Basic Juice - the wine blog for my generation

Erbaluce & SMG: Marriage Counselors

My significant other and I have a problem.  Our palates are incompatible.

I like crisp, delicate white wines.  She likes reds.

I appreciate nuanced red wines.  She likes big reds.

I'm wowed by unique wines with uncommon characteristics.  She likes really big reds.

Can this marriage be saved?

Thanks to the 1-2, Friday-Saturday punch of Orsolani's (imported by Bonny Doon) Erbaluce and Guardian Peak SMG, I am happy to report that our palates have kissed and made out up.  Marital bliss has returned.  For now.

My palate's turn
It all began Friday evening.  I crouched down and peered into the wine fridge, longing for a white with zing and minerality.  I couldn't grab the object of my desire - a bottle of Il Circo "La Funambola" Erbaluce di Caluso (2004, $18).  I knew that if the missus caught me selecting a wimpy white wine for our Friday happy hour, she would veto the decision immediately.  So I got smart and created a diversion:  "Hey, Honey.  Isn't that a stray bottle of Staglin Cabernet over there under the coffee table?"  In 0.02 seconds, I had popped the cork and poured two glasses of La Funambola.  She returned to the kitchen and frowned upon seeing a glass of white wine waiting for her.  Again, I went for distraction: "You know, this is a pretty interesting wine.  It's an obscure white grape from Italy's Piedmont."  The frown was now joined by a piercing glare.  "Oooh.  Look at the label.  It's pretty cool - isn't it."  At this point, I realized she was having none of it.  We compromised.  We would go with Erbaluce on Friday and a wine of her choosing on Saturday.  My palate quaked in fear at the impending assault by a big fat red.

To my surprise, she enjoyed (or at least faked very well) the Erbaluce. La Funambola offers scents of lemon zest, white pear, along with intriguing herbal notes.  And, of course, it possesses minerality of the 'mineral water' variety.  In the mouth, this wine is fresh and crisp.  Yet this youthful Erbaluce also drapes the tongue in rich flavors of Golden Delicious apple and Bartlett Pear.  This was what appealed to m'lady's palate.  My only regret is that I don't have a second bottle stashed away, taking a three-year snooze.  I'm quite curious to see how Erbaluce would evolve over a few years.

Her palate's turn 

Eniw Gnitsat

I became impatient waiting for my decongestant to take effect.  Plus I was hungry, so I decided to taste this South African Meritage backwards.  Behold the reversed tasting note.

Food pairing: Spicy thin crust pizza - There was not enough acidity to compliment the food.  Something less spicy would work better - perhaps roasted meat or a beef stew would work better.

*** (3 stars out of 5)

• A hybrid of new world fruit and old school earth.  Ripe red plums, black cherry and vanilla to start; giving way to smoke, earth and leather. Gentle, rounded tannins come into play in the mid-palate. I enjoyed the flavor but the finish was slightly flabby - a bit alcoholic without enough acidity
• Scents of sweet spice, Blackberries and blackcurrants; coupled to smoke and leather notes
• Black cherry-red fading to ruby red and a distinct caramel-garnet rim
• 14.5% alcohol
• 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 41% Merlot, 4% Malbec, 3% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petite Verdot
• From the Paarl region of South Africa

Glen Carlou Grand Classique 2002 Meritage ($16)
The Skinny

Sipping before sniffing is an odd experience (especially if you, like me, have a very specific tasting ritual).  Upon taking my first sip, I did not expect to enjoy the wine.  After the food, I spent more time tasting & sniffing.  This extra face time greatly improved my opinion of Carlou's Meritage (pronounced mer-it-age, not mer-it-azhh). 

I don't recommend tasting before sniffing.  It's discombobulating.

Player's Pavillion

Boschendal wine estate, founded by golfer Gary Player, finds itself in an idyllic south African location.  It's northeast of Stellenbosch; south of Paarl.

I was pleasantly surprised by Boschendal's "Le Pavillion" Chardonnay-Semillion, 2004 ($9).  In my estimation, this is the perfect under-ten-dollar wine:  fresh, crisp, and food-friendly & flexible.

The Skinny
Boschendal "Le Pavillion" Chardonnay-Semillion, 2004 ($9)

• 80% Chardonnay & 20% Semillon; from South Africa's Boschendal valley
• Lemon-gold color
• Zesty mineral scents along with tart apples & citrus
• Very simple and refreshing in the mouth.  Light-bodied with tart flavors

***.5 (3.5 stars out of 5)

An easy going, well-made value-priced wine

Boschendal, Fore!

Boschendal wine estate, founded by golfer Gary Player, finds itself in an idyllic south African location.  It's northeast of Stellenbosch; south of Paarl.

I was pleasantly surprised by Boschendal's "Le Pavillion" Chardonnay-Semillion, 2004 ($9).  In my estimation, this is the perfect under-ten-dollar wine:  fresh, crisp, and food-friendly & flexible.

The Skinny
Boschendal "Le Pavillion" Chardonnay-Semillion, 2004 ($9)

• 80% Chardonnay & 20% Semillon; from South Africa's Boschendal valley
• Lemon-gold color
• Zesty mineral scents along with tart apples & citrus
• Very simple and refreshing in the mouth.  Light-bodied with tart flavors

***.5 (3.5 stars out of 5)

An easy going, well-made value-priced wine

Thelema Sauvignon Blanc

2002 Thelema Sauvignon Blanc ($14)
Clear, pale lemon fading to a pale watery rim. Clean, youthful, pronounced nose of a vegetal and mineral fruit character.  Dry, with crisp acidity. Medium-bodied, with a pronounced palate of green pepper, gooseberries, citrus peel and wet stone.  Medium alcohol with medium-long length.  Good quality sauvignon blanc from the Stellenbosch region. Drinks well now, but could develop complexity with another 2-3 years in bottle.

