The Odeon, NYC
(editor's note -- cross-posted at jZepp, the global group blog for food, drink, art, and culture. Come blog with us today.)
By the WG, New York City
Picture this: You ask for the wine list at a fine restaurant, and the waiter returns with a leather-bound novel, sometimes containing multiple volumes, detailing the overwhelming selection. You flip through the multiple pages of Bordeaux vintages and Chianti producers while trying to decide what you’re ordering for dinner. Ten stares from the waiter and twenty minutes later, you finally digest the list, but by this time, you’re hungry, cranky, and unable to make a rational decision. You end up picking a crappy-smelling red Burgundy that sets you back $90, but you drink the bottle to ease the pain of financial loss, and you go home a poor, unhappy camper. Why must choosing a wine be so difficult?
Sometimes
simple is best - a simple wine list, but with more options than just
California Chardonnay and Australian Shiraz. This is where The Odeon, one of my favorite New York City restaurants, gets a gold star. Located in Tribeca,
far from the tourist traps of midtown, this funky French bistro has
been around for 25 years and is clearly doing something right! The
place has a cool retro vibe, a trendy yet unpretentious crowd, and
simply fantastic food. But the true prize is the wine list: relatively
short and sweet, yet most diverse, you can find everything you need and
more. Unique selections by both the glass and bottle are strong in
French origin, but also hail from different regions around the globe.
You can experiment with 21 still wines and 4 bubblies by the glass,
with such interesting choices as an Irsai Oliver from Hungary and a Chenin Blanc from Chinon...
Chenin from Chinon? I admit, I thought it was a typo when I saw “Chinon Blanc” on the wine list. But then I realized it was actually a white Chinon from the Loire Valley, which is made from the chenin blanc grape. How’s that for visual confusion! I had never tasted a white Chinon before since it’s pretty rare (only about 1% of production), so I decided to give it a shot. This was the 2003 Chateau de Ligre Chinon Blanc, and it was a little dull on the nose and somewhat unintriguing. Crisp and light on the palate, it was pleasant, but a little boring for what chenin is capable of, and a little ho-hum for the price ($9.50/glass). If anyone has a good Chinon Blanc to recommend, please tell me! Until then, I think I’ll stick with Vouvray.
The Irsai Oliver, on the other hand, blew me away. This was the 2004 Nyakas Cellars Monarchia Olivier from the Buda-Etyek
region of Hungary. Made from 100% Irsai Oliver, this super-find was
aromatic like a muscat, jumping out of the glass with loads of floral
and enticing exotic spice. Dry and full-bodied, it had a good dose of
acidity to keep it crisp and food-friendly. And at only $8/glass, quite
a treat!
So the bottom line: it’s cool to have the opportunity to try unusual wines by the glass, whether you end up loving them or not. And it’s cool to see a bottle list that presents a wide array of options while being completely manageable and easy-to-navigate. Cheers to The Odeon for providing both! And cheers to another 25 years!
More info on Monarchia:
http://www.monarchiamatt.com/trade.html
Posted by: beau | 03 August 2005 at 10:23 AM
I read your article of the dissapointing white Chinon experience.....Here is my recommendation
Beatrice et Lambert Chinon Blanc, Les Chesnaise 2002.
Imported by JF Imports
This should excite you.
Posted by: Susan | 20 January 2007 at 12:15 PM
Just yesterday I discovered my first Chinon Blanc ;-), which led to to a search, finding this post... my suggestion:
2005 Les Chanteaux from Couly-Dutheil
Wow, what a delightful wine. $30 from a restaurant list here in SF. just killer. honey notes, crisp refreshing acidity, a well textured mouthfeel. if you find it, try it! I bet you won't be disapointed.
Posted by: cd | 17 September 2007 at 02:41 PM