Young + Funky

Have you ever taken a roll in the hay?  I mean a literal roll in the hay; as in dirt and hay covered clothing.  There is something about old world wines - they often remind me of dirt, hay, dried leaves, toadstools, and all that funkiness.  More often than not, these scents are associated with an old world wine that has a little age behind it.  And with some age, fruit scents are often quite subdued or even absent.  However, occasionally my nose sniffs a young(ish) wine that has both fruit and funk.  Saint Pauls Pinot Nero is one of those wines.

Pinot Nero is Italian for Pinot Noir.  This Pinot comes from northeastern Italy's Südtirol/Alto Adige DOC region.  St. Pauls "Exclusiv" Pinot is from the '02 vintage, which wasn't the greatest (to put it euphemistically) for many of Italy's vinos.  This one somehow came out quite well, if not a little too funky for some palettes.

The Skinny
St. Pauls Exclusiv Pinot Nero "Luziafeld" '02 ($20-ish)

• From Südtirol/Alto Adige DOC
• Very light, shiny ruby in color with a distinct coral rim
• Scents of dried cherry, earth, hay (funk), and eucalyptus
• Light-bodied in the mouth - but with structure:  narrow tannins, high acidity, and a lot of alcohol (13.5%).  Yet it all works.  Fairly simple flavors, with a moderately long finish

***.5 (3.5 stars out of 5)

This little jewel will definitely snazz up an otherwise bland meal like this one.

Comments

[thecaveman]

I'M all for the Adige... if you can get one, try the Krafus from Alois Lagader...does a very sexy Pinot Blanc as well...
caveman

[beau]

I've tried A. Lageder's Lagrein before and thought it was interesting. I'll add his Pinots to my list.
thanks for the headsup.

beau

[Steve B]

Hey Beau, thanks for the comments about the Pinot Nero. (I am the importer) It is admittedly an oddball but, as you found, quite charming, as long as you are not expecting New World...San Paolo's Lagrein is also terrific and they do exceptionally well with Pinot Bianco. Their "Exclusiv" Pinot Bianco is definitely not "blank" - Who are you anyway - and where are you that you are getting to taste these wines? I just stumbled upon this blog but would love to know where it comes from...