S is for Savagnin

T was for Traminer, which, some say, is the progenitor to the better known, though less-easily pronounceable grape, Gewürztraminer.

Well, Pierre Galet, he of grape taxonomy fame, maintains that the Savagnin grape of the Jura (eastern France) is identical to Traminer.  He also asserts that Gewürztraminer is simply the pink-skinned mutant clone of Savagnin.

So who cares about Savagnin?  Savagnin is the grape used by Jura Vignerons to produce one of the world's oddest wines - Vin Jaune.  Sadly, I have yet to sample a funky Jaune; although it appears to be somehow reminiscent of Fino Sherry.  The Caveman describes Vin Jaune thusly:

"It is hard to think of the Jura without a mention of Vin Jaune, or ‘yellow wine.’ Made in it’s entirety with the local Savignan grape (a distant relative of the Traminer family), it is aged in old 60 gallon open casks in similar fashion to that of fino sherries, allowing a film forming yeast to develop on the surface. And there it rests for 6 years and 3 months until bottling. The result is a wine with a phenomenal richness, nuttiness and spiciness that accompanies a variety of strong cheeses and the classic vin jaune chicken."

It's also worth noting that Arbois, the Jura's main appellation, offers 'Vin Jaune for beginners' or 'Vin Jaune-light'.  Again, from The Caveman:

"Arbois 2000, Béthanie, Fruitière Vinicole d’Arbois
A good way to enter the world of the Savignan is with this Arbois. Composed of 60% Savignan (aged for 3 years under the film) and 40% Chardonnay, it has the distinctive nuttiness of the vin jaune but with an added touch of browning apples, lemon and vanilla. Serve it at 15 degrees Celcius (around 60F) so as to bring out as much of the richness, spice and nuts that it has to offer. Any cooler, and the oxidized flavors are too strong and the wine becomes way too acidic. It will work wonders with terrines, chicken and with a strong, ripe cheese like Raclette. We serve it at L’eau with a fondue of Victor and Berthold Reserve, laced with cumin and nut bread as the dipper, a phenomenal mix and one which very few wines can handle. My first bottle took me a week to drink but I am now a convert.... So take your time, open your mind and mouth, and discover an extraordinary style of winemaking."

Some wine lovers turn up their nose at difficult-to-approach styles like Retsina or Sherry.  Vin Jaune certainly falls into the category of "takes time to love."  If/when you get the chance to sample such wine oddities, jump at it.  For variety is indeed the spice of life.