Character > SuperBigFruit

Over the past few months I've been sampling 'new' Spanish wine.  By 'new' I mean wine from lesser known Denominaciones that is made in the New World Style (big, bold, fruity).  Much of it has been veryberry Garnacha like Las Rocas from Calatayud.  However, in the midst of all this fruitiness, I stumbled upon Bodega Pirineos in the DO Somontano of Northeastern Spain.  I've concluded that:

Character > SuperBigFruit

Yes, Bodega Pirineos Moristel offers a bushel of red berries.  But it also offers scents of red grapefruit,  an earthy/funky character, and vibrant acidity.  So, instead of being a one-trick pony, this Moristel-based wine is multi-layered/multi-dimensional.  All this for about $10.    Hooray.

The Skinny
Bodega Pirineos Moristel, '02 ($ ten-damn-dollars)

• From Somontano - NE Spain
• 100% Moristel (a native grape variety)
• Ruby colored with some inky undertones
• Take a whiff:  red berries, red grapefruit, earth, spice
• Flavors of tart red fruit draped over black berry and pepper.  Quite crisp, medium-bodied with fairly subtle tannins and a semi-creamy finish

**** (4 stars out of 5)

This wine is built for food.  Try it with roasted chicken, pizza Margherita, Manchego cheese, or most anything off the grill.