The Lil Bastard
No, I'm not referring to "Bastardo," my favorite Portuguese grape-name. I'm referring to what Lady Jancis calls, "the great success story of modern German vine breeding" (Oxford Wine Companion, 2nd ed.). Kerner was bred in 1969 after such successful (both semi- and un-) German corossings as Scheurebe, Huxelrebe and Faber. It was born in Württemberg, Germany from a red grape papa (Schiava) and Riesling. Rather than being named Riesava or Schiesling, it was named 'Kerner' after a local songwriter renowned for his drinking songs.
"Neunundneunzig Flaschen voller Wein auf der Wand..."
The Skinny
Abbazia di Novacella (Stiftskellerei Neustift) Kerner "Valle Isarco" 2004 ($19) [get it from one of these retailers]
- From Italy's Alto Adige region
- 100% Kerner
- Very pale white gold in color
- Fresh fruit scents of white peach & pear. There also seems to be some apple cider notes as well
- Lush, fresh flavors of nectarines with a little citrus zip. Simple, yet quite pleasant and drinkable. Overall, I would say this wine tastes something like a young, chubby Riesling. It is indeed hefty, but possesses plenty o' acid to balance everything out
*** (3 stars out of 5)
This is a perfectly fine wine; although at twenty dollars, I think it's slightly overpriced. For twelve - fifteen bucks, I would buy several bottles. I might just buy another bottle anyway to see how the lil bastard ages.
Try it with one of Stephen's Brussels Sprouts creations or with Andrew's ham-enhanced sprout-nut dish. The fruit flavors and heft are great foils to the nutty-bitter-spicy quality of the sprouts.
Do buy another bottle and sit on it for 6-8 years, if you think there's enough fruit. Sounds like there's enough acids. I bet it will show more complexity with age.
Posted by: Jack | 04 December 2005 at 09:59 PM