyards makes a nice, simple Pinot for around ten bucks.  But wait; it gets better.  Brancott's reserve Pinot is positively potent.

The Skinny
Brancott Pinot Noir Reserve, '02 ($20)

• From Marlborough, New Zealand
• Light ruby in color - fading to salmon/copper
• Scents of ripe cherry, tomato plant, and earth
• Concentrated flavors of cherry, dark chocolate, and just a little black licorice.  A light-bodied wine with intense flavors.  A long, pleasant finish

**** (4 stars out of 5)

Fine with food.  But, this wine is one of those that yearns to go solo.