Tohu Pinot Noir

2004 Tohu Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand ($24)

Clear, light ruby color fading to a pale, watery rim. Vivacious aromas spring from the glass: red cherries, raspberries, toasted pecans, some vanilla, even some forest floor. You might guess young Burgundy, but definitely not California. Palate is dry with bright, attractive flavors like the nose. But the star of the show here is the mouth-watering acidity – enough to make your spine tingle (think fresh lemonade) and keep you begging for more. Low tannin, medium alcohol and a silky texture give way to a long fruity finish, with a slight phenolic kick at the end (my least favorite part). Overall, a delicious and refreshing wine to waken the senses. You will not fall asleep drinking this one. Gotta love it.

--WG