4 Syraz/3 Takes/1 'Ick!'

Generally speaking, when I hear the word, "Syrah," I think of more restrained, old world wine like this.  And When I hear "Shiraz," I think of big, exuberant new world wine like this.  Yet, a recent tasting has completely blurred my perceptions of Syrah/Shiraz.  Perhaps a wine should be referred to as, "Syraz," until after one has tasted it and made the call...

4 Syraz

1. Annie's Lane Clare Valley (Aus) Shiraz, '02
2. Liberty School California Syrah, '00
3. Rust en Vrede Stellenbosch (S.A.) Shiraz, '01
4. EXP Dunnigan Hills (Cali.) Syrah, '02

3 Takes

1. Annie's Lane ($13) - Deep black cherry in color with a distinct pink/red rim; nearly opaque.  Amazingly restrained for an Australian Shiraz (at least per my past Aussie Shiraz experiences). Red & black berries, plums, black pepper, slightly woody, with just a hint of "Aussie Tar" (What I call the unmistakable scent of most baked fruity, nearly burnt Aussie Shiraz).  Well-balanced and quite good with pan-seared steak.  *** (3 stars out of 5).  Verdict:  More Syrah than Shiraz

Past its Prime? II

I've been hitting the wine shop's bargain bin lately in an attempt to discover how value-priced wine ages.  Thus far I'm two for two in pleasant experiences/discoveries.

The latest candidate is from South Africa.  It's Migration Pinotage, 2001, priced at ten bucks.

Pinotage is a pretty gnarly grape.  To some it's interesting.  To others it's a next door neighbor to Brussels Sprouts.  I happen to like a wine that throws scent & flavor curve-balls.

The Skinny
Migration Pinotage, '01 ($10)

• Grapes 'migrated' and mixed from several regions:  Paarl, Stellenbosch, and Swartland
• Deep purple in color with a thin, pink rim
• Funk, funk, and more funk: scents of bacon, cedar, cigar, blackberry, and pepper
• Medium-body with a distinctive flavor, and lasting finish.  The flavors, while unique, are not overpowering

***.5 (3.5 stars out of 5)

I gave this wine an extra 1/2-star because it offers something that most ten-dollar wines can't: ultra unique character.  Try it with the gamiest of gamey dishes.  It was dandy with my favorite delivery pizza (the Mt. Wolverine).

WBW#6: Vansha asks for your patience

Jeanne of Cook Sister! is hosting this month's Wine Blogging Wednesday.  And the theme is South African Wines.  I've reviewed/written about a few South African wines before:

• Fairview 'Goat Roti' '02
• Fairview 'Goats do Roam' White '02
• Brampton Unoaked Chardonnay, '01

I was curious to try Vansha, by Ridgeback Wines.  It's a blend of 70% Cinsault (one of the genetic parents of S.A.'s very own Pinotage grape), 25% Cab. Sauv., and 5% Shiraz.

The Skinny
Ridgeback Wines 'Vansha' Dry Red, '03 ($8)

• From the Paarl region of South Africa
• Maroon in color with a thin, rusty-colored rim
• Meaty/funky scents along with caramel, black fruit, and dates
• An odd mouthfeel - nothing in the front of the mouth.  Slight tannins along the sides and a fairly long finish in the rear of the mouth.  A little out-of-balance:  High alcohol without enough acidity to counter-balance

My first impression of this wine was not terribly good.  However, I remembered that
Cinsault (in my humble opinion) needs a little extra breathing time before being sipped.  So after another 20 minutes or so I sampled the wine again.  This time, I was able to appreciate its unique scents and simple, drinkable flavors.
*** (3 stars out of 5)

Of course if you've never tried South Africa's very own grape, Pinotage, I suggest you try Fairview Pinotage.  It's truly an original.

Cinsault x Pinot Noir = Pinotage

Pinotage is South Africa's claim to wine-fame.  The Pinotage Association of South Africa describe the creation of this grape in an oddly romantic way:

"We know what Abraham Izak Perold did. He physically brushed a male Hermitage (Cinsaut) flower against a pollen donor Pinot Noir (also described as the Prince of
French varietals.)"

Just a little flower & pollen brushing and voila!  Pinotage.

Unfortunately Pinotage hasn't lived up to the noble status of its Pinot Noir parent.  Wine drinkers and critics alike use terms like 'rustic,' 'diesel,' 'ashtray' and 'acquired taste' to describe wines made from Pinotage.

Some Pinotage wines deserve these descriptors.  Others, like Fairview's Pinotage deserve your attention.

The Skinny
Fairview Pinotage, '02 ($12)
Deep inky indigo in color
Fairly restrained scents of dark berries, cedar and a little smoke
In the mouth it's medium-bodied, with noticeable tannin and surprisingly fruity flavors
*** (3 stars out of 5)

Try it with grilled porterhouse steak, portobella mushrooms and smashed potatoes

Brampton Chardonnay/no oak

Brampton Unoaked Chardonnay - just released, the 2004 vintage (which I haven't tasted yet).

Perhaps your impression of Chardonnay is a full-bodied wine with rich vanilla scents. Try this wine – it will change your Chardonnay opinion. It is full of citrus, peach and non-oak spiciness.  This is quite a crisp Chardonnay, which makes it more affable with food than the typical flabby ten-buck Chardonnay

My tasting note from the 2001 vinage:

Brampton Unoaked Chardonnay
South Africa, 2001, $10
Medium gold in color
Fresh, crisp scents of orange and pear, with some sweet pepper lurking
Medium-bodied; well balanced, with noticeable acidity.
Try with stir-fried veggies, roast chicken, pork tenderloin
**** (4 Stars out of 5)